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Old 08-19-2021, 02:35 PM   #21
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I would ask myself - do I want to be a boater or do I want a larger project?
Exactly. "As is, where is," especially after a decade on the hard, means they aren't selling a boat - they're selling a project. You might eventually turn it into a boat.

A preliminary "dry" survey might be worth considering. Sounds unlikely the seller is prepared to play the usual back-and-forth game about repairs and price concessions, but having a pair of professional eyes on the thing might at least help you reason through what can be seen that needs doing, and better inform your thinking about how much to pay.
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Old 08-19-2021, 02:58 PM   #22
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Is the marina selling it, the owner, or are you thinking of making an offer out of the blue ? Figure 10 years of storage fees. The marina would like to get something for it sitting there. No telling if the storage is paid up. The owner would probably like to let it go to get out of paying and not using.
As is/where is/not running/no history... $5000 tops. But it does have potential. Of course the big question is the engine. And if it was winterized or stored properly I wouldn't worry too much about it. Try and check for antifreeze both in the engine and the raw water side. Sure it will need some work. Filters and impellors for certain, maybe seals. If the marina is selling and can help get it running add something extra to the price. Figure everything else will need to be replaced and that will cost real money but the engine will be the biggest chunk at 1 time.
For something like this it's more about what somebody will take to get rid of it, or to get a paying storage, than what it's worth.
Let us know. We love these kind of stories !! And to share the misery !
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Old 08-19-2021, 08:13 PM   #23
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Absolutely i will share.. still working on a full inspection of everywhere on the boat.
I was thinking somewhere around 5K or less. I do have a few questions on inspecting the engine. I want to make sure it did not freeze so is there best places to look for cracks or areas of concern? Hopefully i can see inside soon.
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Old 08-19-2021, 08:53 PM   #24
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Absolutely i will share.. still working on a full inspection of everywhere on the boat.
I was thinking somewhere around 5K or less. I do have a few questions on inspecting the engine. I want to make sure it did not freeze so is there best places to look for cracks or areas of concern? Hopefully i can see inside soon.
I think your 5k offer or less is more realistic than some of the other amounts suggested.... Good luck, don't over pay.
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Old 08-20-2021, 08:05 PM   #25
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Absolutely i will share.. still working on a full I do have a few questions on inspecting the engine. I want to make sure it did not freeze so is there best places to look for cracks or areas of concern? Hopefully i can see inside soon.
Look and smell. Look in the bilge for antifreeze or diesel. Probably be some water there. Antifreeze is red or green usually. Diesel in Md. anyway is red. If you see or smell diesel it could be the fuel tanks are bad and leaking. Haven't heard of that being a problem in a Mainship. Take the coolant fill off and look and smell for antifreeze in there. Not much you can do on the raw water side w/o taking hoses off. Check the oil. Even with a recent change the oil will be black, your looking for it being way over the fill mark ( water leaking in ) or brown and sludgy.
If the boat was shrink-wrapped the engine was 'probably' winterized too. No way to tell for sure until it runs.
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Old 08-20-2021, 10:57 PM   #26
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Give the owner your number and have him call you when he's ready to give it away for free. The pressure is on him to get out from under it, and you don't need it now.....wait him out. You still might be overpaying if he gives it to you. You aren't getting a boat. You are getting the opportunity to invest hundreds of hours of labor and tens of thousands of dollars to get a boat that might be worth $20-30K.

Here's a newer boat in running condition for $25k.

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/198...awler-3836660/

Take all the hours that you would have to put into this boat and get a second job. Save that money and buy a boat that you know the history of. Between getting the engine operational, leaky fuel tanks, spongy decks, rodent eaten wiring, dead batteries, moldy carpet, liens from the marina, new electronics and insurance issues...you'll be signing a blank check if you take ownership of this thing, since you have no idea of the extent of the rehab required.
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Old 08-21-2021, 04:55 PM   #27
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Well i do agree that going for a boat in better shape makes sense but I do enjoy restoration projects as long as in the long run it is worth it.
If i could get the boat for a low price and rebuild it myself i also will know the areas of concern. Maybe i am off but i estimate it will be somewhere around 5-10k in parts to bring it back to at least 90% and with that ballpark of 200 hours. In the end i will still have a 42 year old boat that may be worth around 25-30k, Maybe more but realistic. If i didn't have a son in collage i may have more funds for my toys but currently i can afford to trickle in to a project better than buying someone elses handy work.
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Old 08-21-2021, 06:15 PM   #28
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Well i do agree that going for a boat in better shape makes sense but I do enjoy restoration projects as long as in the long run it is worth it.
If i could get the boat for a low price and rebuild it myself i also will know the areas of concern. Maybe i am off but i estimate it will be somewhere around 5-10k in parts to bring it back to at least 90% and with that ballpark of 200 hours. In the end i will still have a 42 year old boat that may be worth around 25-30k, Maybe more but realistic. If i didn't have a son in collage i may have more funds for my toys but currently i can afford to trickle in to a project better than buying someone elses handy work.
"Maybe i am off but i estimate it will be somewhere around 5-10k in parts to bring it back to at least 90% and with that ballpark of 200 hours"
It would be great to see your list - we have done a 'couple' of these projects and our numbers were multiples of those (hrs and $$).
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Old 08-21-2021, 06:42 PM   #29
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"Maybe i am off but i estimate it will be somewhere around 5-10k in parts to bring it back to at least 90% and with that ballpark of 200 hours"
It would be great to see your list - we have done a 'couple' of these projects and our numbers were multiples of those (hrs and $$).
We bought the materials to rebuild our decks and flybridge floor in 2016,'17 & '18. The 3/4" marine ply, the 5 gallon buckets of resin & Corebond epoxy glue ,the fiberglass & paint was closer to 10k and that was before the price went sky-high. Maintenance cost of the 40 year old Perkins (turbo, riser, exhaust manifold, starter, alternator & water pumps has been $5-6K and thats not counting the work we're having done now replacing the engine seals & other items.
All of this and it was a running ,functioning boat when we bought it. I'm not even factoring in the stuff like electronics and complete rewiring of the electrical systems, portlights etc etc.
I'm not trying to scare the OP but don't be surprised to see 20K disappear in a few years of proper rehab if you want to make it a decent vessel that you can rely on and enjoy.
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Old 08-22-2021, 07:50 PM   #30
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So a bit more of an update.
Until now i have not seen inside the sliding door. The owner is older and in poor health. One if his friends is trying to sell it.
I was able to get inside and it looks like it was properly winterized and the interior is in fairly good condition. The good is that it has a newer engine. It has a Cat 3208 V8 engine. Its the non turbo version with 210HP. The bad is that the boat has been under shrink wrap since ~2002-2003 It has an hour meter on the bridge that reads about 1400hrs
The generator looks original Onan and will likely need work based on appearance. I don't see any signs of mice or other critters inside the boat. I think the engine is around a 1990-1991. So I a little more optimistic with a newer engine. I don't know a lot about Cat Diesels but I assume its a good engine.
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Old 08-22-2021, 08:57 PM   #31
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That's encouraging - the 3208 Cat in the naturally-aspirated version is a good engine. If laid up with any sort of reasonable care, it should come back to life with a happy rumble.
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Old 08-23-2021, 12:44 AM   #32
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Whatever you think the materials will cost will be way low. It will always cost substantially more. In the end will it be worth it, who knows. Do you like the boat and do you really really want to do the work, then go for it. I love working on my boats, on #24 now, but I am gradually wearing down due to older age.

The 3208 are good engines when not turboed and aftercooled. But you may spend a small fortune getting it back in shape after that long of a layup.

The older 34’ Mainships are a neat boat, almost bought one a couple of different times but other boats popped up and made me go a different direction. Good luck and have fun if you get it.
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Old 08-23-2021, 02:50 PM   #33
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A true hole in the water in which you pour money.
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Old 08-24-2021, 05:44 AM   #34
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I can understand why you are continuing to give this consideration, I would also be thinking of going for it.

Can't say I haven't driven through boatyards wondering how much I could buy that boat for that has obviously been shrink wrapped for a few years.
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Old 08-24-2021, 07:16 AM   #35
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Well I have seen it for at least 4 years under cover while I was working on my dads boat but my dad sold his boat and we heard that they are considering selling. I don't think it's a total money pit but will require some significant work.
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Old 08-24-2021, 07:58 AM   #36
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Well I have seen it for at least 4 years under cover while I was working on my dads boat but my dad sold his boat and we heard that they are considering selling. I don't think it's a total money pit but will require some significant work.
I have seen these types of posts on various boating sites for well over 20 years now. They have so much in common that they appear to be all the same after a while. You are getting very good advice here and it would be best if you could build a list of 'all' the items you would want to attend to with the most accurate numbers for costs and time which you can attain - best to get quotes or at least copy down parts/vendor sources with numbers and details.
If your thoughts are that you can defray the costs of a boat by adding in sweat equity please make the list comprehensive.
If your thoughts are that you can picture yourself boating within a year please reconsider your goals.
If your thoughts are that you will not be missing large amounts of time seperated from family and friends while working on this project revisit your list and your skill sets.
We have likely done most all of the tasks on your future lists and can attest to the fact that they take much longer than you think and cost much more than you have currently budgeted.
Good luck
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Old 08-24-2021, 02:22 PM   #37
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Well my short list is clean all the diesel fuel systems. Cap thru engine. All belts, oil and filters, coolant. Pumps, both raw and closed system. Heat exchanger and thermostat. Check manifolds. Risers, check exhaust, check stuffing box, new batterys. The Onan full gasket and seals. Pump oil etc. The boat water system looks clean but needs checking. The electric system looks in tact and likely works. The bridge may need some new gauges. As for electronics... will need updates. The decks do not have any soft spots I have found so maybe it is dry. There is alot of cleaning and polishing needed but the gel coat looks really pretty good.
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Old 08-24-2021, 06:49 PM   #38
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Well my short list is clean all the diesel fuel systems. Cap thru engine. All belts, oil and filters, coolant. Pumps, both raw and closed system. Heat exchanger and thermostat. Check manifolds. Risers, check exhaust, check stuffing box, new batterys. The Onan full gasket and seals. Pump oil etc. The boat water system looks clean but needs checking. The electric system looks in tact and likely works. The bridge may need some new gauges. As for electronics... will need updates. The decks do not have any soft spots I have found so maybe it is dry. There is alot of cleaning and polishing needed but the gel coat looks really pretty good.
My sincere best guess is that if you begin to track your invested time now you will be over 10 hours when you get to the point that you have a reasonably complete list of items and reasonable costs. There will be some parts/tasks you will miss and there may be some that you put on the list that will not be required but when you do the best you can you will end up in the right ballpark at least. When you get a full list and have put in enough research to have reasonable pricing you can add it up and see where you are at.
Without too much thought at all I can say you might want to include things like: fuel condition, fuel tank(s) condition, bottom job, canvas, a full enough set of electronics for safety, a couple of dozen items for the main , similar couple of dozen for genset, trans list, cutlass, shafting , prop, head and waste system, all thru hulls, tabs, etc.
Making the list itself will help to indicate the total time, skills, and funds that will be required over the project.
Please do not purchase it and then afterwards try and figure out how & when you are going to research and fix these things.
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Old 08-24-2021, 06:56 PM   #39
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Example only - here is one of our old lists for inspecting main engines that ran (no CAT engines) as one example only - if the engine needs work on any of these items we would post in to an excell list and add $$ and time to the section 'main engine'.



Fill in engine serial number, in each section below ask what is new/serviced

Harmonic balancer
 integrity
 leaks

Raw water pump
 leaks
 hoses

water separators
 on engine
 on Racors if equipped

Oil cap and cover
 inspection inside w/mirror
 wipe underside of valve cover w/finger

Coolant cap & tank
 leaks
 overflow bottle sediment
 wipe X-changer bundle through cap, check for mud

Oil pan
 corrosion
 where the oil change tube goes

Manicooler
 original
 leaks
 condition of paint where the runners meet the head

Glow plug circuit
 Full cycle time
 no signs of corrosion

Wiring
 integrity
 all gages/alarms work

Bolts fasteners
 note which have been removed
 injectors
 heads
 manicooler
 other

Injection pump
 Any crimp caps compromised
 leaks
 corrosion

Intercoolers
 inspection port residue
 leaks
 hoses
 Air side hoses and leaks

Turbo
 inspection of radial play
 oil leak behind compressor wheel
 Boost if available
 How much paint is on at manicooler/turbo interface
 leak near coolant return line (hard line top)
 Leak near oil return (bottom)

Exhaust elbow
 Cast Iron/ other
 If cast, one piece or two (one is better and newer version)
 check at packing hose tube outlet
 Check drain fitting

Transmission
 write down number and ratio
 pull stick and wipe on pure white paper towel
 pull filter and look on inside for particles
 note age condition of coolers
 note if coolers are zinc equipped

Engine mounts
 condition of all 4 static
 angle of 4
 condition of motor mount brackets and affixing to stringers
 check mounts again under way (use caution)

 shafts/packing
 type
 condition
 alignment under way (take a short motion pic if possible)
 is salt spray being ingested
 any signs of scoring on shafts


Try and take good digital pictures of any and all the items you are interested in because even if you are not sure of something you may be able to post them later in and someone will hopefully be able to help. We would also take pictures of the engine gages on cold engine, running engine, and warm engine at idle for future reference since it was faster and clearer then writing it down.
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Old 08-24-2021, 07:17 PM   #40
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I must say that the help i am getting here is spectacular.
I did see many good points on the checklist that really makes sense.
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