Cruising Upstream on the Mississippi

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Xenophon1

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I've done about half of the Great Loop by bringing my Lagoon43PC from Vermont to Tampa when we relocated to Florida. I'd like to complete the Loop by returning to VT by the Mississippi. I'm "semi-retired" and presently considering all options -- overall time spent traveling; a single trip vs a multi staged trip; time of year to travel; routes -- ? Tennessee vs Mississippi; ? Great Lakes travel, etc. My boat has a draw of 4 ft, a beam of 22 ft, and a height of 17 ft and cruises at 12 to 18 knots depending on the conditions. Any suggestions from cruisers who have done the upstream trip would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
Thanks for the referral! I left Mobile Feb 1 2022 and was in Chicago early April. Am on the Illinois River now heading south.

Your boat dimensions shouldn't present any problems. The only way through the lakes for you will be the Welland Canal, which means entering Canada.

You're only on the Missippi for a couple of hundred miles on the common route. High water can be a challenge in the spring, mostly on that section.
 
Mississippi Upstream Cruising

Thanks for the info Jeff! I'll have to check out your blog. Did you spend much time ashore or were you on the water every day?
 
Why would you not go up the Alabama River? The most dangerous part of any trip is crossing or on the Mississippi. Very few if any places to hide. In the New Orleans area it is a security controlled area, no landings. No one can rescue you or bring parts.

Couple that with ballast dumping and trash in the water and it's just crazy. During flood stage it can really be moving.

It would be an adventure, but not one I would make if there were any other options.
 
Did you spend much time ashore or were you on the water every day?

Very little time ashore on that trip. There aren't a lot of shoreside destinations. But it doesn't have to take two months. I did > 1000 miles of side trips on the Tennessee and Black Warrior Rivers.

As Choices says, you probably don't want to go up the Lower Mississippi.
 
I have run a 36-foot Grand Banks up the rivers (cruising speed around 8 knots) from Gulf Shores, Alabama to Michigan City, Indiana on Lake Michigan.

All I have to say about the trip is contained in my Cruisin' Through blg. If you will start here on 14 May 2017 you can read the daily account.

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/1067193992195184331/2779309866959973493


Your cruising speed sounds good to me for conquering the 215 miles on the Mississippi from near Cairo to Grafton. If you read the blog, you will see how difficult it was in a slow boat. However, there are many places in the river system where it would not be prudent to cruise above hull speed.
 
Tenn Tom

We routinely cruise to Tennessee River from Florida Panhandle for hurricane season each year. We are a 58' KKY with 5.5 foot draft, 19' beam, and 30' air draft. Your vessel definitely isn't an issue up to the Tennessee nor the rest of the way around. Plenty of cats do this trip.

You can go as fast or as slow as you want. We cruise at 8 knots and can make Pensacola, FL to Florence, AL in seven days in the spring time (with plenty of sunlight). Not much to see or do on this stretch until you get above Demopolis, AL. We anchor most of the way up and down ... just easier to drop the anchor. Certainly at your speeds you could make a marina each night. The only caveat being you do not get held up at one of the locks ... Tenn Tom is usually better than Tennessee but we have waited as long as four (4) hours to get locked through.

As others have said ... you do need to be concerned re currents in the spring and plan when river stages are low / acceptable. Debris is also an issue ... we have damaged stabilizers more than once from submerged logs. Worse when river is flowing obviously.

PM me if you want to discuss further ... I also have a pretty good reference sheet of marinas, bridges, locks, and anchorages.

Gary
M/V Unwinding
58EB KKY
 
I have traveled DOWN the Mississippi many times and I have one major rule - the planned river levels must have been falling for a couple of days before starting out and be forecasted to continue falling.
It only takes a couple of feet rise to start bringing in debris from the river banks, deposited there the last time the river fell.
The attached photo shows the issue.
Heading upstream will add the current velocity of any log, so extreme care must be taken.
Riverwatch Mississippi will give you a good river level forecast.
 

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I was going to go north to Chicago last spring but decided against it. I did not realize that you need an earlier start than what is comfortable. I talked to a few old salt Mississippi Tow Boat captains about the trip. The told me if I wanted to miss the floods I should have left New Orleans around the end of February and been off the Mississippi onto the Illinois by April 1. After that the snow melt brings the Mississippi river up quite a bit. They said I could take my time on the Illinois but needed to be through the locks by June 1 last year.
I was set to leave April 1 and went east as a result of missing the window.
 
Last spring, we went from Demopolis, AL to Muskegon, MI. This trip tested me to the most of life physically, emotionally and spiritually. We were challenged with mechanical problems, weather including tornadoes and extreme wind, marinas with no fuel or water. And much more. Maximum speed achieved on the MS was 4.4 MPH. Severe current and debris kept us on our toes constantly. I would do this again however, not in the circumstances we had to work in. As I was told it can be done, it is just how much of a challenge you are able to handle. I am grateful for this trip, I have learned so much about me and my capabilities, which I never knew I had, but found. No wine or sunsets on the entire 38 days of challenges.
 
I’ve cruised in both directions on the Mississippi / Tennessee / Illinois rivers. The Miss. is the most challenging going upstream. My theory for going upstream is: the faster you go, the less you waste fighting current. If current speed is 3 knots, and you do 3 knots SOG (speed over ground), you’re wasting 50% of your fuel burned. If you increase to 6 knots SOG you’re wasting only 33% of fuel burned. Increase more, waste less. Of course, SOG Is limited by your boat’s horsepower.
 
My theory for going upstream is: the faster you go, the less you waste fighting current. If current speed is 3 knots, and you do 3 knots SOG (speed over ground), you’re wasting 50% of your fuel burned. If you increase to 6 knots SOG you’re wasting only 33% of fuel burned. Increase more, waste less. Of course, SOG Is limited by your boat’s horsepower.

I had that theory until I did the math for my boat. When not in a rush on flat water I normally cruise at less than 7 knots and under 1 gph. Increasing speed to 9 knots more than triples my fuel consumption. So for me optimal fuel burn upstream means traveling at about 7.5 knots boat speed. If that translates into 4.5 knots SOG it just means less miles traveled in a day.

I'm not bothered by that, as I've never had a problem finding spots to anchor for the night on the rivers, and i enjoy spending time there. But for those trying to marina hop or just get through it speed matters.
 
From New Orleans going to North of Baton Rouge is an industrial zone like you can not imagine. There is no place to anchor, and legally tie up. Every vessel is bigger than you and most can't stop or do much evading manuvers. Current is roughly 2-2.5 knots. The banks are steep and rock lined. Bulkheads are for tankers. An anchor hooking up could be violent, and it will probably hang. There is a cool 20' whirlpool right off the French quarter.

If you are disabled you would probably be carried into a tandem or triple wide barge tied to a floating bollard, at 2.5 knots.

Alabama River has some beautiful anchorages.
 
Alabama River has some beautiful anchorages.

I've heard that, and was considering a trip up in January. I'm in Memphis now. But I decided to keep heading south. Will get off the MS at Old River or Port Allen and down to Morgan City.
 
Go North a little later in the summer when the current isn't so strong and there is less garbage in the water.

pete
 
Go North a little later in the summer when the current isn't so strong and there is less garbage in the water.

Good advice, but it puts you in Chicago late in the season for the trip east if your destination is the NE.

There are often traveling boats that get up to Paducah or so in the spring then wait until the Mississippi has crested and is on its way back down before tackling that section. But sometimes it can be a long wait.
 
Check out the American Great Loop Cruisers Association. Most years they have boats going north. TennTom or Mississippi is usually the question, even if they start in New Orleans area. Those who go north don't think it a big deal but also don't seem to recommend it as the preferred way.
 
There is a little problem with the second lock (Demopolis) going north on the TennTom being inoperable until at least May.
 
Yes - the lock in Demopolis is closed for repairs until May.
I do the Lower Mississippi southbound each autumn and to avoid the Baton Rouge to New Orleans section, I take the Atchafalaya from Old River lock to Morgan City, then the ICW across to New Orleans. (The Baton Rouge to NO is so twisty, it's only another 65 miles to take the Morgan City route).
Once on the Miss heading north, you'll be fighting the current, which if running fast due to Spring run off, could be 5kts or more.
My main criteria is that the river level must be falling and remain so for the duration of the trip. Why?
This photo illustrates the debris deposited on the banks, the last time the river level fell. It only takes a rise of 2ft or so to start bringing it back into the river. Dodging logs is never fun and could be very dangerous. Any debris will be coming at you at whatever speed the river current is running.
I'm attaching my notes to hopefully assist your planning if you decide to do it.
 

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