I'm glad the manufacturer of my boat didn't skimp and ran 12/3 to my Raritan water heater with the 1250 watt element.
Ted
okay, gauge 10 wire will have less resistance than gauge 14 wire. so yes, you can use gauge 10 wire for the extras wire length and loose the switch as far as I am concerned. also please make sure that your splice the wire in a box for safety.
Help me to understand why I should put the splice in a box if I were to use a glue-impregnated heat shrink butt splice which I could back up with heat shrink tubing. Just trying to learn. I try to do everything correctly. I could run a new wire back to the panel but that would be a LOT of work. Adding a box would not be difficult. Also, I could enclose the splice in an existing raceway. Would this be acceptable rather than a box?
Help me to understand why I should put the splice in a box if I were to use a glue-impregnated heat shrink butt splice which I could back up with heat shrink tubing. Just trying to learn. I try to do everything correctly. I could run a new wire back to the panel but that would be a LOT of work. Adding a box would not be difficult. Also, I could enclose the splice in an existing raceway. Would this be acceptable rather than a box?
Just skimmed ABYC on electrical...not sure a box is required.
May want to hold out till someone with full and current ABYC suggestions can point it out more clearly.
No, not really. This is a tough requirement to live up to.Not sure if butt connectors in wire loom or raceways would count.....sorta meet the requirement....sorta....just as easy to do it rather than guess.
@catalinajack
From ABYC E-11; "AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats"
11.14.4.3 INSTALLATION - AC 11.14.4.3.1 All connections normally carrying current shall be made in enclosures to protect against shock hazards.
@catalinajack
The next para. is:
11.14.4.3.2 Nonmetallic outlet boxes, flush device boxes, and covers shall meet the requirements of UL 514C, Nonmetallic Outlet Boxes, Flush Device Boxes, and Covers.
Not as clear as Federal law but pretty clear that loom, raceways, etc. are not included in the concept of "enclosures".
As I said, it is a hard standard to live up to.
@catalinajack
The next para. is:
11.14.4.3.2 Nonmetallic outlet boxes, flush device boxes, and covers shall meet the requirements of UL 514C, Nonmetallic Outlet Boxes, Flush Device Boxes, and Covers.
Not as clear as Federal law but pretty clear that loom, raceways, etc. are not included in the concept of "enclosures".
As I said, it is a hard standard to live up to.
Agree. Even if you think it's vague, your insurance co may not. If you argue that a raceway is not specifically excluded, then the attys would simply point to the plain meaning of electrical enclosure.
NEMA states "An electrical enclosure is a cabinet or box that protects electrical or electronic equipment and prevents electrical shock"
As others have mentioned, solution is to cover the switchbox, or add a junction box. Why try to find a potential loophole in standards that an insurance might disagree with. You will spend a lot of money trying to win an argument with an insurance co.
+1 to CharlieJ's advice. No advantage in using heavier than 14ga (for 1200 watts @ 120V).
However, in residential installations the wire size is generally chosen based on the size of breaker which supplies the circuit. For me, it makes sense to follow the same practice for marine installations.
Looking at the ABYC table you may still be looking at 14ga for a circuit fed by a 15 amp breaker - depending on the bundling derating, if applicable.
As regards the question of a splice in the run - I personally would avoid the splice. Run a new 14 ga cable all the way and do a professional job! It wont cost you more than 10ga for part of the way. Plus, 14ga is much more flexible and easier to work.
Charlie?
Regards,
Nick