I’ve been painting on and off for decades. Mostly automotive work but have a few complete hull repaints as well as hull repair/blending. It’s been mentioned that original awlgrip (polyester urethane) is really tough, and that is very true. It’s also true that it’s not a repairable finish. In fact, you really shouldn’t hit it with rubbing compound either. Once the surface has been compromised you’ll be a slave to rejex until you paint again. All polyester urethane are this way. But, if you treat them right, you’ll get a good ten years or more where they look as good as the day you put them on. With dark colors, I do a mix of clear and color for the last coats. It really helps lock in the color under a uv resistant surface. The paint reps will say it’s not necessary, but I’ve had spectacular results doing it.
If repairability is an issue for you, then use acrylic urethane. The choices for this are almost endless. I prefer ppg products (very expensive now), but a lot of boat painters I know like the alexseal. Alexseal tends to flow for a really long time though, and can surprise a painter that doesn’t know. If rolling it on the long flow is a plus, but I hate spraying it. The flash times are super long, and you have a lot of time for trash to get into the surface. (Bugs,dust,etc…) but, you can cut and buff the surface to get that out if you want. I just prefer not to have to do that extra work.
If you’re doing a dark color, really consider a clear coat on top. It’ll help with long term uv protection. On small boats I’ve also done base/clear with good result. Just be sure to use a hardened base for best repairability.
Whatever you choose, it’s the prep work that makes a good result. Do a good epoxy prime/seal coat to give a good foundation for whatever follows.
When it comes time to paint my latest boat, I’ll use original awlgrip. This hull has plank lines and those make an easy break if I need to touch up a section.
The toughness of awlgrip is worth the extra hassle to me.