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backinblue

backinblue

Guru
Joined
Jan 29, 2019
Messages
3,937
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Blue Moon
Vessel Make
Mainship Pilot 355
General question to the group. If you were to paint, or re-paint your boat hull, would you choose Awlgrip, Awlcraft, or some other brand and why? Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
Awlgrip. hands down.

Roll only application. Easiest you will find. My first try at painting a boat. Did my 42 sf hull in seafoam green. Looked better than some of the spray jobs in the marina.
go to boatworkstoday.com to see my boat. Look for the video with the green boat.
 

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Greg QS said:
Awlgrip. hands down.

Roll only application. Easiest you will find. My first try at painting a boat. Did my 42 sf hull in seafoam green. Looked better than some of the spray jobs in the marina.
go to boatworkstoday.com to see my boat. Look for the video with the green boat.
Click to expand...

Nice job. I will not be doing the painting myself if that matters for paint choice. Thanks for the reply just the same.
 
I use Brightside EZpoxy, roll and tip. Results are great.

pete
 
I went through the selection process a couple years ago and went with Alexseal. Has a reputation for being more easily repaired than Awlgrip. Awlcraft is apparently a similar paint to Alexseal. For me, zero cost difference, just felt Alexseal was a slightly better product than Awlcraft.

Good luck

Pryor
 
Alexseal is the only way to go for DIY. Check out Boatworks Today website.
 
Results will vary, along with price. If you want perfect, be ready to pay for it. If you are satisfied with less than perfect, your choices are endless, from the $70/qt for Brightside or EZPoxy on up. Likewise the price you pay for someone else to do the work and how much you get them to do, from just a light sanding to a thorough filling, sanding, fairing. Then there are the number of coats you want to put on, whether you want an undercoat,
After all of that, you might get a much better job for a lot more money spent, but you need to evaluate that cost against whether at resale it will actually make any difference.
 
Thanks but again this will be sprayed by a professional
 
Pics shortly after Weebles was professionally sprayed witb Alexseal.

IMG-20210105-WA0027__01__01__01__01.jpgIMG-20210105-WA0022.jpg
 
Greetings,

Mr. B. Did roll and tip with Alexseal. Two different types. One is brush/roller/tip application and the other is spray. Don't know what the difference is but Alexseal has the two products so there must be some. Their faring compound is marvelous. QUITE satisfied.
 
Thanks RT. I'll talk to the pros and see what they recommend, just wondered what experiences/preferences some TF members might have. Assume that it will be professionally done and that I'm not looking for the least expensive, but rather the best solution.
 
Here was what my wooden Grand Banks looked like up close after my rolling and tipping with Awlgrip Snow White. Nobody in any marina this boat visited over many years initially knew the boat was not fiberglass. However, when it came time to touch it up, I had to accept that I would not be able to blend it as can be done with Awlcraft and that at least I could see the patch. The cost to me to do the whole hull myself was 500 dollars (half a boat unit) plus the haulout and blocking. One time many years ago, I had the GB sprayed with Awlgrip AFTER I spent a week sanding the whole hull and priming areas of concern, and that job cost me $5,000 for them to tape and spray. On this red Pilot with large flat areas there is NO way I have the skills to make Awlgrip look as good as the Grand Banks. It's coated with Awlcraft and has already had a large area perfectly repaired by real pros at the cost of four times the whole roll and tip job I did on the trawler.
 

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I don't think you can go wrong with either Alexseal or Awlcraft. Both good products as is LPU/AwlGrip, but LPU is a bit different.

I think your bigger decision is whether to go with Alexseal/Awlcraft, or LPU/AwlGrip. Don't quote me here, but my impression is the Alexseal/Awlgrip formulations are slightly softer but the pigment is consistent through the layer which is why it's easier to repair. LPU such as Awlgrip is much harder, but the pigment surfaces a bit. I read conflicting reports on its repairability- my takeaway was it is repairable but requires a bit more skill, primarily patience to buff-out the repair.

In the end, decide your yard who will do the painting and use what they prefer. Chances are they won't care whether you chose Alexseal or AwlGrip or AwlCraft. My yard in Ensenada didn't care, but they preferred Alexseal as they have been using it for 90% of their paint jobs for quite a few years. But are comfortable with Awlgrip if that's what I wanted. Honestly, I think it came down to the simple fact that the sales' rep for Alexseal is a bit nore visible than his Awlgrip/Awlcraft counterpart and is helpful with diagnosing any issues.

Peter
 
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My go to paint is Sherwin Williams Protective Marine Coatings Hi Solids Polyurethane. A two-part polyurethane paint very similar to Awlgrip. You can get it at a commercial SW store and they can match any color you chose and are very good can to can with the match. It allows small batch painting such as under hardware before sealing and great match up when finally doing the whole boat.
 
There seems to be a divide between the polyester based polyurethanes (like Awlgrip or Sterling) and the acylic based polyurethanes (like Awlcraft, Axelseal, Imron). The former are perhaps longer lasting, more difficult to apply, and much more difficult to repair. This is due to the surface layer of nearly clear film in the polyester based, which gives it the deep gloss but makes it hard to compound or feather a repair. The tradeoff is between slightly more glossy appearance and perhaps longer life, vs. repairability (including fixing any problems with initial application). In some applications they don't seem to use polyester based products, for example where a very smooth finish is required, because no matter what the application technique, there is always some orange peal texture and this cannot be block sanded and compounded out of the polyester products without ruining the surface.
 
If your having a pro do it. Use what he is most comfortable using. Don't insist on a product he has not used. You will get a better job.
 
I’ve been painting on and off for decades. Mostly automotive work but have a few complete hull repaints as well as hull repair/blending. It’s been mentioned that original awlgrip (polyester urethane) is really tough, and that is very true. It’s also true that it’s not a repairable finish. In fact, you really shouldn’t hit it with rubbing compound either. Once the surface has been compromised you’ll be a slave to rejex until you paint again. All polyester urethane are this way. But, if you treat them right, you’ll get a good ten years or more where they look as good as the day you put them on. With dark colors, I do a mix of clear and color for the last coats. It really helps lock in the color under a uv resistant surface. The paint reps will say it’s not necessary, but I’ve had spectacular results doing it.
If repairability is an issue for you, then use acrylic urethane. The choices for this are almost endless. I prefer ppg products (very expensive now), but a lot of boat painters I know like the alexseal. Alexseal tends to flow for a really long time though, and can surprise a painter that doesn’t know. If rolling it on the long flow is a plus, but I hate spraying it. The flash times are super long, and you have a lot of time for trash to get into the surface. (Bugs,dust,etc…) but, you can cut and buff the surface to get that out if you want. I just prefer not to have to do that extra work.
If you’re doing a dark color, really consider a clear coat on top. It’ll help with long term uv protection. On small boats I’ve also done base/clear with good result. Just be sure to use a hardened base for best repairability.
Whatever you choose, it’s the prep work that makes a good result. Do a good epoxy prime/seal coat to give a good foundation for whatever follows.
When it comes time to paint my latest boat, I’ll use original awlgrip. This hull has plank lines and those make an easy break if I need to touch up a section.
The toughness of awlgrip is worth the extra hassle to me.
 
Bmarler said:
I’ve been painting on and off for decades. Mostly automotive work but have a few complete hull repaints as well as hull repair/blending. It’s been mentioned that original awlgrip (polyester urethane) is really tough, and that is very true. It’s also true that it’s not a repairable finish. In fact, you really shouldn’t hit it with rubbing compound either. Once the surface has been compromised you’ll be a slave to rejex until you paint again. All polyester urethane are this way. But, if you treat them right, you’ll get a good ten years or more where they look as good as the day you put them on. With dark colors, I do a mix of clear and color for the last coats. It really helps lock in the color under a uv resistant surface. The paint reps will say it’s not necessary, but I’ve had spectacular results doing it.
If repairability is an issue for you, then use acrylic urethane. The choices for this are almost endless. I prefer ppg products (very expensive now), but a lot of boat painters I know like the alexseal. Alexseal tends to flow for a really long time though, and can surprise a painter that doesn’t know. If rolling it on the long flow is a plus, but I hate spraying it. The flash times are super long, and you have a lot of time for trash to get into the surface. (Bugs,dust,etc…) but, you can cut and buff the surface to get that out if you want. I just prefer not to have to do that extra work.
If you’re doing a dark color, really consider a clear coat on top. It’ll help with long term uv protection. On small boats I’ve also done base/clear with good result. Just be sure to use a hardened base for best repairability.
Whatever you choose, it’s the prep work that makes a good result. Do a good epoxy prime/seal coat to give a good foundation for whatever follows.
When it comes time to paint my latest boat, I’ll use original awlgrip. This hull has plank lines and those make an easy break if I need to touch up a section.
The toughness of awlgrip is worth the extra hassle to me.
Click to expand...

Thanks, great info!
 
This is a pretty common question and the advice given has been good. One piece of advice that I would add based on feedback from someone who has a lot of knowledge in the area..... Paint your boat with what the PAINTER likes to spray. Painting is as much art as science and painters get used to the characteristics of a certain paint. Better to use what they like/know than have them learn on your dime. So, if you pick the paint first, find the painter that likes to shoot that product. If you pick the painter first, go with what they like/recommend.
 
Jotun is the go to paint for me, it just has the legs of longevity and strength of elephant skin on a boat two coats high build Jotun primer and 3 coats of Jotun imprite 2000 on top, I’m ten years into a well used boat and she still shines all be it she would like nice with a fresh coat of Jotun to but 10 years is damn good in my book :) And you won’t find better value it’s what’s used on ships and commercially in Europe and gaining large traction in Australia and we are a test bed in Oz for paint, dosent get much harsher than down under :)
 
Great article, thanks Steve!
 
backinblue said:
Thanks but again this will be sprayed by a professional
Click to expand...

I just got some fiberglass work done 3 weeks ago. They used awlgrip. It came out beautifully!!! The quote to do hull paint was about 500.00 a foot using awlgrip.
Topside was about 1000.00 a foot.
Did I tell you the awlgrip looks amazing!!
Good luck
 
Hey Guys and Gals...!!

Not meaning to hijack this "Boat Hull-Paint" thread. And, some of my question could relate to paint choice for boats too:

So... I have a 1 ton commercial truck that needs paint. Cost to do so in paint shop is over-the-top$$$$!! Have seen newly painted boat photos [some on this thread] that look great! Can you recommend the boat "hull paint" that is best for withstanding minor abrasions... and that will take a shine after time has dulled its finish?

Thanks! - Art :dance:
 
Art said:
Thanks, Steve! I read the article. Plan to purchase some Awlgrip for brush on test application on my const trucks. May be an affordable way to take a good running older work truck and make it look good also. :D
Click to expand...

While the awlgrip would be a very durable finish, there may be some more cost effective alternatives.
Most, if not all, paint manufacturers have “fleet” paints available. I’d sure hesitate to apply paint at $1000/gal to a work truck. Even stuff like ppg delfleet is expensive enough and will provide a finish that’ll hold up for many years, but is significantly less expensive than awlgrip, or imron, or other polyester urethanes. Plus, they’re repairable, which means you can cut and buff a run or other defect that happens during application.
Many times, when doing more industrial type finishes, I’ll use a “good” quality industrial enamel, and add hardener to it to get better gloss and hardness to the surface. Not exactly recommended by paint reps, but decades of experience doing it has provided the confidence to use the technique.
 
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