Hand sanding and polishing ss rails and parts

[sdowney717]

I discovered how easy it really is.
I start with 400 grit, then 1000, then like 3000 or 5000, then 10000 grit which you can get on Amazon, it really does cut at 10000 grit, feels like a paper bag.
, but very durable paper, all of it. The lower grits you can get the 3M paper. All of it dry sanding by hand. The 400 grit removes the scratches, and the others start the polishing.

After 1000 grit it looks pretty good, but the higher grits make it look like new.

If you have light scratches and gouges, this really works well. Deeper ones are more effort but do also come out. I had a few rotary sander marks I was able to remove off this rail. Anything SS, you can polish doing this by hand and it really works very fast and the results make it look new.

 

[Bacchus]

FYI there is also a polihing handbook in the TF Library section in the Misc section.

 

[tcoop]

Bacchus, could you point me to the library section?

 

[Bacchus]

Bacchus, could you point me to the library section?

Its accessible from the TF website only... not the TF App. Its on top right of main page(s), maroon box with Library label. Just click on it to open and select the area -Manuals, Misc, etc and when you open one you will see a list of all the files you can download and save to your PC.

 

[sdowney717]

Talks about using buffing wheels. Well at least for SS you do not need any of this. It took me about 30 minutes by hand sanding to polish the entire rail. I figured that link would be what everyone would tell you you must use...

A free booklet (From CASWELL Plating) explains how to buff and polish metal using buffing wheels and compounds. Details each step, including which materials to use and gives answers to common polishing questions.

Simply today you can buy extremely fine sandpaper that works fast and is clean, no messy cremes. No need for a buffing wheel machine, all that will cost you a lot more money. My SS polishing, you can not see any fine scratches in the finish in the sunlight, it is perfect.

Ultra fine sandpaper from Amazon, and the 400 and 1000 grit from HDepot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013W44ESY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WJ3JVGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Lou_tribal]

A piece of leather (or few of them, one per compound type) and polishing compound (sold in solid bar, red, green, blue) can get you a mirror finish for a cheap price.

L

 

[tcoop]

Thanks, I have managed look past those links since I started lurking. Great resource.

 

[TJM]

It does polish up nicely. However, what you have done is remove the "passive" layer from the SS. What this means is that now you may start to see oxidation - rust on the surface especially by the welds.
Even the high grade 316 has ~68% iron.
304 and 316 are very similar except 316 has better corrosion resistance especially to salt air.

 

[guy with a boat]

It does polish up nicely. However, what you have done is remove the "passive" layer from the SS. What this means is that now you may start to see oxidation - rust on the surface especially by the welds.
Even the high grade 316 has ~68% iron.
304 and 316 are very similar except 316 has better corrosion resistance especially to salt air.

It was polished in the first place. I don’t know why this would be any different. There is no additional layer to the metal when new, so it should be the same. I haven’t had any issues with corrosion on re-polished stainless. Are we missing something?

 

[koliver]

It was polished in the first place. I don’t know why this would be any different. There is no additional layer to the metal when new, so it should be the same. I haven’t had any issues with corrosion on re-polished stainless. Are we missing something?

Many years ago, when I had a bit of SS work done on my boat, the guy finishing up then attacked some rust coloured SS railings with his polishing wheel and compounds. Those parts were badly discoloured then, and now, likely over 20 yrs later, they still look great.

The better shine keeps the rust away.

 

[mike66]

How much time is spent with each grit? In other words, how do you know when it's time to move to the next one?