After Fiberglass repairs

[StarChaser]

Star Chaser had her blisters repaired and will be headed back into the water in the reasonable future. However she needs a lot more work before she (& I) are ready to start cruising. To do those repairs Star needs to be moved from Beaufort to Baltimore. About 500-600 Miles. She.ll be on the hard for several years for the rest of the repairs.



My question is this:
Before Star gets splashed again should I have her bottom sanded & ReGel coated, or will 2-3 weeks saturate the fiberglass and cause me more problems down the road?

Do I really need to have the bottom repainted with the ablative paint or can that wait until after her repairs are complete?


Thanx John

 

[koliver]

Star Chaser had her blisters repaired and will be headed back into the water in the reasonable future. However she needs a lot more work before she (& I) are ready to start cruising. To do those repairs Star needs to be moved from Beaufort to Baltimore. About 500-600 Miles. She.ll be on the hard for several years for the rest of the repairs.



My question is this:
Before Star gets splashed again should I have her bottom sanded & ReGel coated, or will 2-3 weeks saturate the fiberglass and cause me more problems down the road?

Do I really need to have the bottom repainted with the ablative paint or can that wait until after her repairs are complete?


Thanx John

Search fairly recent posts for exactly this problem being discussed. Unfortunately I don't recall the details, but I think the end result was to splash without paint.

 

[Comodave]

I would not have gel coat put back on the bottom. I would put an epoxy barrier coat on the bottom instead. Now would be the ideal time to do it. With the bottom stripped bare it would just be a matter of rolling on the 5 or 6 coats of epoxy paint. Then you can add the bottom paint while the epoxy is still green without even having to sand in between. But make sure you follow the manufacturers directions exactly and put on at least as much barrier coat as they specify. I like Interlux Interprotect but there are other brands on the market that are probably just as good. You should not need any other work done to the bottom. Call Interlux support and ask how to do it exactly, they have been very helpful to me in the past.

 

[Cigatoo]

I would not have gel coat put back on the bottom. I would put an epoxy barrier coat on the bottom instead. Now would be the ideal time to do it. With the bottom stripped bare it would just be a matter of rolling on the 5 or 6 coats of epoxy paint. Then you can add the bottom paint while the epoxy is still green without even having to sand in between. But make sure you follow the manufacturers directions exactly and put on at least as much barrier coat as they specify. I like Interlux Interprotect but there are other brands on the market that are probably just as good. You should not need any other work done to the bottom. Call Interlux support and ask how to do it exactly, they have been very helpful to me in the past.

 

[Bacchus]

Another vote for barrier coat as Dave suggested.
If not now during the multi year refit at destination.
I dont know how much work it will take to prep again if nothing is done now as that's a local thing and I'm not familiar with bottom care & cleaning in the area.
If its all prepped now I would try to find a way to get the barrier and at least 1st coat of bottom on before the trip as it will save prep work later.
I understand the new Interprotect is more forgiving re timing between coats than it used to be.

 

[psneeld]

I haven't ever come across literature that describes the rate of absorption after repairs so at best my first discussion advice is a guess.


I don't believe new work, or even old that was either not wet or subsequently dried would absorb water in a couple weeks very much...which is the trick....some will absorb, but if hauling for 2 years and there are no barriers to slow drying...maybe not a bad idea to let it dry further.


Me, I would go ahead and finish her up before splashing her. As if she was going to be in the water for at least 1/2 to a full year.


While you could theoretically get to Baltimore in a week, best laid plans so to speak and letting the boat sit after a cruise stoppage and defeat the previous work would be a shame.

 

[StarChaser]

A bit more information.

When my son and I were coming up the ICW we got a load of bad fuel. This caused a LOT of trouble. We took on 18 inches of water and both engines quit. The generator started and ran allowing the 2" trash pump to pump us out. (It took 2 hours running full blast)
The port engine got us to a yard in Beaufort (Bock Marine) where we discovered the blisters.
I suck at fiberglass so i had Bock fix the 83 blisters.
The hull still has some gelcoat and bottom paint still on her where the blisters weren't. The bottom paint is at least 7 years old and pretty much gone.
One of the upgrades I plan on is having a bow thruster installed. (No arguments please IMO that is a yard job. Cutting big holes in my hull gives me a case of the screaming heebeejeebees.) I'll have that work done in Baltimore.
I "could" remove the rest of the bottom paint and prep for epoxy. (I hadn't thought of an epoxy tbh)
Overhauling Star gives me pause but doesn't terrify me. Master electrician,, electronics technician, Journeyman cabinetmaker, plumber, apprentice Welder.
The trup to Baltimore will have to be on the Port engine. The starboard engine will turn but will not run. Fortunately my nephew's son is a Marine mechanic and is willing to help. Worst case is to repower with 2 195hp Lehmans during the overhaul. I hope not but....

 

[Comodave]

If there are still places with gel coat then that is further reason to do a barrier coat. I would remove the existing bottom paint and then do a proper barrier coat. Then you should be good for the life of the boat. So it right once and be done with it. Talk to the tech support of the paint manufacturer of your choice and get their opinion.