I hate stainless

[Hippocampus]

Splashing beginning of next week so doing all the stainless that’s more difficult to reach when in the water. And I HATE stainless. This evening all my fingers hurt. Getting into cracks and crevices, between pieces and dong welds to get out every last spot is so time consuming. Have used every product out there but end up going back to the collinite ones as believe you get a longer interval between need to do t again.

What do you use? Will you share your tricks of the trade?

 

[Comodave]

I use this stuff. Get it on Amazon. I use a right angle drill with a buffing pad on it.

Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. H. I've had quite satisfactory results with: Spotless Stainless Home
Brush on. Do NOT allow to dry on. Hose off. "Active" ingredient is citric acid, I believe.

 

[BandB]

Wifey B: I'm not sure there's much difference between brands but we have found Star-Brite to be preferred.

 

[klee wyck]

We have to deal with a lot of stainless in our processing plant. High quality stainless is much easier to keep than poor quality even within the same high grade as 316.
Cleaning and passivation using the organic acids is the most common industrial approach. This not only cleans the corrosion off but leave a protective oxide layer behind that is protective for some time depending upon the harshness of the environment.
Nitric acid is most powerful but pretty nasty stuff so citric acid is more practical. High temperatures and long contact time are best. Using 5-10% citric acid powder in water (by weight) with hot(140?) water with 5-10 minutes of contact time if you can immerse it or keep it wet will work best. Should give you a pretty long reprieve.

 

[guy with a boat]

Are you guys getting corrosion on the stainless? Water spots? What is your goal in polishing?

We get some crevice corrosion at times that will cause a rust stain, but otherwise the polished stainless seems pretty maintenance free. We don’t do much other than it gets washed with the boat and sometimes a scuff needs attention. Otherwise it seems to stay looking good. Wondering what I’m missing out on.

 

[Insequent]

I have a 3(+) step process. I start with citric acid thats in a gel, a locally made product. It gets into all of the difficult places such as heads of Phillips screws easily. I leave it on for quite a while, sometimes an hour or so. Its a wash/brush off finish to that first step. If you just use citric acid in a runny liquid form you simply don't get adequate contact time. That's the benefit of the gel - good acid contact with the metal for a long time.

When dry I use Collinite Metal Polish. That brings up the stainless to a really bright finish and does not really need power buffing. But I soon learnt that it has poor performance in terms of rust spots developing again fairly quickly. So the third and final step is a paste wax application, usually Collinite Fleetwax. It is a very easy thing to do and lasts a surprisingly long time, even on my 1981 (relatively low quality) stainless.

When it eventually comes times to start again I pre-wash the stainless with dilute phosphoric acid to remove any residual wax from the last time. Often there is then no need to use the gel first step.

 

[diver dave]

This not only cleans the corrosion off but leave a protective oxide layer behind that is protective for some time depending upon the harshness of the environment.
Nitric acid is most powerful but pretty nasty stuff so citric acid is more practical. High temperatures and long contact time are best. ...

Does nitric result in some "darkening" of a polished SS finish? Or, maybe that is actually the oxide layer??

 

[AlanT]

Wifey B: I'm not sure there's much difference between brands but we have found Star-Brite to be preferred.

+1 for Starbrite. Plus reminding myself constantly that it is StainLess not StainFree.

 

[sunchaser]

Are you guys getting corrosion on the stainless? Water spots? What is your goal in polishing?

We get some crevice corrosion at times that will cause a rust stain, but otherwise the polished stainless seems pretty maintenance free. We don’t do much other than it gets washed with the boat and sometimes a scuff needs attention. Otherwise it seems to stay looking good. Wondering what I’m missing out on.

I've the same questions. Our SS rails look great after nearly two decades requiring nothing other than a damp shammy. Indeed there are better and lesser grades of SS, obviously we lucked out with an attentive build yard.

 

[denverd0n]

One big problem with stainless is previous owners who thought it was a good idea to use steel wool to remove the staining, but did not seek out and pay the price for STAINLESS steel wool. That just makes the problem worse and worse, as time goes on.

 

[rgano]

I guess I have been pretty lucky with the stainless on my boats because it seems that the only places I ever had to concern myself with were the bimini bows and not much there. I never have touched any other rail or stanchion on my boats because they simply never needed any care.

 

[klee wyck]

Whether or not stainless steel will require maintenance or not is complicated. Metallurgy for sure, but also stainless steels corrode when exposed to damaging chemicals, saline, grease, moisture, or heat for prolonged periods of time. Physics and chemistry. Warmer and saltier cruising with extended contact time before rinsing is not helpful.
LIBRA is up in the PNW and I have never touched the stainless. DOMINO is down in the very salty, very warm Sea of Cortez near an oil burning power plant. It is not maintenance free.

 

[Hippocampus]

We have to deal with a lot of stainless in our processing plant. High quality stainless is much easier to keep than poor quality even within the same high grade as 316.
Cleaning and passivation using the organic acids is the most common industrial approach. This not only cleans the corrosion off but leave a protective oxide layer behind that is protective for some time depending upon the harshness of the environment.
Nitric acid is most powerful but pretty nasty stuff so citric acid is more practical. High temperatures and long contact time are best. Using 5-10% citric acid powder in water (by weight) with hot(140?) water with 5-10 minutes of contact time if you can immerse it or keep it wet will work best. Should give you a pretty long reprieve.

Great information.

Don’t like spotless . Doesn’t last. Collinite does think which wax matters.
I do about the same as you.

Don’t know when PO last time did it First time for us
on this boat.
Chinese SS sucks. Will only buy or use European or Canadian or US. Same with anything galvi.

 

[Mako]

I'm starting to like the way the commercial fishing boats in China are being built (well, I've only visited 2 yards). They use 304 and they don't TIG unfortunately, so the welds are rather rough. But they paint the handrails. Not sure what they use for priming, but it's certainly better than using painted ferrous tubing.

 

[sunchaser]

Chinese SS sucks. Will only buy or use European or Canadian or US. Same with anything galvi.

Since your vessel is made in the US, do you think your SS is too? Our Chinese made SS rails, as previously mentioned, have stood the test of time. As one of the world's largest manufacturers of SS, China should have quality manufacturing pretty well figured out.

Within the 316 designation there are different grades with 316L being more resistant to corrosion. The L has lower C and Mo %es.

 

[Hippocampus]

Prior boat was made in mainland china. Everything 316L. Two bolts needed attention. Other bolts in same base of a deck fitting didn’t Suspect worker substituted grade.

Do like monel but silly money. In favor for Al boats is stable oxide i don’t mind the look of bare Al.

 

[mvweebles]

Since your vessel is made in the US, do you think your SS is too? Our Chinese made SS rails, as previously mentioned, have stood the test of time. As one of the world's largest manufacturers of SS, China should have quality manufacturing pretty well figured out.



Within the 316 designation there are different grades with 316L being more resistant to corrosion. The L has lower C and Mo %es.

Never heard of 316L. Thanks for the tip.

My observation is while we all use the perjorative "cheap Chinese junk," they are fully capable of the highest levels of quality if desired but they are most often associated with building to a low price point. I recently saw YouTube test comparison of adjustable "Crescent" wrenches. Both were Craftsman 10-inch. One was brand new and made in China. Other was new-original-stock from when they were made in USA. The reviewer had a number of clever tests and measurements - US built was clearly superior quality.

But I remember delivering a new Nordhavn 57 from Dana Point to Ft Lauderdale. Obviously I was on the boat for over a month. The SS that was OEM in China held up better with less staining than the SS installed during dockside commissioning.

When the Trump administration placed heavy tariffs on China, many businesses shifted manufacturing to other low cost places - Vietnam for example. But some manufacturing of precision gear is so advanced that it would take years to develop the talent base to run the plants let alone construct the facilities.

Bottom line is there is "cheap Chinese crap" in the market because that's what people want to buy, not because the Chinese can't make quality stuff. They can.

Maybe I'll go to Harbor Freight today.

Peter

 

[rslifkin]

With certain things like chain and shackles I tend to avoid the Chinese ones. Partly because the known-good Chinese brands aren't any cheaper than the known-good US made stuff for those parts (and at some retailers the US stuff is actually cheaper). That kind of stuff is heavy and expensive to transport, so it makes sense.

For other products, as much as I don't love buying Chinese stuff, if they've got a better product for something (or an equally good one at a significantly lower price), I'll buy it.

With stuff like stainless, a lot of times I struggle. It's often hard to determine whether a more expensive product is actually better or just more expensive.

As far as 316 vs 316L, if I remember correctly, the difference in corrosion resistance is more at high temperatures. That's why stainless marine exhaust parts are typically 316L rather than plain 316. For deck fittings, I'm not sure it matters much.

 

[AlanT]

Whether or not stainless steel will require maintenance or not is complicated. Metallurgy for sure, but also stainless steels corrode when exposed to damaging chemicals, saline, grease, moisture, or heat for prolonged periods of time. Physics and chemistry. Warmer and saltier cruising with extended contact time before rinsing is not helpful.
LIBRA is up in the PNW and I have never touched the stainless. DOMINO is down in the very salty, very warm Sea of Cortez near an oil burning power plant. It is not maintenance free.

+1 Pretty much my experience also. No need to maintain in the PNW currently. In the Med we had minor staining on the 316 which we took care of every few months, and major staining on the Stern Arch (of a sailboat) which was 310 and needed monthly attention.

 

[Gotwex]

Always had good results with Never-Dull, Comes in a saturated cotton like wadding. Takes some elbow grease but nice results. It is important to hose off stainless steel with fresh water and shammy after exposure to salt water/spray, to keep a shine.

 

[ScottC]

I swear by Collinite products. Boat fiberglass cleaner, Insulator paste wax, metal polish -- the lot. While it's on my spring launch list to apply Collinite metal polish to my SS railings every year, I think I actually only manage to do this once every three to four years. Despite my neglect, the railings seem to look fine. No rust, rust spots or anything. While travelling in the Med, however, I do take the time to rinse off salt spray after a day's run. This probably helps a bit.

 

[Bmarler]

i fabricate dodger frames for a boat top company in washington. when we weld the back grab onto the main bow we'll passivate the heat affected zone using pickling paste. not something for the general public to use. but as a final step after polishing out the weld areas we hit it with flitz. i use it on my own railings too, if i feel like it needs some freshening up.
https://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-...UBbMWJSR_v8diNUA5XLc4IowjtkcUfeYaAqe8EALw_wcB

 

[BandB]

As to cheap Chinese crap vs. quality Chinese production, it's all based on what the brand owner specifies and requires. It's specs and quality control. Chinese are fully capable of making the best possible and this applies to boats, stainless and anything else. Same with US, you can get some of the top quality in the world or junk. Someone mentioned Craftsman, US vs. China, well what about Craftsman before and after the acquisition by Black and Decker. Then it gets far more complicated as you talk a hand tool vs. a chain saw? All made by different people in different places.

Then Harbor Freight is tossed out. We once took over a location that had been Harbor Freight and reviewed the sales. Hardware wasn't so great but automotive was and many local shops were loyal customers so we continued to offer some of the products and we're comfortable warranting those products. Harbor Freight has built a supply chain over many years. Some products are toward the disposable side but others better quality. It's like the apartment owner who buys the cheapest set of Walmart screw drivers. Why not? They'll likely use them once a year for three years and never for anything requiring better. We can sell them the best tools in the world, but not likely to make a difference.

 

[BandB]

I swear by Collinite products. Boat fiberglass cleaner, Insulator paste wax, metal polish -- the lot. While it's on my spring launch list to apply Collinite metal polish to my SS railings every year, I think I actually only manage to do this once every three to four years. Despite my neglect, the railings seem to look fine. No rust, rust spots or anything. While travelling in the Med, however, I do take the time to rinse off salt spray after a day's run. This probably helps a bit.

What you call neglect may be good. I think some are being too aggressive in polishing and doing other things to their stainless. We spray on and gently rub off and not so often. Now we, like you, do rinse regularly. Like waxing the boat, don't wax it to death. We like Collinite but have gone moree the Star Brite route on Stainless.

 

[Bmarler]

As to cheap Chinese crap vs. quality Chinese production, it's all based on what the brand owner specifies and requires. It's specs and quality control. Chinese are fully capable of making the best possible and this applies to boats, stainless and anything else. Same with US, you can get some of the top quality in the world or junk. Someone mentioned Craftsman, US vs. China, well what about Craftsman before and after the acquisition by Black and Decker. Then it gets far more complicated as you talk a hand tool vs. a chain saw? All made by different people in different places.

Then Harbor Freight is tossed out. We once took over a location that had been Harbor Freight and reviewed the sales. Hardware wasn't so great but automotive was and many local shops were loyal customers so we continued to offer some of the products and we're comfortable warranting those products. Harbor Freight has built a supply chain over many years. Some products are toward the disposable side but others better quality. It's like the apartment owner who buys the cheapest set of Walmart screw drivers. Why not? They'll likely use them once a year for three years and never for anything requiring better. We can sell them the best tools in the world, but not likely to make a difference.

i've been to heavy industrial areas in china to train them how to maintain some of the equipment in a wood products manufacturing facility. i've seen firsthand the quality control isn't near the standard we adhere to. and then, after day shift was over and the third party inspectors were off shift there was another quality level altogether.
so, even if there are specs and standards, they sometimes don't adhere to them. corruption and payoffs are common.

 

[SailorGreg]

i've been to heavy industrial areas in china to train them how to maintain some of the equipment in a wood products manufacturing facility. i've seen firsthand the quality control isn't near the standard we adhere to. and then, after day shift was over and the third party inspectors were off shift there was another quality level altogether.

so, even if there are specs and standards, they sometimes don't adhere to them. corruption and payoffs are common.

I will second the vote for Nevr-Dull. I can do the entire boat in less than two hrs, a wad in one hand and a clean rag in the other. Twice a month in the Bahamas, once a month up north. Much less total time than paste polishes.

 

[diver dave]

I had my company buy a portable XRF for just this reason. And aluminum alloys were suspect as well.

 

[fryedaze]

I have been using this for the last year. Polish with 3M stainless polish and wipe on the Mother's.
https://mothers.com/products/cmx-ceramic-spray-coating-01024

 

[rpackard]

What am I missing here? Why would you want to "polish" your stainless things? These are boats after all. My boats work fine and I have never cleaned stainless steel in 65 years of boat ownership. Too busy maintaining running gear, etc.

Richard P