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Old 12-18-2017, 06:52 PM   #41
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No, mine are up about 3 ft but in a smooth deck.
Yeah, so in the deck.
Refueling in some slop will see water in the tanks
Degraded Orings will see water in the tanks
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:16 PM   #42
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I am an advocate for using quite of a bit of my fuel before refilling the tank, rather than topping off every trip. Because my flow rate is so low, I want to hold off until about 2/3 of the tank has been used. For the winter I use additives and fill the tank all the way up.

I never have water in my filter bowl at the end of the season, and use additives every other tank of fuel (100 gallons normally). The temperatures here are pretty stable for the boating season, and as much as I hear about condensation I have never seen the issue with this boat.

The quality of fuel degrades over time, so freshening the tank by burning it off makes sense to me. When I bought it, I pumped the entire tank off (gave it to the boatyard for a drip heater in the shop) and filled with fresh fuel. There was over 100 gallons of fuel in the 150 gallon tank, and only 46 hours on the 13 year old vessel. I didn't trust it for the trip up, heading a foreseeable problem off before it became a problem...

I run in rough water often and my filter bowl stayed clean after the trip up. On the trip up all kinds of gunk ripped loose inside the tank and wound up in the bowl. At one GPH max flow it didn't become an issue, but it was obvious the old fuel had allowed things to grow in the tank.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:42 PM   #43
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Additives at fill up

With any tank that has dead space below the pickup tubes that never gets changed over completely, there is a high probability that water and general crap will accumulate over time. This is especially true with 30 year old boats that do not spend time in rough water to shake them up.

You can deal with the “heavy ends” by adding chemicals to make some of it lighter and mixes with the clean diesel.

You can install a fuel polishing system.

You can drain off the heavy ends manually if your tank is set up for this.

You can run your fuel supply from the bottom of the tank. It’s probably best if done only occasionally starting from a clean tank.

Or you can run your boat in rough water to shake things up on a regular basis. (Again start with a clean tank)

I do the latter 3 things to keep mine clean.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:52 AM   #44
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Practical Sailors Report.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...s_11083-1.html
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:21 AM   #45
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A good article. Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2017, 12:41 PM   #46
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Yes indeed, a good article stating unequivocally that Startron Diesel additive is the best organic antidote for water in tanks. The best antidote is keep the salt water out!
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:19 PM   #47
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I'm 69 and first captained a diesel boat in the early 60s. I've never had a fuel problem. If you use high volumes of fuel, then the included additives in newly refined fuel will keep your tanks clean. But if your tanks sit, they will acquire water and organisms. Full tanks collect less unwanted water and organisms than near empty tanks. Cold climates collect less, but still collect. I use an additive every time I fuel.
I have a diesel PU that has a known injector problem with sludge buildups that cause misfiring. In solving the problem I came across Archoil 6200, a fuel modification complex. I also use AR9100 - a friction modifier. Now my injectors are beyond typical working life and operating fine. In addition, I get increased mileage, clean tanks, etc. I now use it in the boat and see better mileage, better winter starts, clean tanks, etc. If interested - archoil.com
Available on Amazon, Ebay and better fuel dealers.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:52 PM   #48
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Quiet day and this 14+ page thread has entertainment value from post 1


ArCHOIL 6200 WOW
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...W!#Post3356100

Starts to get more informative around page 6

Add: read all that and a larger thread on a cummins forum and found no actual evidence that pouring several hundred dollars worth of miracle elixir into my tank will have an actual benefit.

I'll pour several hundred dollars worth of diesel in instead, at least I know I'll get a return on that.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:09 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
I'm 69 and first captained a diesel boat in the early 60s. I've never had a fuel problem. If you use high volumes of fuel, then the included additives in newly refined fuel will keep your tanks clean. But if your tanks sit, they will acquire water and organisms. Full tanks collect less unwanted water and organisms than near empty tanks. Cold climates collect less, but still collect. I use an additive every time I fuel.
I have a diesel PU that has a known injector problem with sludge buildups that cause misfiring. In solving the problem I came across Archoil 6200, a fuel modification complex. I also use AR9100 - a friction modifier. Now my injectors are beyond typical working life and operating fine. In addition, I get increased mileage, clean tanks, etc. I now use it in the boat and see better mileage, better winter starts, clean tanks, etc. If interested - archoil.com
Available on Amazon, Ebay and better fuel dealers.
I understand the basics of how the friction modifiers work in improving injector performance. There are numerous products which do that very well.

But I still have not seen any clear information on how additives deal with water that accumulates in the tanks. What is the chemical process?
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:38 PM   #50
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But I still have not seen any clear information on how additives deal with water that accumulates in the tanks. What is the chemical process?
I think one way is emulsifying the water so it gets burnt, I think there is a second way someone else will remember.
I use "Fuelmaster". Does it help? Not sure,despite the naysayers, I continue with it.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:46 PM   #51
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The increased fuel mileage claim is one that gets me.

If these miracle elixirs did actually work, wouldn't an oil company buy it and add it to their fuel?
They would instantly claim market share over their competitors who sell the less efficient product.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:48 PM   #52
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I think one way is emulsifying the water so it gets burnt, I think there is a second way someone else will remember.
I use "Fuelmaster". Does it help? Not sure,despite the naysayers, I continue with it.
If it is emulsified and burnt, that cannot be good for an injector pump. The water component in the emulsified globule is still incompressible.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:53 PM   #53
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“If these miracle elixirs did actually work, wouldn't an oil company buy it and add it to their fuel?
They would instantly claim market share over their competitors who sell the less efficient product.”

Bingo!!
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:58 PM   #54
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If it is emulsified and burnt, that cannot be good for an injector pump. The water component in the emulsified globule is still incompressible.
I don`t know the tech aspects but that could be very fair comment. Mind you, I`ve been using additives in 2 boats(3 engines), and no injector pump failure. So far.
Let`s hope an additive mfr responds,(I won`t hold my breath pending). Like anchor mfrs do. On some posts (not Auscan`s under reply)the thread is starting to resemble an anchor thread.
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:07 PM   #55
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I don`t know the tech aspects but that could be very fair comment. Mind you, I`ve been using additives in 2 boats(3 engines), and no injector pump failure. So far.
Let`s hope an additive mfr responds,(I won`t hold my breath pending). Like anchor mfrs do. On some posts (not Auscan`s under reply)the thread is starting to resemble an anchor thread.
If the emulsifying agent limited the amount of water in each globule, that would limit the increased stress on the injector pump. Perhaps.

Still - manually draining the water out of the tank makes more sense to me.

As I mentioned previously - there are numerous way to deal with this. (just like anchoring)
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:19 PM   #56
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As Nigel Calder suggests, all fuel tanks should have a drainable sump with a valve. Mine have a screw in plug the brave can drain from, though I think Brisboy added a valve to his. No sump though.
Of course other additive properties are claimed,water removal is not the only one. If you accept,in whole or part, the mfrs claims.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:31 PM   #57
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I am following the lead of many of the long range and live aboard cruisers on here, including the people who run and manage heavy land based equipment. The last thread a couple weeks ago was enough for me to finally decide. BIobor yes, but no other lube additives. Anyone want to buy some Stenadyne?
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:39 PM   #58
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. The last thread a couple weeks ago
Was there any actual evidence in that one?

I don't know why actual documented evidence and data is so hard to come by.

Surely it should be as simple as two mining sites/ fishing companies etc running the same big engines and fuel source.
Site A runs "miracle elixir" infused diesel through its gear
Site B runs bog standard diesel through its gear.

Report back at 6 mth intervals with results.
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Old 12-19-2017, 11:16 PM   #59
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If you go to Harbor Freight. You can purchase a box of rubber o rings (assortment of sizes) for like 8 bucks that will last you and you kids the rest of your lives Great to have around.
With the HF kit in hand, I still had to take the old O'ring to O'Reilley's to get a proper fitting O ring.
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Old 12-19-2017, 11:48 PM   #60
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When you guys say deck fill are they actually in the deck?

Delivered a boat once and had to refuel on passage and it had actual deck fillers.
Stupid spot for them because the decks were continually awash with salt water while it was happening.

Ours are in the cabin sides about 3 ft above deck.
My sailboat had a flush mount deck fill for fuel. I've seen that plenty of times. My North Pacfic has fills in the cockpit corners. They are about 18" up from the deck and are snugged up to the back bulkhead of the solon. The cockpit is covered as well. So not much water gets in there. Still, I should check the O-rings.
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