Interlux Brightside + 1-2-3 Primer?

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BrianG

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Will I burn in hell if I prime a 4' piece of mahogany with 1-2-3 before topcoating it with Brightside?
 
Brightside is a polyurethane so best results would be over a polyurethane primer such as prekote. I believe 1-2-3 is water based and wouldn't be compatible with an oily wood such as teak.
 
I use the recommended PreKote primer with Brightside paint. If you use something else there is no blaming the paint when/if it fails.
 
Brightside is an oil based alkyd paint, not true polyurethane.

Any oil based primer is compatible.

I use Zinsser Cover Stain primer which is oil based.

Zinsser 123 is water based.

A good water based primer is System Three Silvertip Yacht Primer. It is a two part primer.
 
I would use PreKote primer also. If prepared right mahogany should hold paint good.
 
Brightside is an oil based alkyd paint, not true polyurethane.
Any oil based primer is compatible.
I use Zinsser Cover Stain primer which is oil based.
Zinsser 123 is water based.
A good water based primer is System Three Silvertip Yacht Primer. It is a two part primer.

Interesting. MSDS lists stoddard solvent and naptha as thinners so how do they claim it's a polyurethane?

Prekote is obscenely overpriced and unless you backfill with nitrogen a thick skin will form making it nigh impossible to use it for the next touch up job 4 years later. Anything named "marine"....
 
Interesting. MSDS lists stoddard solvent and naptha as thinners so how do they claim it's a polyurethane?

Prekote is obscenely overpriced and unless you backfill with nitrogen a thick skin will form making it nigh impossible to use it for the next touch up job 4 years later. Anything named "marine"....

agree it's overpriced and I have a ton of 1-2-3.
 
I always used oil primers with oil based paints. My problem with things like 1-2-3 is that they don't level well. The Interlux is pretty glossy and will show imperfections.
 
Interesting. MSDS lists stoddard solvent and naptha as thinners so how do they claim it's a polyurethane?

Prekote is obscenely overpriced and unless you backfill with nitrogen a thick skin will form making it nigh impossible to use it for the next touch up job 4 years later. Anything named "marine"....


I think that it's a marketing term. There might be a small precentage of polyurethane something in it.

Like Pettit EZ-Poxy. It's actually a one part "polyurethane" like Brightside.

If I was painting your mahagany, I would put a couple coats of epoxy on it to seal it from moisture and for a strong bond. Smith's Penetrating Epoxy is good for that. The paint can be applied before the epoxy is fully cured creating a tenacious bond and smooth surface if you sand the next to last coat.
 
I think that it's a marketing term. There might be a small precentage of polyurethane something in it.

Like Pettit EZ-Poxy. It's actually a one part "polyurethane" like Brightside.

If I was painting your mahagany, I would put a couple coats of epoxy on it to seal it from moisture and for a strong bond. Smith's Penetrating Epoxy is good for that. The paint can be applied before the epoxy is fully cured creating a tenacious bond and smooth surface if you sand the next to last coat.
so substitue the primer with epoxy?
 
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xyso substitue the primer with epoxy?

Yes. Go to Smith and Company website and there should be instructions; "Priming with CPES to glue down varnish". Use oil based paint instead of varnish.

The epoxy seals the wood pores so moisture can not get in. That stabilizes the wood so no more swelling and shrinking occurs which prevents the paint from deteriorating or coming loose.

Rot prevention is another reason for epoxy coating wood like mahogany. Mahogany is not as rot resistant as teak or cedar so an epoxy coating will stop water intrusion. Rot and fungus can not grow without moisture.
 
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