Ideal Windlass Rebuild. Questions.

[mvweebles]

Cleaning and refreshing my 50 year old Ideal Windlass and have a couple questions. Folks at Schaeffer, owners of ideal, were not exactly helpful so pinging the TF Bigger Brain.

I never knew the gearbox on these windlasses should have oil in them. My gears look fine and I've cleaned out all debris. QUESTION - gearbox takes 90w. Any recommendations for the bronze mating surfaces ? There was no gasket or sealant. Only three small bolts hold the two halves together.

The clutch disks are shiny and need either replace or resurface. QUESTION: I'm thinking of hitting them with 80 grit and random orbital sander. Thoughts?

The reason I have it apart is the bozos who painted it (didn't ask - they were doing me a favor) broke the positive cable connection. The cryptic email from Schaeffer said "just take it to an auto electric shop." I'll do that but have no idea if it's something I should break-down further. While I'm posting, thought maybe someone in TF-land may have some good ideas

Thanks in advance.

Peter

 

[KnotYet]

I have used Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker 81182 from a local auto parts store.
So far so good...

Roughing up the clutch discs sounds like a good idea, just don't breathe the dust!

The DC motor will have brushes and a commutator that you might as well clean up.
Check the bearings, too. Who knows when you will get another chance like this?
They are most likely a (once) standard dimension that may still be available, if needed.

 

[Lepke]

A shop that rebuilds car & truck clutches should have material to make new disks if needed. If the disks get too thin, it may not clutch right.

If the surfaces of the gear box and motor are flat and in good condition, silicone sealer w/o a gasket should work. You may need to seal the bolt threads, too, if they go all the way thru. When I rebuilt racing engines I used silicone for pan, timing cover, valve covers and no gasket w/o failure.

 

[Insequent]

I replaced the bearings in my old Ideal. The local bearing shop had them, they are standard sizes and its worth doing. But I couldn't keep the 90W oil in it. It needs to have oil as the thrust bearing at the top will bind otherwise.

Mine had 4 x 5/16" bolts holding the motor to the gearbox, but despite several attempts at gaskets I could not stop it leaking. I considered using longer bolts and having a nut on the other side to act as a locknut. I suspect I had a slightly bent shaft on the motor or in the gearbox. I gave up and sold it cheaply online.

Before Schaefer bought them out they claimed they could rebuild anything, often did, and I believed them. But shipping from Australia was impractical. I had further correspondence just after Schaefer took over, and although there was a delay I found them quite helpful and they quoted I thought reasonable prices for new parts.

 

[O C Diver]

I have used Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker 81182 from a local auto parts store.
So far so good....

I rebuilt my Ideal windlass in 2015. As KnotYet suggests I used Permatex gasket maker. Not a hint of a leak in 6 years.

I chose synthetic 80 or 90 weight differential oil with the assumption that the cost difference was insignificant to the overall project, it's a better form of lubrication, and barring a failure, I'll never need to replace it. Mine gets used a lot.

I wouldn't ruff up the pads. There's a lot of surface area and if you free spool, I wouldn't want the pads grabby.

Ted

 

[LarryM]

Peter,

From the Shaefer/Ideal website:

Motor gaskets.

4 bolt motors use a fiber gasket along with permatex form a gasket. A gasket is provided with each motor.

3 bolt motors do not use a fiber gasket, only permatex form a gasket. When replacing motors all surfaces should be well cleaned before applying permatex and re-assembling.

Hope that helps.

 

[socalrider]

I replaced my friction discs - the Schaeffer folks sold me new ones & were pretty helpful when I e-mailed; maybe they're backed up with the holidays or something.

 

[Bmarler]

For sealing machined surfaces, permatex 80019 aviation sealant is hard to beat.

For problem gearboxes that just won’t hold oil, penrite makes a special “pourable grease” that is yellow metal friendly. I consider it only where all attempts at holding oil fail. It’s a good product, I’ve used it many times. It’s designed for old steering boxes. Kind of a cross between oil and grease. Not sure how it would work with clutch discs, but I’d try it.