Metal Hulls

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I am a fan of fiberglass hulls. However several trawler makes are built out of steel or aluminum.

Can we discuss the pros and cons of both steel and aluminum hulls vis a vis a long ranger trawler-style cruiser. I have eliminated wooden hulls from purchase-contention, and nearly-eliminated steel, but would like feedback on steel and aluminum hulls. Not looking for an argument, but, rather, a bit of an education.

Thanks
 
I am a fan of fiberglass hulls. However several trawler makes are built out of steel or aluminum.

Can we discuss the pros and cons of both steel and aluminum hulls vis a vis a long ranger trawler-style cruiser. I have eliminated wooden hulls from purchase-contention, and nearly-eliminated steel, but would like feedback on steel and aluminum hulls. Not looking for an argument, but, rather, a bit of an education.

Thanks
Especially aluminum hulls.
 
Steel works fine as does Aluminum , tho the cost difference is high and there is little need for a light weight hull in a displacement cruiser.

The location of the builder may have more to do with the hulls ability to cruise than the hull material.

Euros seem to love steel and do great tho expensive boats.

If the cost is to be held down a GRP boat will usually cost less as the mold can be used multiple times., and all systems need to be designed only once.

I suggest you list what you think are the requirements of your next boat and decide the material that works best for you.

Just keep in mind , "Bestitis" is a disease.
 
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bestitis....nice. I suffer from that, along with analysis paralysis....

I'd imagine this question is driven in a large part by the grade of steel used, too. The wrong grade steel could be a nightmare!

I have no experience to answer the question...but I'm reminded of the many times I heard my dad tell stories of endless chipping and painting during his days in the Coast Guard. He's a retired Boatswains Mate Master Cheif.
 
I have been looking at the Pluckebaum, Legacy and Monticello aluminum boats. Talked with a surveyor very experienced in aluminum and found out all have factory installed cathodic protection equipment which induce mili-voltage to the water around the hull to protect against electrolytic corrosion. A check should be made that sufficient electrodes are installed.
They also should be equipped with a Galvanic Isolation Transformer, this equipment protects the boat from shore power ground contamination. Many owners do not go to the expense of installing this protection but it should be on your check list.
They also are equipped with anode plates and shaft collars based on salt or fresh water areas.
I haven’t been interested in steel construction although the modern metal coatings have some what changed the running rust, paint chipping maintenance that I also remember from my years of sea duty.
 
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I used to work at an aluminum boat company, Bellcraft just out of the service and did some boats with them and i can say as a bow welder the aluminum does not bend well and heat deforms it, so many boats have added bondo to hull sides that are typically wavy after welding. but you will have the stronger boat.

As mentioned above electrolysis unchecked on metal boats gets bad fast, figure out a way your surveyor can measure the thickness of the hull in different areas.

also repairing a bad area is difficult the cracks and erosion can go deep i think they use a special dye for this.

and you will need special primer.
 
Thanks for your replies. I'm soooo confused. Maybe, I'll just find a nice Hattaras, LRC.!!!
 
My steel trawler fits my needs pretty well:

5 to 10,000 nm range (Not a typo)
Simple and bullet proof
Smash into something and that reef/boat/dock will break, not the steel vessel.
ExCommercial vessels come with ancillary equipment drastically over engineered for private use.
ExCommercial vessels often have great range, tankage and storage
Simple to repair or make additions. Bring a welder and paint brush. This is even more so when sailing off to remote areas.
Heft smoothes out the ride

The downsides:
Mine built for long distances but is an absolute pig to handle in close quarters. Definitely not fun as a marina princess.
Do you enjoy painting?
Insurance of an ex-commercial vessel can be a challenge.
 
Over the decades the paint system used on steel boats has improved , fine for a new build or a total strip, but not much help on an older already painted boat.

Investigate a needle gun which uses air power to clean the surface tobe painted.


www.homedepot.com › ... › Air Tools › Air Hammers

The Powermate Vx air needle scaler is a durable and versatile pistol type ... It is perfect for surface preparation involving the removal of rust, dirt, paint and weld ... Rating: 4.4 · ‎35 reviews · ‎$28.83 · ‎In stock
 
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I'm certainly no expert, but I'll chime in. Aluminum is a wonderful material for a boat, but all materials have shortfalls. If you are building a boat there are different material considerations that if you are buying a boat - but whether you are building or purchasing an already built boat, aluminum requires you to mitigate problems with galvanic corrosion, stray current corrosion, and aluminum's thermal and sound conductivity.

Obviously you don't just live with the shortfalls, you try to mitigate the problems. I've found a distinct lack of knowledge at many boatyards on issues with aluminum boats. That's probably a geographic issue. In the PNW or Australia, there are a great many aluminum boats and yards familiar with them are easier to come by. Where I am on the East coast of US that's not the case. I'll let you know in 10 or so years whether I've figured it out.
 
Aluminium is excellent and low maintenance for boats as long as you don't paint them. Just take a look at your painted aluminum lawn furniture or your painted A. windows. They look good with paint but it's a nightmare to repair when the coating fails. If you like shiny, don't buy aluminum and paint it, buy glass and wax it every year.

Besides, who would use bondo on a hull? Basically a crap fabricator.

I have aluminum anodes and an isolation transformer, not a galvanic isolator.
 
I have an aluminum racing sailboat that's painted. The reputable builder does both unpainted work/commercial boats and painted yachts.

For painted yachts they skim with fairing compound and long board sand, then apply epoxy primer, then finish in awlgrip. My 20 year old boat has stood up pretty well so far, but it's spent most of its life on the trailer. IMG_20190519_191557851.jpeg
 
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