First attempt at varnish... lol...

[Scottwb96]

I have been REALLY wanting to get the cockpit wood redone... I was going to pay someone to do it, but since I all of a sudden have A LOT more free time on my hands and already did all the "fun upgrades" (full electrical in Oct/Nov) figured what the heck...
So after reading through A LOT of other posts on here, went on down to Fisheries and grabbed some supplies they recommended Pettit Captains...

Spent the latter part of the day scraping and sanding (scraping SUCKS BTW)!!! After about 3-4 hours, started to see some wood that didn't make me want to cringe every time I saw it...

Still have A LOT more sanding to go, but not bad for first day. BTW, the last pics are after I washed it, I haven't started the actual seal/varnish part yet (more sanding)...

 

[RonR]

It’s a ship ton of work! But man it looks cool!

 

[koliver]

Scraping is the best way to take a lot of varnish off quickly. You need to keep a file handy and sharpen your scraper frequently. Extra blades are good to have as well. Use a new blade to check that when sharpening, you achieve the correct angle, or close. Your satisfaction with scraping will improve with practice.
Sanding should be saved for after you have finished scraping. Start with 120 grit and progress to 220. No need to go finer, as you will be putting on a few coats and can save going to finer paper for when you are recoating for the 8th coat.

 

[mvweebles]

Just got first pics of my caprail. Glassed and sprayed LPU (AlexSeal). I've joined the never-again club of brightwork finishers

 

[rslifkin]

Looking good so far!

I'm currently working on refinishing my pulpit teak. Picture is right after putting on the 3rd coat of perfection plus. A few more coats to go and it'll be good to go. Fortunately, my only exterior teak is this, a couple of steps and a couple of small trim pieces, no big cap rails or anything to maintain.

 

[Capitaine R]

My wife and I are just starting to refinish the teak around the our saloon windows. We are using the method that a lot of sailboat owners are using now. It was also demonstrated by my favourite youtuber, boatworkstoday. After sanding we applied 3 coats of the very clear epoxy resin. Two coats of 2015 varnish and one coat of 1015 varness. Supposedly this method has plenty of UV protection, will not crack, and last longer than varnish only. Time will tell. This picture is only after the resin

 

[Rufus]

Looking good so far!

I'm currently working on refinishing my pulpit teak. Picture is right after putting on the 3rd coat of perfection plus. A few more coats to go and it'll be good to go. Fortunately, my only exterior teak is this, a couple of steps and a couple of small trim pieces, no big cap rails or anything to maintain.

I'm very interested in your experience with Perfection Plus, as I have a large cap rail to refinish (similar to the photos in the original post). That's the two part urethane, right? How bad is the chemical smell? Any complaints from neighbors inside the building? Do you wear a respirator type mask? Problems with micro-bubbles during application? Brushing, or rolling and tipping? Can you manage more than one coat per day (cure time)? What's the temperature in the building? I used Perfection (white) on my forward and side deck diamond non-skid, and the chemical smell was pretty intense. I did it in the marina (T dock) and got away with it by choosing days when the breeze was blowing the smell offshore...just wondering if the "Plus" is equally bad. Super tough stuff though.

I like the look in your photo as it appears to not have a reddish tint. Is it clear, or does it have a Honey tint? Looks nice on your pulpit. The stuff I took off last Fall was ten year old Bristol. It had a honey tint...difficult to apply though....some micro bubbles as I recall. The Perfection Plus is supposed to provide outstanding UV protection. Might be easier than the epoxy plus varnish technique. I'm also considering the Epiphanes Wood whatever"....a single part polyurethane.

Thanks.

 

[rslifkin]

The perfection plus is clear, no coloring at all. The first thinned coat seemed to pick up a little coloring from the wood, as the stuff in the cup was a bit brownish by the time I was done. I didn't bleach the teak or anything, just stripped the Cetol that was on it and sanded it all to get it smooth and even out the color some from where the old windlass was, etc. Then cleaned the teak with acetone, let it dry and started coating.

The smell is pretty strong, especially the first couple of coats with thinner added (and would probably be worse in warmer weather). I've been working up on the bow and it's a large building, so I've just been putting a coat on and then staying off the bow for the rest of the day to avoid the fumes. I've also had a fan up there to push the fumes away while I'm working. You can't smell it at ground level (or the other end of my boat) and there hasn't been anyone on the neighboring boats, so no complaints from anyone.

It's been mostly in the 40 - 55 degree range in the building, so 1 coat per day max, as it cures pretty slowly at that temperature. If it's warm enough you should be able to do 2 coats per day.

I do have a few micro bubbles once I stopped thinning it after the first 2 coats (applying with a foam brush). I started out with a bristle brush, but got tired of picking bristles out of the coating and switched to foam, although I might switch back for the final coats to see if it helps the bubbles. I let it sit for a couple days and sanded lightly with 320 before the 4th coat went on to knock down some of the bubbles and even it out. 5th coat went on yesterday. At this point, I'm going to let it dry for a couple of days and re-mount the pulpit this weekend. Then I'll go over it again with another 320 grit disc on the sander and give it 1 or 2 more coats.

Here's what it looked like right after brushing on the 5th coat. By that point, it was so glossy that I was having to look pretty closely to keep track of the edge of where I was brushing. It was hard to tell the difference between the new, wet coating and the existing stuff.

 

[Rufus]

Thanks. Very helpful. I do like the clear! If I use it, I might add just a little flattener to the last coat. Good idea about the fan, and since out boat is up on blocks in the building the fumes would likely not be bad at floor level . Thanks, again.

 

[Scottwb96]

Does anyone know what the specific fabric is called that has a soft backing? The stuff that goes on all the pretty wood to keep it from getting scratched?

 

[RonR]

The perfection plus is clear, no coloring at all. The first thinned coat seemed to pick up a little coloring from the wood, as the stuff in the cup was a bit brownish by the time I was done. I didn't bleach the teak or anything, just stripped the Cetol that was on it and sanded it all to get it smooth and even out the color some from where the old windlass was, etc. Then cleaned the teak with acetone, let it dry and started coating.

The smell is pretty strong, especially the first couple of coats with thinner added (and would probably be worse in warmer weather). I've been working up on the bow and it's a large building, so I've just been putting a coat on and then staying off the bow for the rest of the day to avoid the fumes. I've also had a fan up there to push the fumes away while I'm working. You can't smell it at ground level (or the other end of my boat) and there hasn't been anyone on the neighboring boats, so no complaints from anyone.

It's been mostly in the 40 - 55 degree range in the building, so 1 coat per day max, as it cures pretty slowly at that temperature. If it's warm enough you should be able to do 2 coats per day.

I do have a few micro bubbles once I stopped thinning it after the first 2 coats (applying with a foam brush). I started out with a bristle brush, but got tired of picking bristles out of the coating and switched to foam, although I might switch back for the final coats to see if it helps the bubbles. I let it sit for a couple days and sanded lightly with 320 before the 4th coat went on to knock down some of the bubbles and even it out. 5th coat went on yesterday. At this point, I'm going to let it dry for a couple of days and re-mount the pulpit this weekend. Then I'll go over it again with another 320 grit disc on the sander and give it 1 or 2 more coats.

Here's what it looked like right after brushing on the 5th coat. By that point, it was so glossy that I was having to look pretty closely to keep track of the edge of where I was brushing. It was hard to tell the difference between the new, wet coating and the existing stuff.

Very nice !
I am no pro, but many will coat the final 2-5 coats with a standard varnish vs the Perfection Plus, it lays down better with no air, and its a tad bit easier to sand/buff to perfection. As far as the brush, buy a good one, keep it clean and in its cover when not in use, don't use the cheap chip brushes as they are too thick of a hair and shed like a dog. I like to roll mine on, then back brush or tip as many call it for the best product displacement and a even coat.

 

[rslifkin]

Very nice !
I am no pro, but many will coat the final 2-5 coats with a standard varnish vs the Perfection Plus, it lays down better with no air, and its a tad bit easier to sand/buff to perfection. As far as the brush, buy a good one, keep it clean and in its cover when not in use, don't use the cheap chip brushes as they are too thick of a hair and shed like a dog. I like to roll mine on, then back brush or tip as many call it for the best product displacement and a even coat.

Here's a shot of the finished product mounted in place. I ended up giving it another sand and a 6th coat. Still has some tiny bubbles, but they're only visible from just the right angle, so I'm ignoring them. Other than that, it looks good.

 

[Northern Spy]

Does anyone know what the specific fabric is called that has a soft backing? The stuff that goes on all the pretty wood to keep it from getting scratched?

Sunbrella Supreme.

On my list of things to do too. My sewing machine is wondering why it hasn't gotten any love during the pandemic.

 

[Scottwb96]

Sunbrella Supreme.

On my list of things to do too. My sewing machine is wondering why it hasn't gotten any love during the pandemic.

This is the stuff with the "soft, non-abrasive" backing? Also found Sailrite Softouch as an option...

 

[Frosty]

Does anyone know what the specific fabric is called that has a soft backing? The stuff that goes on all the pretty wood to keep it from getting scratched?

Softouch is one. It is Odyssey fabric with a soft backing laminated to it. I have purchased some (Sailrite) but not used it yet, so I can't comment on longevity or etc. but it is what I expected: A marine fabric with a soft lining on one side.

Here is a link to one color of the Softouch:

https://www.sailrite.com/Softouch-Charcoal-60-Fabric

Sailrite also has a "liner" type fabric that you can sew onto any other fabric (say you wanted to use the Sunbrella that matches your other canvas). I bought a sample of that and a sample card of the Softouch. I chose the Softouch in this case but could see uses for the other as well (IIRC it was not quite as soft, but it's been awhile). I can't remember the name of that product, and can't seem to find it on Sailrite (it was not Boat Blanket but was a thinner fabric specifically meant as a liner IIRC).

 

[docvchulek]

My wife and I are just starting to refinish the teak around the our saloon windows. We are using the method that a lot of sailboat owners are using now. It was also demonstrated by my favourite youtuber, boatworkstoday. After sanding we applied 3 coats of the very clear epoxy resin. Two coats of 2015 varnish and one coat of 1015 varness. Supposedly this method has plenty of UV protection, will not crack, and last longer than varnish only. Time will tell. This picture is only after the resin
View attachment 101277

Capitaine, I started a project with the epoxy resin base followed by the 2 then 1015 but I was inside. Now I will need to do some work on the boat at our covered slip, how did you keep dust and bugs from getting in your resin and then varnish?

 

[Capitaine R]

So far all I have used to keep the dust and bugs at bay was to clean up the sanding dust around the area and picking a low wind day to apply the coatings. And I was having very good luck until this Saturday. Several minutes after applying the first coat of resin to several pieces of trim work my neighbourhood and my trim pieces were covered in love bugs. I tried to keep up with them by pulling each one out as they landed in the sticky stuff but had to give up eventually. The next day I had to sand the dead bodies out. The love bugs are still swarming every day since, so the work has stopped for now.

 

[Capitaine R]

Docv, I forgot to mention that I am not working in a marina. Our boat is in our yard at our home, so dust is not generated from any one around us as long as no one is mowing their lawn, trimming the bushes, or any big outside activity. The surrounding homes are also on acreage so even that is not to much of a problem.

 

[docvchulek]

Captain Ron,

Thanks. I figure I will have to create some type of visqueen tent and pray.