Heavy Weather - GB42

[Mac G]

Since it is offseason now, is time to study, research and learn more for the upccoming season from the experts here.

Am new to powerboating.
New to the Grand Banks.
We have a 42 Classic, twin screw, no stabilizers.
Looking for advice specifically related to heavy weather handling.

By way of background, have been a deep keel monohull offshore sailor.
Have been in all conditions, squalls, bad weather, big waves, chop, etc and know how to steer through waves upwind and off the wind, reef, heave-to, pretty much deal with anything - in a deep keel monohull offshore suitable sailboat. Am very comfortable dealing with whatever.
Have zero (or very little) experience with any of that in a powerboat.

We are older now and do not intend to go out when the weather is bad.
We will be much more circumspect and mindful and only intend to coastal cruise and visit the Great Lakes.

However, I know at some point something will happen where we will end up being in crappy weather either due to an incorrect forecast or squall or whatever and so I want some basic advice I can store away in the back of my mind to pull out when needed.

The Grand Banks 42 is fine forward and flat aft, semi displacement.
Has full length keel for tracking well, but not weighted with lead like I am used to.

What are the specific heavy weather strategies for:
Upwind with seas.
Off-the-wind with seas.
Quartering seas.
Following seas.

What are the driving techniques and throttle/speed control techniques I should be aware of and start practicing?

Looking for input from those who have been there and done that and not just necessarily on a GB but any similiar style vessel.

What do you old salts recommend and advise for technique?

Please advise

Thank you

 

[Lepke]

Best advice on rough weather, don't be in a hurry to travel, watch the weather. Learn to do your own forecasts. When I was a commercial fisherman we use to laugh at the forecasts.

Don't go in bad weather to experience it. I've seen people do it and some poor fisherman or Coast Guardsman has to come out and rescue them.
There are many books and some teachers. Maybe catch some rides with experienced boaters in boats similar in size to what you want.

 

[Mac G]

Let me rephrase the question:
How can I expect a twin screw semi-displacement GB to react in heavy weather?
What are her tendencies specifically in various points of sail in seas?

 

[Comodave]

Generally it will take more than you will. Basically stay out of really heavy weather. We had a 41President semi displacement trawler. Bringing it down the west coast we had it in 18’ quartering seas. It handled it fine. Going past the Columbia River I was sure we were going to die but the boat did great.

 

[Serene]

I don't claim to be an expert, but do have a similar vessel, although not the semi-planing style and certainly not capable of speeds some Grand Banks' can do, but in heavy weather I am not sure that speed would be useful anyway.

My vessel is a Blue Seas 36 Europa (Marine Trader equivalent in the US), full displacement and cruises at 7 knots with a single engine. No stabilisers either.

Couple of things to think about to get the conversation started;

1. Think about the tide state, direction of current vs wind direction AND depth. Even with the same wind speed, the waves can be vastly different depending on whether the wind and tide are opposite or in the same direction. Also shallower water tends to make the waves stand up steeper and possibly break.

2. Think about direction you need to travel vs the wave direction. Do not get beam onto the waves, it will be the worse motion you will experience and some of the rolls may be scary. Especially if the waves are breaking this can be dangerous.

Can you travel in a different direction to not have the waves beam on, but still have a base line of advance in the direction you need to travel? i.e. sort of like tacking in a sailing vessel.

3. If punching into a head sea, slow down. Let the buoyancy in the bow lift the vessel up and over the wave, rather than punch through it putting green water everywhere. Aim is to NOT take green water over the bow onto the forward windows.

4. If in a following sea, be aware that at slower speeds a vessel may tend to broach. Keep a lookout astern and be aware when the waves are lifting the stern and power up to give more steerage, or even possibly shift into reverse to hold the stern square to the waves. Don't apply so much power you drive the bow into the wave ahead. Would be easier with twin screws I would think, using split sticks.

Try not to let the vessel broach and end up side on to the waves.

5. With a quartering sea, again have a rear lookout and be aware when waves are approaching and potentially alter course to take the wave square to the transom until it passes, then alter back to original course.

As I said above, I don't profess to be an expert, so happy to take feedback. This is just from my most recent experience being caught in a 30 knot squall, with 2.5m (8 feet) steep breaking waves with a short period, over a shallow patch in North Moreton Bay, Australia. Tide was against wind and we had to hand steer for five hours to get home.

We were surprised by the conditions once we got out of the lee of Moreton Island, but had a deadline to be home. And yes I know deadlines and boating aren't supposed to mix. We would have been better off turning around and heading back to our anchorage, but I thought once we were off the shallow section it would get better, which it did to a degree.

I purposely headed out to sea to get into deeper water and off the shallow banks, then steered a course to take the waves on the stern quarter, but kept a watch stander looking astern and warning me when waves were approaching. I was hand steering and adjusting throttle.

In the middle of it we did NOT want to be there! It was not enjoyable, but the boat took more than we expected and at no time were we in peril.

I was on the log from my home port's Coast Guard and in touch with them by VHF, plus they knew our ETA. As well we had a Mumby cat (48' alloy sailing catamaran) following the same course and we were in visual range of each other the entire time.

In hindsight, I learned a lot about myself, my mate and the vessel. We also learned more about the local conditions, being new to this area and what to look for next time we pass that area.

But I would not like to be in the same situation again!

 

[Mac G]

Thank you for your detailed and thoughtful response.

 

[mvweebles]

Let me rephrase the question:
How can I expect a twin screw semi-displacement GB to react in heavy weather?
What are her tendencies specifically in various points of sail in seas?

What do you mean by heavy weather? I can assure you that what I may avoid at all costs (+Force 5-ish), a retired fisherman such as Lepke might consider a bit lumpy----a nuisance.

There comes a point where certain points of sail are not practical or even tenable. Beam seas. Short/steep/square chop. Following seas can be dangerous because of risk of broach.

How will a GB42 handle Force 7-ish seas aft of a few points off the bow? Boat will regularly heel to 30-degreee side to side which will feel like inversion to you. From time to time, it will hit an enlarged set of waves just right (wrong?) and the boat will go over even more. The inside of most powerboats is not designed to restrain contents so expect some interior damage.

Better to head into the seas, a couple points off directly into them. The GB42, unlike it's Taiwan trawler knock offs, has a fine entry bow that tend yo go through waves rather than over them. Makes for a wet ride but more comfortable. But heading into seas - even fairly large, short chop - at 3 kts can be fairly comfortable. But you have to give yourself time to do it which can be hard psychology if it involves a significant course change.

When I was delivering, +80% of my work was uphill into seas along the Pacific. I worried most about water intrusion from spray through windows and doors. Can be a mess and do some damage.

Peter

 

[Hippocampus]

I’m in the same situation as you. Prior blue water sailor now on a SD NT42. Very frustrated as what’s written is mostly applicable to “A” rated heavy displacement blue water powerboats. Although a newbie on power have learned the following.

Your present boat is not suitable for blue water nor true heavy weather. That’s the simple reality. Whereas on passage on everything from 28’ Bristol Channel cutter to 46’ Outbound had no concerns in heavy weather on the SD hull I’ve learned to accept she is just not suitable for such situations. She’s just not made for 20-30’ waves. To persevere with decks continually awash with green water and not to do well if pooped. She will not survive a knockdown or being momentarily overwhelmed. At best she can handle force 8 briefly. Even continuous force 5 is a big ask. I know mine is a “B” rated for force 8 but not with me on it if possible.
Given that how you view weather windows must change. You’re thinking about weather must change. So far have noticed the following.
To maintain a sensitive helm and not get pooped when going with the seas you need to go faster. Leave your hand on the throttle and vary speed to try to stay slightly faster than the wave train. Cut a slight angle if surfing down a sea to avoid burying the bow then go more perpendicular. If the stern starts to overtake the bow go perpendicular with a burst of throttle.
If going into the wave train slow down. Unlike ocean/offshore weather events in coastal settings are brief. Much more like the line squalls you’ve experienced when on passage. Again unlike the sailboat leave a hand on the throttle. The thing to avoid is having a wave force you backwards. If that happens your steering mechanisms may break. So you may need to increase throttle as you rise up on a wave. Unlike on a sailboat you may be able to pick your way through to some extent and avoid breaking waves. Take advantage of that. Unlike open water you need to pay attention to your surroundings in a different way when coastal. Seas will likely be different a short distance away. One side of the bay may be calmer. Farther out may have fewer breakers. Head lands or shoals may take some of the force out of the wave train. Running behind them at an appropriate distance maybe helpful. Use the good spots for as long as you can. It’s a different mindset set. If you’ve changed your mind set about weather you won’t be in prolonged events. Rather Tstorms or brief squalls so you just need to get through a few hours or even just a 1/2 hour or so.
The Allard Cole or even the Beebe rules don’t apply to a SD hull in some settings. They usually do as regards crossing a crest and “tacking” through seas. So keep that in mind.
I have a gyro so have made the mistake of under judging impact when running parallel to the wave train. SD hulls do this very poorly c/w a blue water sailboat. Avoid it if at all possible. You don’t want to expose the glass of the saloon to boarding seas ever.
So far it’s been Tstorms. Nothing worst. It changed my thinking. Now don’t move if probability is >30%

 

[Mac G]

Thank you Gentlemen

Those are the helpful comments that I was looking for which I can visualize and understand from my own background.
I know we now own a "fair weather" boat, but I want to start unlearning what I think I know or at least start re-training my mind to fit my this new vessel.
I recognize it is not longer business as usual when it comes to weather.
Thank you

 

[rslifkin]

The GB has a fairly fine bow, so I'd expect the ride to be fine upwind in a steep chop. It'll be wet, but it shouldn't pitch excessively and I wouldn't expect much slamming. Beam seas of any significant size are likely to be a bit unpleasant, as it'll roll, but more importantly, the roll is likely to be a bit quick and snappy at the ends with the squared off chines.

I'm not particularly familiar with the handling of the GBs in a following sea, although with moderate size rudders and a fairly fine bow, I'd expect you'll have to be a little bit careful in steeper seas to avoid digging the bow in and having it want to broach. But keep in mind you can always add a burst of extra throttle to get some extra rudder response when needed.

In any conditions, don't be afraid to experiment a bit with speed. That's a much more adjustable factor on a powerboat compared to sail, and in some conditions, speeding up or slowing down a bit can significantly improve the ride. Upwind, if the boat is starting to pound, that's usually a sign to slow down. Other times the ride sucks about the same at any speed, so might as well keep the speed up and get it over with. In a beam sea with the flatter aft sections, going faster will typically reduce roll and make the roll better damped. Downwind, it's just an experiment to find what the boat likes in the current conditions. Sometimes faster is better, other times you're too close to the speed of the waves and mushing around on top for too long. In those cases, if you can't speed up enough to run with or outrun the waves, it's often better to slow down a little and let the waves pass more quickly.

The GB42 will take quite a bit if operated reasonably. You're likely to be thinking "I don't want to do this anymore" before the boat is really struggling. There's that old story floating around about the guy who took one to Hawaii, and they've been out into the Carribean before as well.

 

[Mac G]

Yes. Thanks
It is those nuances of throttle control that I need to learn and practice that are not an option when sailing.
Thank you

 

[mvweebles]

GB 36 departing from La Cruz marina, near Puerto Vallarta MX. I briefly chatted with this couple w couple days ago when they paddle-boarded up to admire Weebles at anchor. They came down from California, at least 1200 nms north (we've done 1500 due to trip to La Paz). They are continuing south, though I didn't catch their overall cruising plans.

The GB 42 will easily do 175nm days (24 hr run) and has a range of a good 750 nms I suppose. That opens a lot of options for cruising. By picking the season and being patient with the weather, you can make serious distances even with short weather windows. Heavy weather (however you define it - my wife defines it much differently than I do so we go with her definition), can be avoided.

I know of a Willard 36 (in 1987) and a GB42 (circa 1999) that went from SoCal to Hawaii. Neither boat is designed for heavy weather, neither is a Class B CE Rating (didn't exist back then). I think the owners of these boats were a bit cavalier in making the trek but they chose their season well and did not get unlucky.

Bottom line, I always encourage people to go with the boat they own, but understand it's sweet spot. The GB 42 is not a Nordhavn, but is an affordable option for many and can still be cruised great distances affordably and comfortably. A decent subscription to PredictWind is $250/year and provides excellent weather routing.

Best of luck and have fun

Peter

 

[mvweebles]

....... BTW, the GB36 in the photo is a 1970 woodie with twin Ford Lehman 120s. Same age as Weebles.

My take on cruising these days is that my 1500 nms has mostly been a series of day trips. We have some runs with two overnights coming up as we approach Costa Rica but for the most part, weather can be absorbed easily without excess surprise.

Peter

 

[Sax]

I have owned a 1995 GB 42 Classic with twin Cat 3208 for ten years and have taken her around the Great Loop, the Downeast Loop and spent lots of time on the Chesapeake Bay. During those travels, we did find ourselves occasionally out in weather much worse than forecast. As others have mentioned, the boat will handle rough weather better than you will.

Our GB 42 handles well in sharp, steep head seas, albeit with a very wet ride. On days with blue water blowing through the bow hawsepipes and spray over the top of the flybridge, she is happy. Turning to put the seas on the forward quarter will further improve your ride. Speed changes below hull speed and throttle manipulation have little to no impact.

You will miss your sailboat when seas are large on the beam. The GB42 rolls sharply and requires you to hang on with both hands and keep both feet wide apart. I have not tried running fast in beam seas, due to fuel consumption. You might try that to improve your ride. Our boat is rock solid in the 13- 17 knot speed range. Trim tab operation at any speed is ineffective on my boat.

Our boat is not a fan of steep following seas. The autopilot just gives up and lets the stern get pushed all around. I have had days that I had to continuously, manually spin the wheel from lock to lock to keep her headed straight.

We always plan for rough conditions every time we go out. We stow, lock and secure everything below decks. Our biggest concern operating the boat in rough weather is if something requires me to leave the helm to my wife while I go below to deal with an issue in the engine room. Changing out a clogged fuel filter in the sea conditions described above would be a nightmare.

So, in answer to your specific question, there are no special rough handing techniques unique to the GB42 that I have discovered.

Pick your weather, stow your gear, maintain your propulsion/fuel systems and enjoy your boat.

 

[koliver]

I did not see what engines you have, nor the year of your GB. Both are indications of what to expect, as GB has gradually added power over the years and in the late 90s (?) upsized the molds to give the 42 several extra inches of beam.
Presumptions of "must be like mine" are likely made by several previous posters, and you may rely on those "like mine" posts only to find that they are not at all like yours.
GBs are a bluff bow, so going into any appreciable seas will bring a ton of water aboard that other, more flared bows will never see. Other trawlers with more keel than a GB will track better, boats designed for greater speed will not, as they will have less keel. Planing hulls tend to have less keel, down to none at all, so they get blown around when GBs and especially trawlers with lots of keel, don't.
What I suggest you do, is take your boat out in a variety of conditions and find out how it handles. In this process you will quickly find out what you can handle. First make sure everything aboard is secure. Then run your boat in every direction for a while, in as many different sea conditions as are offered in your area. Try to keep a log of the boat's handling in all of those different attitudes, noting especially those you wish to avoid.
Enjoy the journey.

 

[Mac G]

Yes. Thanks. Good advice.
We have a 1974 CLassic, one of the original heavy-duty overbuilt fiberglass models.
Personally crawled around in every bilge space and compartment to inspect her prior to purchase and found all tabbing and all structural members to be in very good condition.
She is built like a tank and has held up well.
Located and exercised every single thru too in the process of all that crawling around.
Have twin John Deere 135 HP reliable tractor engines which have been well maintained and I continue to do so.
Feel very good about the boat.
Just need to learn the nuances of throttling and what she can and cannot handle.
Thank you for your input.

 

[marcs]

GB 36 departing from La Cruz marina, near Puerto Vallarta MX. I briefly chatted with this couple w couple days ago when they paddle-boarded up to admire Weebles at anchor. They came down from California, at least 1200 nms north (we've done 1500 due to trip to La Paz). They are continuing south, though I didn't catch their overall cruising plans.

Sounds like that may be these folks. Login • Instagram

To operate in heavier weather in my GB42 it was necessary to add locking closures to all cabinets and drawers (at least those that open transversely, ie. side to side motion) and carefully ensure proper stowage of everything in the ER, laz, etc. so you don't foul the steering, engines or shafts, or make a big mess. This includes batteries. Additionally, without a fixed helm seat it was necessary to add securing straps for the helm chair I use. The original fridge and freezer latches are also questionable but I haven't replaced them yet and just make extra effort to ensure they are fully latched.

I'd also examine the mast including stays and supports both for condition and design, especially if there is a heavy radar up there. The radar mounted on the forward side caused it to start a twisting motion that required additional reinforcement.

As posted, it gets a bit of a snappy roll in beam seas. Not much to say about handling in seas that is specific to GB.

Be sure to inspect the fuel tanks to ensure there is no sediment build up from long leisurely use that will get dislodged in heavy seas.

Video is always hard and I don't have any great ones, but this gives an idea of motion in moderate but a bit confused seas.

Splash at 0:49 is actually hitting a Yeti cooler which is why I saved the video.

 

[mvweebles]

Sounds like that may be these folks. https://www.instagram.com/wanderingwhistler/.

Yes it is! Looks like they started in Bremerton WA in mid September. They've been down to Barra de Navidad which is 50 miles further south. Regardless, they've come a long way in a GB36. For those with normal boats who think about cruising but believe they need a larger or more robust boat, something to consider.

Peter

 

[Mako]

OP, pick up a copy of Rough Weather Seamanship for Sail and Power or other relevant books. They are enormously helpful. This thread is great but there is no way to cover this voluminous topic here alone.

However I will add one tip. When running downhill in heavy seas, keep the water flowing FORWARD over your little rudders. That means don't be afraid to hit the throttles, speed up, which seems counterintuitive when you're scared shotless in storm conditions, when all your body wants to do is slow down and curl up and cry.

Not that I've ever been there

 

[LenBuchanan]

As mentioned earlier, stow everything you can down below. We have books with bookends, they generally don't fly around but fall over. We have two small tables with some lamps. The lamps get laid down in a chair or couch. Our TV is always laid down. We do this REGULARLY. Even when we can see it is fairly calm seas. We have been in calm, relatively calm seas and have rounded a point and ran straight into 5 footers.
This is on the Great Lakes, where you mentioned possibly cruising. We regularly cruise Lake Michigan and have done Lake Superior. We have cruised all of the Great Lakes when we brought our boat back from New Jersey. Other than the rivers and Erie Canal, we are in the habit before we take off of ensuring everything that could fall over/fall down/get broken is down and secure. Makes life less stressful.

 

[koliver]

Yes. Thanks. Good advice.
We have a 1974 CLassic, one of the original heavy-duty overbuilt fiberglass models.
Personally crawled around in every bilge space and compartment to inspect her prior to purchase and found all tabbing and all structural members to be in very good condition.
She is built like a tank and has held up well.
Located and exercised every single thru too in the process of all that crawling around.
Have twin John Deere 135 HP reliable tractor engines which have been well maintained and I continue to do so.
Feel very good about the boat.
Just need to learn the nuances of throttling and what she can and cannot handle.
Thank you for your input.

That is a popular model here in SW BC. I cruise regularly with the identical boat, as to year and engines, and another iteration, only a few hull numbers apart, is also a cruising friend.
However, I wouldn't hazard a guess as to when the seas become too much for either of those friends, as that is a very personal measurement, involving experience, both of the skipper and separately, the first mate.
Enjoy your boat, report back when you get some noteworthy experience.

 

[Mac G]

The above is all very good advice, Gentlemen. Thanks
This is what I was looking for - I can read and visualize all of what you have described being fluent with the wind and with waves, just not with a GB yet.
Is just a matter of re-thinking my sailboat strategies and re-applying things differently now.
Thank you

 

[mvweebles]

The above is all very good advice, Gentlemen. Thanks
This is what I was looking for - I can read and visualize all of what you have described being fluent with the wind and with waves, just not with a GB yet.
Is just a matter of re-thinking my sailboat strategies and re-applying things differently now.
Thank you

Having done 1400 nms of more or less open-water coastal cruising in the company of a few dozen other boats, almost all of which are sailboats, I have one more observation that may be of interest to you even though we say it all the time. Perfect powerboat weather is avoided by sailors. We know that......but here's the rub: because sailors seek wind and therefore waves, they are more apt to get surprised by worse-than-expected weather. The GB42, like many (most?) of our boats have no more than about 3-days fuel so cannot get too far outside a reasonably reliable weather window.

Bottom line, risk of getting truly beaten-up during standard coastal cruising is manageable on a GB42-ish powerboat. While sailboats are instructive, there are some differences that make the powerboat comparison unnecessarily harsh. Powerboats are faster and tend towards milder weather in general.

Peter

 

[Figment]

However I will add one tip. When running downhill in heavy seas, keep the water flowing FORWARD over your little rudders. That means don't be afraid to hit the throttles, speed up...

I found this to be absolutely true when I was out in some short-duration 6-7s last fall. I increased speed to clear some commercial traffic and noticed that the autopilot was having a much easier time, so I kept the speed up and traded fuel for comfort for a couple of hours.


someone above posted something about water ingress in weather abeam or behind... yeah I've also found that to be true. The windows and hatches do just fine when the wind is forward, but with wind-driven rain on the beam I used every towel on the boat.

 

[Mako]

"...someone above posted something about water ingress in weather abeam or behind"

In the past in very heavy, steep following seas my cockpit would be constantly filled by the foaming breaking seas. Pooped. Thank God (and Jack Hargrave) that the boat was protected by a watertight bulkhead from the cockpit and lazarette underneath.

But I also found lots of leaks through various portholes, which were due to hardened and brittle gaskets. So a word of advice is to replace those gaskets, which is something most people never think about until it's too late. Not me of course

The other weakness in most boats, even heavy displacement LRC Cheoy Lees and Defevers, is those sliding windows in the salon. If you're targeting some long range cruising to remote areas then consider replacing and rebedding windows. A real pain in the butt, but I imagine alot of boats have been lost due to downflooding in this regards.

 

[GoneFarrell]

I made some clear flaps for my sliding windows that cut down the water ingress substantially.

 

[Cap Steve]

Great advice from Sax. I’ve got over 20 years experience with our 42’ GB Motor Yacht in all kinds of weather. Used to go out, pre marriage, in any kind of weather. We always have two anchors ready to deploy in worse case scenario, all the hatches battened, everything stowed (a practice we maintain when ever we go out), and the decks clear for water and free movement. Heavy weather and waves are best approached by tacking, separate throttle control, no auto pilot or synch. The 42’s have fairly dry decks, as compared to the 32’ and 36’s, but definitely take some water over the bow.
Following seas take the most work, steering and speed to match the seas, although the stern does lift well. We have our tender on the swim step so need extra precaution and watch needed. She doesn’t like beam seas at all, so we come around fast and timed with the seas to change course / tack. Otherwise she handles great 15-45 degrees off dead ahead into the waves. You can plot a course with a fair amount of comfort.
Our travels are on the Salish Seas with mostly north and south winds. I prefer to move with the tides and wind in the same direction, far less confused seas, even when we maybe working against the tides. We do work the shoreline when opposing the tide to catch the slip. When making longer crossings, we find it worth waiting for calmer weather, beam seas are not what these boats are designed for. But we’ve been through Johnstone Straits in all kinds of conditions and smiled through as we grip the helm tightly.
All that said, the Empress and I are full time onboard and we have no problem hanging around an anchorage or dock for a few days longer waiting out the weather. But if we find ourselves in a changing weather situation, stow everything that can fly, put on the foulies and have fun.

 

[Mac G]

Cap Steve - Question.
When you say "separate throttle controls" are you saying for tacking or squaring your stern to the waves of a following sea or both? More so than using the helm?
We used throttles to weave around lobster pots on our cruise home from Maine so would not have to disengage autopilot. But agree, in rough weather, prefer to hand steer so would not use autopilot but would like to hear more about the technique you are suggesting.

Mako- Question
Would like to hear more about the situation that was pooping your aft deck because our aft hatches are not water tight and the bilge space below freely runs into the lowest bilge of the boat in the engine room.
So would like to know the sea state and wind conditions that were causing that; and what was your speed?

Peter- yes, when was sailing a heavy air day was welcomed to make good distance and time. Two reefs in the main, a small jib, set the Aires on a rhumbline course, put on foul weather gear and eat a cold baloney sandwich on deck.
Now, if we wake up and it is like that we are leaving the dinghy in the water and the anchor on the bottom because we will be staying put for another night, or two, or whatever.

 

[psneeld]

Cap Steve - Question.
When you say "separate throttle controls" are you saying for tacking or squaring your stern to the waves of a following sea or both? More so than using the helm?
We used throttles to weave around lobster pots on our cruise home from Maine so would not have to disengage autopilot. But agree, in rough weather, prefer to hand steer so would not use autopilot but would like to hear more about the technique you are suggesting.

Mako- Question
Would like to hear more about the situation that was pooping your aft deck because our aft hatches are not water tight and the bilge space below freely runs into the lowest bilge of the boat in the engine room.
So would like to know the sea state and wind conditions that were causing that; and what was your speed?

Peter- yes, when was sailing a heavy air day was welcomed to make good distance and time. Two reefs in the main, a small jib, set the Aires on a rhumbline course, put on foul weather gear and eat a cold baloney sandwich on deck.
Now, if we wake up and it is like that we are leaving the dinghy in the water and the anchor on the bottom because we will be staying put for another night, or two, or whatever.

Your Autopilot doesn't have a feature to just change a degree or a few at a time? Or a "dodge" feature?

 

[Mac G]

Under more extreme conditions I have found humans to be much better at steering wave than any autopilot