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Old 08-15-2019, 04:37 PM   #1
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MS 34 T/HT Fwd Cabin Sole Upgrade

Several people have expressed interest in a project I've mentioned and I thought the best way to share might be to post a thread outlining the project. Eventually I plan to add a "Project" to my Bacchus website but this is more expediant than modifying the website.

Our '08 MS 34HT Fwd Cabin carpet was in less than stellar shape when we bought the boat and replacement / upgrade was always on my long list of projects. My wife had little interest in carpet and I thought this was the opportunity to get rid of the only piece of factory "wall to wall" carpet. I explored several options and had prior experience on our last boat replacing a cabin sole w/ a plastic plank material that was water proof. It came out great but was a lot of work fitting the individual planks.

I had already added PlasDeck immitation teak to our aft / side decks and was very pleased w/ the results. MS used Plasteak sheet vinyl for our galley, head & saloon flooring and it was easy to keep clear and attractive. While exploring the PlasTeak for interior applications I noticed they also sold a thin sheet padding that could be used as a cushioning, sound absorbing layer. I was concerned that that would add the necessity to trim any hatch opennings which woupd prove difficult as the onein the fwd cabin had rounded corners. I inquired and was told that trim was optional but not necessary... the sheet vinyl over the pad without trim or edge support was done routinely. The factory provided samples and said that with a tight fitting hatch the edge & pad were barely visible and if noticable could be colored to match the flooring with a felt tipped furniture scratch repair pen or colored Sharpie.

Decision made to go with teak & Holly to match the galley, head & saloon and to use the pad.

I made the template using Tyvek house wrap material (recommended by the factory) which is a good stable template material and more than adequate if there aren't a lot of hatches / cut outs req'd where they recommend a clear template material they also supply.
Their template tips helped a lot and I cut the material sightly undersize so it would lie perfectly flat. Cut "V" shaped opennings - folded the center of the "V" under and taped the template in several places to ensure it wouldn't move. next I made a one inch spacer block that would allow me to place it anywhere along an interior wall or verticle surface and draw the exact template shape one inch undersize on all locations except one - the entry doorway. The factory said to just indicate on the templates which lines were "actual" vs the one inch undersize and they would compensate.

I opted to have the factory cut my pad and flooring for the fwd cabin - I did the cutting of the entryway immediately outside the cabin / head from the scrap piece from under the bed.

The factory advised and supplied 2 different adhesives - one for material being attached to fiberglass (pad to floor & verticle trim to risers) and a second for attaching the finished flooring to the pad.

Attachment was fairly easy and accomplished by laying out each layer to assure fit and placement - removing the top layer leaving the pada in place - rolling back approx half / one side of the bed, applying adhesive and unrolling the material onto the adhesive. I then rolled it with a hand roller to ensure adhesion. roll back the second half and repeat.
Repeat again for the top layer using the appropriate adhesive.

I left the hatch for last and actually did the work at home in the shop. Removing the carpet from the fiberglas opening and the hatch itself left a large gap. When I templated I made the edge of the floor the openning/ cut out. The mating piece they supplied had a very narrow cut kerf and fit closely. at home I simply cut a new hatch backing board to exactly match the hatch flooring and beveled the edge to provide clearance at the bottom / middle with the exact fit at the top. I glued the pad & finish flooring to the backer board. I made the board slightly under for thickness and added a thin layer of carpet non-skid to the lip that held the hatch to make it flush and quiet for placement.

Lastly I bought enough solid wood grained material (cherry w/ no holley strip) to use on the vertical risers that were carpeted. These include the steps on each side of the bed (I left the small odd shaped carpet on each step top) and the step up to the galley level.

Results more than met expectations and I have gotten many compliments on the look and feel - especially the soft feel with the pad under the vinyl.
Pics before w/ old stained carpet - after finished product.
unfortunately I was too busy to take any in-process shots while I went.

Any additional questions - shoot me a PM - happy to answer them.
Attached Thumbnails
Carpet 1.jpg   Carpet 2.jpg   Carpet 3.jpg   Sole 1.jpg   Sole 2.jpg  

Sole 3.jpg  
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:42 PM   #2
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Looks very nice. Good job!
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:27 PM   #3
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Very well done, looks great.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:28 PM   #4
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I'm not ready to go that far yet on the floor of my 2006 34T. I do, however, want to replace the carpet in the salon. Never having attempted this on a boat, I would like to know what's under the carpet and how is the carpet attached to the boat? Also wondering if I should have a professional do the job?
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Old 08-19-2019, 01:52 PM   #5
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My fwd cabin carpet was glued down. Cleaning & prepping the surface was the biggest & toughest part of the job.
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Old 08-19-2019, 02:39 PM   #6
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Don,

Looks great! Many thanks for posting all your projects and upgrades...its been a great resource for all us other 34T folks.

I only wish I had seen this before we replaced the carpeting last year! Yours looks much better.

Cheers

Bryan
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Old 08-23-2019, 01:29 PM   #7
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Beautiful job meticulously done. We have carpeting and would like to replace it. Guess I put it on the back burner.

Perfect job, thanks for sharing.

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Old 08-23-2019, 02:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trawlerdeejay View Post
I'm not ready to go that far yet on the floor of my 2006 34T. I do, however, want to replace the carpet in the salon. Never having attempted this on a boat, I would like to know what's under the carpet and how is the carpet attached to the boat? Also wondering if I should have a professional do the job?
trawlerdeejay
When I had my upholstery shop, we used a contact adhesive sprayed on the floor and carpet backing. You can use Henry's from home improvement stores. It's not to expensive usually.


https://www.amazon.com/Henry-MultiPr...language=en_US
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Old 08-23-2019, 07:34 PM   #9
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That looks great, Don!
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trawlerdeejay View Post
I would like to know what's under the carpet and how is the carpet attached to the boat? Also wondering if I should have a professional do the job?
trawlerdeejay
Mine had padding adhered to the fiberglass sole and carpet adhered to the pad. Worst part of the job was prep... removing carpet not too bad but pulling pad left remnants of pad & adhesive that took work to get up. I had best results using heat gun & sharp scraper w acetone wipe for final cleaning.
I doubt you could get the carpet up w/o disturbing the pad.
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacchus View Post
Mine had padding adhered to the fiberglass sole and carpet adhered to the pad. Worst part of the job was prep... removing carpet not too bad but pulling pad left remnants of pad & adhesive that took work to get up. I had best results using heat gun & sharp scraper w acetone wipe for final cleaning.
I doubt you could get the carpet up w/o disturbing the pad.
Was there an unevenness to the actual sole? I always faired the floor with something light and easy to sand. Then a coat of paint, usually white interlux.I then put the carpet right on the sole. The only reason I used padding was when the carpet was a thin pile or short berber type. I prefer snap-in carpet sections that can be removed and washed off the boat. Sometimes not doable on larger boats.
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Old 08-25-2019, 06:16 AM   #12
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Was there an unevenness to the actual sole? I always faired the floor with something light and easy to sand. Then a coat of paint, usually white interlux.I then put the carpet right on the sole. The only reason I used padding was when the carpet was a thin pile or short berber type. I prefer snap-in carpet sections that can be removed and washed off the boat. Sometimes not doable on larger boats.
Sole was pretty flat once all the remnants of pad and adhesive were removed.
I had to fair some spots on previous boat when I used planks. The toughest spots to handle are any raised bumps. Had a few on previous boat that i used 60 grit sandpaper and ground them down.
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Old 08-25-2019, 11:06 AM   #13
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Sole was pretty flat once all the remnants of pad and adhesive were removed.
I had to fair some spots on previous boat when I used planks. The toughest spots to handle are any raised bumps. Had a few on previous boat that i used 60 grit sandpaper and ground them down.
This is the reason I don't glue carpet down.

Besides, 99% of my plywood floor in the lower area are removable.
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:12 PM   #14
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This is the reason I don't glue carpet down.

Besides, 99% of my plywood floor in the lower area are removable.
What do you use to keep the carpet down and stop wrinkling?
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:36 PM   #15
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What do you use to keep the carpet down and stop wrinkling?
I posted this on another thread about carpeting:

My carpet on the boat lays on the floor, not fastened and covers hatches.

I use a high quality commercial berber with a thick heavy backing. Backing that is solid and does not crumble or lose debris.

I lay the new carpet face down on top of the garage floor covered with visqueen.

I lay the old carpet face down on top of the new carpet and trace it's outline on the back of the new carpet with a Sharpie pen.

I cut along the outline with a hot knife sliding a 1/4" board under the carpet to provide a soft cutting surface. The hot knife melts the edge of the carpet, sealing it from unraveling making binding the edges unnecessary.

The new carpet is placed on the boat floor. I heat the area as hot as I can get it for a couple hours, which settles the carpet flat. If there are any humps or curled corners, I'll place boards or boxes over the spot until they flatten. Some trimming may be required but wait a few days until the carpet has settled and also walked on.

For the hot knife, I use a Weller soldering gun with a rope cutting blade.
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:39 PM   #16
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I have bound the edges with Sunbrella binding or facing. Also have used silicone caulk to bind the edges. I like to snap the carpet down instead of glueing it down. Much easier to change the carpet also easier to clean it if it gets a spill on it. Just unsnap it and take it out on the dock and hose it off.
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:11 PM   #17
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I guess the discussion has turned into a carpet one?
Another option for edges is to use a glue gun to lay some hot melt along the edge of the back side and flatten / work it into the backing with a putty knife. Stops the unraveling.
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:21 PM   #18
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I guess the discussion has turned into a carpet one?
Another option for edges is to use a glue gun to lay some hot melt along the edge of the back side and flatten / work it into the backing with a putty knife. Stops the unraveling.

An industrial carpet installation supply store carries a liquid binding that you apply to the edges to prevent unraveling. It's latex based.

I used it once to stop debris from loosening from the carpet backing Sand or some other substance was bonded into the backing to increase weight to hold the carpet flat. Some of it crumbled off every time I rolled the carpet up to open floor hatches. I rolled the liquid binding on the back of the carpet to seal the backing.
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:27 AM   #19
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Looks great Don.
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:43 PM   #20
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Beautiful job, you added significantly to the value of her!
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