06 34 T Seawater strainer

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DonW28

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2019
Messages
135
Location
USA
Vessel Make
2006 Mainship 34T
My mechanic called today and said the glass portion of the seawater strainer was cracked and he recommended replacement. The only thing he could find on it as for identification was Warine. Does anyone have any information that could help as to parts before we buy a new one like a Groco.



Don
 
I had a similar problem with my sea-strainer. When I replace the bowl, it was apparent the holes needed to enlarged a bit to properly line up.
The minor misalignment was enough to cause a stress on the bowl resulting in a crack on the lip.
 
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Don
See. http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45262
I had a cracked bowl on 2 and my yard got me 4 replacements so they are readily available.
I dont know the source but a search should locate them.
Have you looked at the MS 34 T/HT BOM I posted links to?
If not you can find directions and link on my Bacchus website. I'd look for you but working from phone right now.
Don
 
Don
Back to laptop... attached is the MS part photo with info.
I'm a bit confused as mine is also marked (cast in) "Warine Hardware" but I'm wondering if the "M" was a mistake in the casting - I can find "Marine" Hardware listing the exact part with the "Saesum" reference and it looks identical to mine.
I'm also a little confused by the Doemtic reference and MA750 part # for the 2" size strainer as my 3/4" ones for gen, raw water and A/C are marked 750 not the 2" size - it may just be a typo but this should give you enough to find what you need.
A good supplier should have or be able to get these - Fisheries Supply lists them but doesn't show the 2.00" size (smaller & larger)
Ill also attach the photo of mine and guessing your is the same.(last photo)

https://www.myinboardmarine.com/pro...-marine-hardware?_pos=15&_sid=30449611e&_ss=r

Found the Marine Hardware Inc catalog online with a complete listing and replacement parts - see
Welcome to Marine Hardware and you can download the complete catalog
 

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Hey Don,
Thank you very much. We found the part and you saved me some serious money over a new Groco. Not sure why mine was stamped with Warine rather than Marine but the problem is solved. Thanks again,


Don
 
Sure - no problem Glad to share info and I learn something along the way.
I got replacements for my smaller ones at the same time and have replaced one already - rest are in the spare parts bid just in case.
 
Greetings,
The first thing that comes to mind with Warine as opposed to Marine is dyslexia.


200.webp
Type setting has to be a dead art. Imagine trying to differentiate and position similar looking letters has to be confusing. There has to a lot of them out there as it is molded in the casting so the mold is off.
 
Yeah, the strainers on my '05 400 were made by a company called Marine Hardware. They are still in business and will sell you a replacement glass (it's plastic, BTW). I replaced the glass in mine a couple of years ago, they had them in stock and they were reasonably priced. Here's a link.


Welcome to Marine Hardware
 
We lost the strainer basket overboard (don't ask) and ordered a new one from Marine Hardware in November so they are still in business and will sell direct to the consumer.
 
Greetings,
The first thing that comes to mind with Warine as opposed to Marine is dyslexia.


200.webp

Maybe a Chinaman working at low wages in Wuchan.
 
My strainer has the same marks ( Warine Hardware) I guess they forgot to turn the M around before the casting?
 
I have the same strainer and have a question regarding removing the top to access the basket. 2 of my strainers will accept a 1/2" drive socket wrench however 1 of the strainers the square recess is a little smaller and the 1/2" drive will not seat. Is there a different tool I should be using? Maybe a 7/16" square drive?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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Get an open end wrench on one of the ears, brace it on the other ear. I think I use a 7/8 inch wrench. Remember, you dont have to torque the down.
 
Ah yes, Marine Hardware is still in business.
Great folks. Call them and they will ship you the baskets.
When you are ordering one, order 2 or 3.
See what they have on hand. If you exceed the on-hand number, they have to come out of the west coast.

Remember, that bale handle is there for a purpose. It shows when the strainer is properly seated. Dont crush it.
If one or both sides of the bale break loose, a short stainless screw will add new life to the strainer.
 
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Thanks, I thought about doing that but hesitated because one of the ears is bent (looks like someone used a hammer). I'll try spraying a penetrant first and see if I can leverage it loose on the unbent ear.
 
I have the same strainer and have a question regarding removing the top to access the basket. 2 of my strainers will accept a 1/2" drive socket wrench however 1 of the strainers the square recess is a little smaller and the 1/2" drive will not seat. Is there a different tool I should be using? Maybe a 7/16" square drive?

Thanks,
Steve

Perhaps a ''crow's foot'' would work if it fits down between the cup sides.
 
on this model does anyone know the exact part to buy for a cap that i can use to attatch to use for flush? seems the threads are hard to match ?
 
Thanks, I thought about doing that but hesitated because one of the ears is bent (looks like someone used a hammer). I'll try spraying a penetrant first and see if I can leverage it loose on the unbent ear.

Remove the basket, get your wet/dry vacuum and vacuum out the strainer body.
You may have to reprime the pump by opening the hull valve with a loose strainer bod cap. When the water overflows the strainer body, your pump should be primed.

The top is supposed to be finger tight. Sometimes I need a breaker bar to begin loosing. I use a 3/4 inch combination wrench. (I checked this time.) Hook the open end of the wrench on one ear and the length of the wrench against the other ear.
Grease the cap threads to make the next time easier.
Hope this helps
 
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Flush cap

I'm actually looking for the proper flush cap for this strainer.

I bought the plastic ones but for some reason they don't thread in all the way.

I want to use it to run some descaler& fresh water through the engine.
 
Make one using a spare cap and ball valve
 
I had a similar problem with my sea-strainer. When I replace the bowl, it was apparent the holes needed to enlarged a bit to properly line up.
The minor misalignment was enough to cause a stress on the bowl resulting in a crack on the lip.

For my AT34 I use the following:
He has baskets too.
Call Marine Hardware, Ormond Beach FL
8005265971 or 3866770687
 
on this model does anyone know the exact part to buy for a cap that i can use to attatch to use for flush? seems the threads are hard to match ?
I looked for the same and could only conclude that a replacement cap from Marine Hardware was the only choice. I didn't like the price and decided to add a "T" in the inlet moving the hose barb to the opposite end and adding a capped hose fitting to the T.
I use it to easily winterize the A/C cooling system is more difficult as the pumpnwill not self prime.
I suck pink AF & winterize the raw water system first then use my raw water faucet to pressurize the A/C system.
I can do the same w raw water if/when the A/C pump doesn't prime after launching.
 
Square drive sockets are available as actual "socket" attachments. I have several bought from Snap on.
THey are likely available from other tool mfgr..

If the misfit is slight then get a cheaper one and grind it to fit.
 
Or grind the strainer cap to fit.
I have had/made some special tools only to have them disappear when workers was onboard or I lose them
 
What is the size of the zirk fitting on the bronze ball valve and what type of grease do you use?
 
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