Slow Hand 2023 To Lake Superior and back

[O C Diver]

So an update:

After the Black River, I spent 3 days in the Apostle Islands and 2 days at Pike's Bay Marina near Bayfield. Was able to do some hiking on 3 of the islands and spend some time with Sean and his family. Met Brad at Pike's and was able to go out to dinner with Jerry (friend from Fort Myers who keeps a boat in Port Superior). It was great to meet everyone and take a more leisurely pace.

Many of the islands are part or the National Park. Some have trails; most have docks for atleast tying a dinghy to. I would describe most of them as easy comfortable walks. Some have lots of history with relics; others have lighthouses, and some are just fun to stop with friends and get off the boat. For people who boat in the area, there are numerous choice, so it's hard to imagine getting bored with the same old island.

Some pictures:

NPS map of the Apostles showing docks and some trails.


The lighthouse built in 1881 on Sand Island.


Sunrise off of Otter Island.


A nice view from the overlook at Rocky Island.


3 different types of waterfowl off the beach of Rocky.


With so many islands, it seems near impossible not to find a nice lee anchorage for the night. This one is off Rocky Island where I think 6 of us were anchored for the night.


Ted

 

[O C Diver]

So the weather on Superior is starting to change.

Left Pike's on August 5th around 5am and reached a protected anchorage on the Keweenaw waterway around 11pm, to avoid forecasted winds.

After a couple of nights in Houghton, a day's travel brought me to Marquette where I anchored in their protected "Harbor of Refuge". It gusted to 30 knots on the Lake the next day.

Next morning were rolly beam seas for 6 hours to Munising. Took a slip in the marina to get pizza and beer from the local microbrewery and hike Picture Rocks National Park. Day one the wind gusted 35 knots out of the North. Day 2 it was down to 20 knots, so I hiked.

Left this morning at 4am to leave Superior. Will round Whitefish Point within the hour, and anchor in the beginning of the St. Mary's River this evening. Wind has swung to the North 15 gusting to 20 knots. It's supposed to blow Wednesday evening through Friday evening in the upper 20's. I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I know when Mother Nature is telling me to LEAVE NOW!

Harbor of Refuge at Marquette. I anchor near the green anchor symbol. The breakwater running North and South is about 15' tall.


Leaving in the morning passing the breakwater light.




One of the many waterfalls on the Picture Rocks trail.


On the beach below the waterfalls.


Sands Point park.






Lighthouse and shipwreck museum at Whitefish Point.


Ted

 

[mncruiser]

It was great to have you up here Ted! Apologies we did not have more time to hang out.

Until next time!

Sean, Pam and the kids!

 

[O C Diver]

After anchoring at the top of the St. Mary's River on Monday evening, I locked out of Lake Superior Tuesday and came down the St, Mary's River to Lake Huron. The forecast for Thursday and Friday was Small Craft Advisories on the lakes with 5 to 8' seas. I decided to hide in Whitney Bay as I did in June. With an extra day before the blow, I decided to go hike Lime Island, a Michigan state park.

Lime Island is a few miles off Lake Huron up the St. Mary's River. The shipping channel goes right by it. Originally the island was a coal fueling terminal during the age of steam powered ships. Later the island switched from coal to oil when the steam powered ships converted. As ships grew in size, it became more practical to fuel the ships at the loading and unloading terminals. Eventually the state of Michigan acquired the island as a park with some cottages and a harbor.

If you're transiting the St. Mary's River it's a nice stop. The breakwater was the refueling dock where ships moored to take on coal or fuel oil. Inside the breakwater the depth is about 20' with padded 6 x 6 wood beams to keep you off the concrete bulkhead. There are also bollards about every 50' and substantial eyes recessed into the bulkhead. Top of the bulkhead is about 4' above the water. The side tie area is about 200' long. Across from the bulkhead is a new dock that is primarily for smaller boats for people staying in the cabins. There is one tee head that can accommodate a larger boat. Overnight dockage is $25 regardless of vessel size. There is no water, electric, or pump out at the dock. I believe there is water available on the island to fill a container, but not near the docks. The harbor is protected from all but South and Southeast winds.

I would describe the trails through the island as walking paths wide enough for a vehicle. There are couple of beaches for swimming with the water being clear and in the low 70s. While I didn't see much wildlife, the paths are well maintained with much of them being canopied by tall trees.

In conclusion, I would say it's a nice stop and protected if waiting out weather. Probably a nice stop for a boating family for a couple of days.

Some pictures:

This picture is not North up. Probably the best viewing location for the oar boats as the shipping channel is so close to the breakwater.


The walking paths.


Layout of the area near the harbor.


The harbor area.


Sailboat on the tee head.


Cabins on the hill with the resident volunteer's cabin to the right.


Buildings from the refueling business with large fuel oil tanks in the background.


Apparently the state of Michigan doesn't think boaters are very smart.


This will make you do a double take. Looks to be somebody's home. Not sure if it's repurposed, or a full size replica.




Ted

 

[Jeff F]

That's the bow from all old Laker, the John W Boardman. Brought in by barge, and turned into a unique cottage. Neat project, and they painted it in original colors.
https://pasty.com/discus/messages/8345/8779.html

 

[O C Diver]

That's the bow from all old Laker, the John W Boardman. Brought in by barge, and turned into a unique cottage. Neat project, and they painted it in original colors.
https://pasty.com/discus/messages/8345/8779.html

Thanks for the rest of the story!

Ted

 

[FWT]

Ted, just so you know, your posts are enjoyable. Not much to comment on. But reading it all with interest.

 

[O C Diver]

Ted, just so you know, your posts are enjoyable. Not much to comment on. But reading it all with interest.

Thanks!

Ted

 

[O C Diver]

After 2 days of hiding from 30 to 40 knot winds and 5 to 8' seas, it's time to get back underway again. Heading out across Lake Huron from the Upper to the Lower Peninsula of Michigan.

My hideaway in Whitney Bay.




The North winds and seas from yesterday have fallen out. A calm Lake Huron this morning.


It's good to be underway again!

Ted

 

[Wayfarer]

I had to work late last night, but I was able to sleep in til about 1030 this morning,

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below,
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a boat called Slow Hand and Sir Ted the reindeer!

I had to wait for the same blow you did. It’s been feeling a little Novembery around here for the last few days. Nice day for it today, though. Safe travels Slow Hand!

 

[O C Diver]

I had to work late last night, but I was able to sleep in til about 1030 this morning,

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below,
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a boat called Slow Hand and Sir Ted the reindeer!

I had to wait for the same blow you did. It’s been feeling a little Novembery around here for the last few days. Nice day for it today, though. Safe travels Slow Hand!View attachment 141611

I saw Manitowoc on the AIS this morning but had forgotten you might be on it. Still have enough mayonnaise.

BTW, it's gotten lumpy out here this afternoon.

So I have a question:
We're you doing a crazy Ivan (Hunt for Red October) to make sure you weren't being followed, or just missed your turn?



Safe travels Wayfarer!

Ted

 

[Wayfarer]

I saw Manitowoc on the AIS this morning but had forgotten you might be on it. Still have enough mayonnaise.



BTW, it's gotten lumpy out here this afternoon.



So I have a question:

We're you doing a crazy Ivan (Hunt for Red October) to make sure you weren't being followed, or just missed your turn?



View attachment 141612



Safe travels Wayfarer!



Ted

Yeah, do you ever just space out when you’re on the way to the grocery store or something? You just get super involved in some random thought process, and forget that you’re going somewhere. You’re still paying attention and driving safely, but the autopilot is doing all the thinking.

That’s definitely not what happened, lol. We had to clean out the cargo holds, and we have to be a certain distance off shore when we do

 

[O C Diver]

Yeah, do you ever just space out when you’re on the way to the grocery store or something? You just get super involved in some random thought process, and forget that you’re going somewhere. You’re still paying attention and driving safely, but the autopilot is doing all the thinking.

That’s definitely not what happened, lol. We had to clean out the cargo holds, and we have to be a certain distance off shore when we do

I knew there had to be a reason.
Actually, I knew there had to be a plausible story to cover falling asleep in the chair.

Ted

 

[Jeff F]

I had to wait for the same blow you did. It’s been feeling a little Novembery around here for the last few days.

Hey Dave, I'm curious about this. What causes you to wait? Sea conditions, or entering/exiting port, or ?

I was holed up at Cove Island about 100 miles east of you guys.

 

[Wayfarer]

Hey Dave, I'm curious about this. What causes you to wait? Sea conditions, or entering/exiting port, or ?

I was holed up at Cove Island about 100 miles east of you guys.

Yeah we had to back into a really narrow port at Charlevoix, MI. The wind and seas were right on the beam and too much to do it safely, so I dropped the hook and waited for it to die down.

 

[O C Diver]

Time for another update:

When last I posted (08.19.23), I had left Whitney Bay and was heading down Lake Huron. In post #311 I said it was getting lumpy. The forecast was SW winds 10 to 15 knots in the afternoon. They lied! 15 to 25 knots out of the SE. Thankfully I was off the lake before it became more than the occasional 6'. Weather had became more hit and miss taking 8 days to cover 4 days of travel.

I ended up spending some weather days in 3 marinas with in "Harbors of Refuge", which is the feature of this post. Most of the Great Lakes have Harbors of Refuge (that you can anchor in), but some states (such as Michigan) have municipal marinas with quite attractive prices and a requirement that a percentage of the marina is only for transient dockage. On this trip through Lake Huron I stayed in municipal marinas at Harrisville, East Tawas, and Port Sanilac. Each marina is clean and well maintained. For my 50' LOA vessel the price ranged from $57 to $67 per night including 50 amp electric. That's hard to beat! There are small towns or a small city associated with each. Hard to pass up filling the water tanks, pump the holding, cooks night out, and the ice cream store for that price.

This is Harrisville municipal marina with a small town next to it.


This is East Tawas municipal marina with a small city next to it. The picture is dated as the marina was redone a few years ago with a different floating dock configuration but the same breakwater. Plenty of stores and restaurants here to occupy a weather day.


This is Port Sanilac municipal marina with a small town next to it. Another nice stop.


This is Harbor Beach municipal marina which I stopped at in 2017.


Ted

 

[fryedaze]

Won't be long and you will be out of all that big water. Enjoy

 

[Jeff F]

These photos of Slow Hand in Lorain Harbor came across my Facebook feed recently.

 

[O C Diver]

These photos of Slow Hand in Lorain Harbor came across my Facebook feed recently.View attachment 141791View attachment 141792

Yes, left Kelley's Island above Sandusky on Saturday and was able to tuck in behind the breakwater before the blow. Hid for a day and a half before being able to move up to Fairport yesterday.

Heading to Erie, PA (Presque Isle) to hide from tonight / tomorrow's blow. Seems to be a recurring theme. Two more travel days and then I eat my way across the Erie canal.

Ted

 

[drillguy]

I am ashamed to admit that I haven’t visited here in a long time, I had to request my password from the site as I couldn’t remember it, but I wanted to check back in because I saw a boat this morning that I immediately recognized the name of from back when I was a daily visitor here. A quick search showed me your thread of your adventure. We did Lake superior’s south shore and Isle Royale two years ago. Looks as though you had and are having a great time. Thanks for refreshing the memories and safe travels!

 

[O C Diver]

I am ashamed to admit that I haven’t visited here in a long time, I had to request my password from the site as I couldn’t remember it, but I wanted to check back in because I saw a boat this morning that I immediately recognized the name of from back when I was a daily visitor here. A quick search showed me your thread of your adventure. We did Lake superior’s south shore and Isle Royale two years ago. Looks as though you had and are having a great time. Thanks for refreshing the memories and safe travels!

Hi Mark,
Thought I was going to hangout in Tonawanda for a couple of days incognito. Much appreciate the picture and sorry I wasn't here to say hi. It's my third trip to Isle Royale, and gets better each time I go. Hard not to have a great time in Superior.

Like the shirt says:


Safe Travels!

Ted

 

[Old Sea Dog]

Never gets old.

 

[David Rive]

Hi Ted...

Long time no see... too long. I am so glad to see you are still cruising Slow Hand. Lots of changes in my life. Will spend the winter in FL (Jan in the keys, Feb up and down the Gulf coast) Would love to connect when we are in Ft Myers. We will be RVing, but I am seriously thinking about getting another American Tug. Really miss Loons Nest. Keep well old friend, and fair winds.

David Rive

 

[Bigsfish]

Hi David. Great to hear from you and getting another boat. Congrats.

 

[O C Diver]

Long time no see... too long. I am so glad to see you are still cruising Slow Hand. Lots of changes in my life. Will spend the winter in FL (Jan in the keys, Feb up and down the Gulf coast) Would love to connect when we are in Ft Myers. We will be RVing, but I am seriously thinking about getting another American Tug. Really miss Loons Nest. Keep well old friend, and fair winds.

David Rive

David, it's been a long time (4+ years?).

Will be hanging out in Fort Myers for the winter. It would be good to catch up. PM me in January so that we can make a plan.

Ted

 

[O C Diver]

Going back to August on Lake Erie, the one other stop I wanted to mention was Erie, PA , specifically Presque Isle. Traveling East to West down the Southern shore of Lake Erie, there are almost no natural harbors of refuge. Presque Isle stands in sharp contrast and is a great stop when traveling in either direction. Presque Isle is a state park with walking and bicycle trails, beaches, ponds and waterways to kayak or dinghy ride on, and one of the most protected spots to wait out bad weather.

This is the park in relationship to Erie, PA.


The entrance faces NE (to the right in the picture).


The blue dot is where I'm anchored. There is also a municipal marina there, should you prefer. They're very accommodating should you want to anchor out but need a pumpout or fill your water tanks. NW in the anchorage is where the channel starts if you want to dinghy ride or kayak. The satellite pictures were taken during the winter / spring. During the summer the entire park is green with much of the smaller ponds covered in lily pads with an amazing amount of flowers.


This picture gives you some idea of the bicycle and walking paths.


I went in on the 29th and waited through 30 knot winds on the 30th. Unfortunately there was intermittent rain on the 30th which kept me boat bound. I should have stayed an extra day to play, but getting off lake Erie seemed a higher priority, bad choice.

Ted

 

[O C Diver]

After spending a couple of nights in Presque Isle, I moved to Dunkirk and tied to their free pier. It was Ok for the night, but you need big fenders as the pier is large sheet pile.

The next day I made Buffalo, and on to Tonawanda.

This picture shows coming off the lake and passing through the series of breakwaters to enter the Black Rock canal at the very top of the page.


The canal protects you from the Niagara River which will drop you 8 to 10' in a couple of miles with currents exceeding 10 knots.


The canal separates Unity Island from the mainland with the canal ending at the lock.


This is Black Rock Lock. Say that 3 times fast on the VHF.


Once below the lock, the Niagara River becomes wider, deeper, and maybe a 2 knot current. It's about 3 miles past the lock to Tonawanda Island and harbor with minimal current and the beginning of the Erie Canal.

Ted