Hydraulic Steering Fluid Replacement

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Most systems I have worked on are pretty clean, but there have been some notable exceptions where I drained a variety of fluids and lots of crap out, and flushed the entire system with diesel until it ran clean before refilling.
OK, enough of the horror stories, you probably just need to add some fluid at the upper helm.
 
Hi Keith
RE: wagner steering.
They spec Tellus 10 or 32. I use 32 in mine with no problems. FYI I did develop a high usage of seals they only lasted 6 months. I recently changed them to Metric seals , which are minutely larger. Problem solved. I micrometed everything shaft etc and it all seemed o.k. But now problem solved. I have old A-W pumps 36 yrs old. Rarely use helm always autopilot. Always been happy with the wagner system though. It was just the barely discernible leak , just enough to show on the teak.
 
I bought an 1991 Mazda Miata some years ago. The Miata version of TrawlerForum recommended replacing the brake fluid. I pumped the new fluid in starting at the lowest/most distanf point from the master cylinder and worked up/in. The amount of air, water and oily crud that came out was surprising. The same justification may apply to hydraulic boat steering. If changing the fluid in mine, I would certainly pump the new fluid in from the rudder end.
 
Replaced my entire steering system last September and was shocked at the price of SeaStar hydraulic fluid. I can't find it right now but I did find on line that Canadian Tire hydraulic fluid at $9 a litre meets the same mil spec as the SeaStar product at $48 per litre.

I obviously went with Canadian Tire and it has gone 485hrs since last September trouble free (now in Bahamas from Toronto).
 
Greetings,
Good points about changing fluid IF necessary. The first fluid that comes out of the system will probably give an indication of condition. IF visibly contaminated and/or greatly discolored, then yes, change it out. The helm pump(s) are just that, pumps and can be used to flush the system with the addition of fresh fluid from, most probably, the upper station until the fluid runs clear from the bleed fittings at the cylinder. I can't remember whether it is recommended to start with the upper or lower helm but I suspect the upper.
Regarding the Seastar system...There is a fitting available from Seastar that screws into the upper helm fill hole. I affixed a short section of transparent Tygon tubing to said fitting and jamb-fitted a funnel on the open end (makes for much easier filling). Brace the funnel well so it won't fall over. I also connected a short length of clear tubing to the bleeding nipple(s) on the cylinder to direct the old fluid into an appropriate container.

So, with one person and a container of fresh fluid on the "funnel" end and another with the correct sized wrench and a waste bottle on the cylinder end, follow the directions for bleeding and go to it. Have lots of absorbent toweling handy.
 
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From that article:

We also checked in with Aldo Mastropieri, project manager of marine steering at SeaStar Solutions, an industry leader of hydraulic steering systems in recreational boats. He reiterated all of the earlier maintenance points covered and the value of a yearly inspection or every 200 hours of operation. He said SeaStar doesn't have a specific policy for replacing oil at regular intervals, but rather "as necessary" based on analysis of an oil sample from the reservoir. It does not go bad on its own, but if it is black or smells bad, replace the oil.

(emphasis added)

I change the oil in my steering system at the same time that I change the air in my truck's tires.
 
Greetings,
Good points about changing fluid IF necessary. The first fluid that comes out of the system will probably give an indication of condition. IF visibly contaminated and/or greatly discolored, then yes, change it out. The helm pump(s) are just that, pumps and can be used to flush the system with the addition of fresh fluid from, most probably, the upper station until the fluid runs clear from the bleed fittings at the cylinder. I can't remember whether it is recommended to start with the upper or lower helm but I suspect the upper.
Regarding the Seastar system...There is a fitting available from Seastar that screws into the upper helm fill hole. I affixed a short section of transparent Tygon tubing to said fitting and jamb-fitted a funnel on the open end (makes for much easier filling). Brace the funnel well so it won't fall over. I also connected a short length of clear tubing to the bleeding nipple(s) on the cylinder to direct the old fluid into an appropriate container.

So, with one person and a container of fresh fluid on the "funnel" end and another with the correct sized wrench and a waste bottle on the cylinder end, follow the directions for bleeding and go to it. Have lots of absorbent toweling handy.

Yep. That's about it. Not complicated at all. Your symptoms indicate air in the system at the highest point. Fill and bleed, don't do more until you solve that problem, which I am sure is your only problem.

In fact, so easy you can do in in 15 foot seas in the middle of the Atlantic with substitute hydraulic fluid.

Don't ask why I know.
 
Replaced my entire steering system last September and was shocked at the price of SeaStar hydraulic fluid. I can't find it right now but I did find on line that Canadian Tire hydraulic fluid at $9 a litre meets the same mil spec as the SeaStar product at $48 per litre.

I obviously went with Canadian Tire and it has gone 485hrs since last September trouble free (now in Bahamas from Toronto).

Exactly what I did too :thumb:
But the sticker on seastar bottle is nicer :whistling:
 
If changing the fluid in mine, I would certainly pump the new fluid in from the rudder end.

Mean old Mr. Gravity would beg to differ with your method.
Any debris (usually black dusty stuff from deteriorating seals, sometimes entire chunks of them!) and water will be found on the low end of the system.
Flushing from top to bottom is the most effective path.
 
I change the oil in my steering system at the same time that I change the air in my truck's tires.

So that's every 4 to 8 years when you get new tires? :rolleyes:

Ted
 
Not sure how long I would go before changing steering fluid. Would certainly change the fluid every time I rebuilt or replaced a component. When components fail they almost always add debris to the fluid. Seal bits and metal fragments are a great way to shorten the life of other components.

Ted
 
So that's every 4 to 8 years when you get new tires? :rolleyes:

Ted

I usually find I need to add winter air and summer air to my tires. That is far more frequent than adding fluid to my steering. I have done this twice in 22 years on this boat, not at all on the last boat.
Change the air? never.
Change the fluid? Also never. Now if it was milky, or had dissolved the seals, or there was some other reason for concern, then, As Required.
 
I replaced a similsr system on my 52 ft. trawler. Similar arrangement. I used type f hydraulic fluid.
 
What the heck is this?

Under $70 on ebay and worth every penny

mvp-0252_w_ml.jpg
Gaston posted this with no identification. Can't seem to expand image, looks like "Laxative" to me. Really?

Looking to bleed Teleflex system probably empty.
 
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Gaston posted this with no identification. Can't seem to expand image, looks like "Laxative" to me. Really?

Looking to bleed Teleflex system probably empty.
Looks to be a brake bleeder kit by Motive Products.

Save the pic from Gaston's post. Open Google Images and drag/drop the image in and that's what comes up. Gaston's post is dated 2017 you may not find the exact item but should be able to come up with something similar.
 
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