fuel manifold installation

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
this price is better, but after shipping charge, home depot still wins

Fair enough. It was only an example to show price differences. I get mine wholesale and delivered.
 

the manifold from mcmaster has arrived without mounting hardware. I only know it has unthreaded 0.2" dia mounting holes for size # 10 screws.

Is this a good location for the manifold? if so, how to determine the correct length for the mounting screws?

Image_20240129221754.jpg

Image_20240129221727.jpg
 
Only you can decide if it’s the right place. I like to loosely install all the components and then choose my location so that I can easily see it, and the valves are easily accessible, then visualize the hose runs.
Take out a nearby screw so you can figure out the thickness of the mounting panel. Your screw should ideally penetrate as far as possible without punching through the backside.
 
We have a manifold installed just below our Racor 1000's and it works fine for 50 years now. Feeds main engine, 2 generators and our diesel boiler. Just shut off valves, which we don't shut off unless doing maintenance, and no check valves.
 
If you are undecided about the perfect location, you could use double-sided tape.
I keep an assortment of pan head wood/self-threading screws that would do, too.
 
Only you can decide if it’s the right place. I like to loosely install all the components and then choose my location so that I can easily see it, and the valves are easily accessible, then visualize the hose runs.
Take out a nearby screw so you can figure out the thickness of the mounting panel. Your screw should ideally penetrate as far as possible without punching through the backside.

does backside refer to the plywood panel or the perforated board behind the wood panel?
 
If you are undecided about the perfect location, you could use double-sided tape.
I keep an assortment of pan head wood/self-threading screws that would do, too.

the manifold plus those bushing fittings and 3 ball values is quite heavy. Is the tape only used to assist finding the optimal location?
 
the manifold plus those bushing fittings and 3 ball values is quite heavy. Is the tape only used to assist finding the optimal location?
It would probably be better to just bite the bullet and screw it down solidly.
The exact location is not critical as long as you can see it and access it.
 
I would NOT use double sided tape to permanently mount anything such as a manifold. By the time you add your valves, filters, fittings and so on that mfld. will gain a lot of weight.

I do use it but as a testing device to plan for access ability and suitability about the location and any interference from nearby equipment.
 
does backside refer to the plywood panel or the perforated board behind the wood panel?

I would mount to the plywood. If there are acoustic tiles over the plywood, you need to have screws long enough to go through the tiles and into the plywood. If the plywood is over the tiles, just go through the plywood. If it goes into the tiles, no biggie. But remember, There’s no screw holding strength in the tiles.
 
I would mount to the plywood. If there are acoustic tiles over the plywood, you need to have screws long enough to go through the tiles and into the plywood. If the plywood is over the tiles, just go through the plywood. If it goes into the tiles, no biggie. But remember, There’s no screw holding strength in the tiles.

Thanks.
the acoustic tiles are hard to the feel. are they usually made of vinyl?
 
I just learned my racor is an earlier model that has 9/16" or ORB #6 fuel ports.

there is not a ORB 6 to 3/4" barb fitting, so I need a ORB 6 male to ORB 8 female fitting

the fitting 6410-06-08 that is universally available is made of steel with zinc plating. Is this galvanized steel? The same fitting is also available in stainless steel but costs $70+



Due to the possibility of diesel dissolving zinc, purists may avoid any alloys
containing zinc, as brass does.
I have found that any metal will be compatible except galvanized iron or steel.

I have used Home Depot piping when that was all I had but your manifold is a
one-time build that may benefit from using a better quality of components. For
example, I like to use hex nipples on something like this even though they cost
a bit more.

McMaster-Carr sources their pipe components domestically, AFAIK, and should
have better quality control than what I've found at HD.
 
Thanks.
the acoustic tiles are hard to the feel. are they usually made of vinyl?

The tiles are usually made from some kind of pressed fiber. Not sure of the actual base material. I do know a screw will easily pull out if you load it.
 
The tiles are usually made from some kind of pressed fiber. Not sure of the actual base material. I do know a screw will easily pull out if you load it.

yes, i saw those tiles easily break down like horse dung paper
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom