Diesel in SS water tank. Now what?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
On my first fuel fill (without my glasses on) I could read diesel. The fill beside it appeared to say water so I filled it right full, but it turned out to actually say waste. :facepalm: Now I wear my glasses.
It could have been worse. I've been there too. Living aboard, a wet cold dark night. I needed to fill the water tanks. I ended up with water in an 85 gallon fuel tank. A pain to deal with but nothing like what OP is dealing with, fuel in the potable water tank.
 
Simple Green is non-toxic. You can drink it, it has an odd taste.

Another thing I would try if others fail, and that is ethanol, it you can get it. It is very good at dissolving diesel, and any residual evaporates, or will not harm you regardless (though it may make you drunk). I had to clean an incredible mess out of a diesel tank, and denatured alcohol worked better than anything. Don't use denatured (usually ethanol with a little methanol mixed in to make you go blind if you drink it). You may be able to buy ethanol in Mexico, in California it is tough due to ATF regs. If you have any inspection ports at all, you can make a copper tube for the end of a pressure washer or garden sprayer wand, and bend it in various ways to reach parts you can't otherwise even see.
 
I would use a plastic wand to spray around inside the tank. Copper tube can shed small bits of copper and it may react with the metal tank. Steve D always recommends not using a copper tube in a metal tank.
 
Peter, so sorry to hear about this. I can't offer any better advice than what's been posted as far as remediation.

Let me offer what I think I would do going forward. Most of what we use water for on a boat involves cleaning. Once the tanks are cleaned, I can imagine that any trace elements of the diesel will be minimal with most carried away by the soaps you use. What would concern me is anything you swallow, and whether it passes through your body or accumulates. If this happened to me, anything that goes in my mouth would be from a bottled water source. I prefer the taste of spring water and useit for cooking and drinking on my boat. Weekly consumption is probably under 2 gallons. If you have a desalination unit on your boat, I would install a tee so that I could fill a clean container as opposed to getting drinking water through the main tank. Between cooking, drinking water, and brushing your teeth, water consumption is small enough to have an alternate source.

If the above isn't practical, I'm wondering if a filter pitcher like a Brita would work for trapping trace amounts and give you peace of mind. Can't imagine heading off on a long voyage wondering whether your water will make you sick.

Ted
 
Another thing I would try if others fail, and that is ethanol, it you can get it. It is very good at dissolving diesel, and any residual evaporates, or will not harm you regardless (though it may make you drunk). I had to clean an incredible mess out of a diesel tank, and denatured alcohol worked better than anything. Don't use denatured (usually ethanol with a little methanol mixed in to make you go blind if you drink it). You may be able to buy ethanol in Mexico, in California it is tough due to ATF regs. If you have any inspection ports at all, you can make a copper tube for the end of a pressure washer or garden sprayer wand, and bend it in various ways to reach parts you can't otherwise even see.


I'll second the suggestion of alcohol and add that while methanol (stove fuel, shellac thinner, methyl alcohol) is certainly toxic, it is much cheaper than heavily taxed ethanol (grain alcohol, vodka, ethyl alcohol). Since both alcohols mix easily with both water and diesel, once you finish cleaning the tank with methanol, if you drain the methanol, fill the tank with water and drain again, you'll be fine.


Nobody has mention propylene glycol (RV antifreeze). I see that it is miscible in acetone, so I'd guess it will also be miscible in diesel. That would probably be cheaper than methanol.


Jim
 
A fellow I knew repurposed an aluminum diesel tank for his fresh water use. He steam cleaned it and used crystal simple green I seem to recall. He added an in-line filter in his galley for drinking water only. No detectable smells at any of the other outlets. Not something I would have done, but it seemed like a successful project. He’s still around and boating 20 years later.
 
Good post. Add an inline filter for potable at the yard's expense and carry on.
 
Peter,
Since it didn't get into the other tank,or into the rest of the fresh water system, I think you'll be okay. 2nd the suggestions on Simple Green and Cascade liquid dish soap, agitation (mechanically from filler if possible), rinse and repeat as necessary. Then test to confirm. Sorry this happened to you, and hope it gets resolved quickly!
 
I would use a plastic wand to spray around inside the tank. Copper tube can shed small bits of copper and it may react with the metal tank. Steve D always recommends not using a copper tube in a metal tank.

You need metal so you can bend it and reach the unreachable. If not copper, then annealed SS. Although I don't think copper is a threat to a SS tank. Aluminum tank, I'd worry about copper.
 
You need metal so you can bend it and reach the unreachable. If not copper, then annealed SS. Although I don't think copper is a threat to a SS tank. Aluminum tank, I'd worry about copper.

The old plumbing used to be copper tubing which was fine. I re-plumbed to PEX.

They are actually using a length of PEX tubing to spray the inside. Seems to work okay, but agree that a length of metal tubing would be better. The tanks are fairly accessible - there are 6-inch bronze deck fills in the floor of the aft deck. One those are inscrewed, a 1-1/2" end-cap is beneath that is welded to the top of the tank - about 4" below deck level.

Folks, there are some excellent contributions on this thread (the suggestion to see how milk trucks are sanitized was good - haven't checked it yet). I cannot thank y'all enough.

I'll keep you posted.

Peter
 
You need metal so you can bend it and reach the unreachable. If not copper, then annealed SS. Although I don't think copper is a threat to a SS tank. Aluminum tank, I'd worry about copper.

Agree..... its copper and aluminum that don't play nice.
 
Well there's a curve ball for you...


Was there water in the tank? And do you have access through an inspection port of any kind? What I'm thinking is that the fuel will float on any water, and if there is any way to skim it off before it gets mixed in any way, or comes in contact with more of the tank and plumbing, that would be good.



Otherwise I'd probably try to pump it out from the deck fill, lowing the suction hone in just enough to draw from the top surface as much as possible.


Also shut off any valves where the water gets drawn from the tank to keep the plumbing system from getting contaminated.


Once the tank is empty, I'd fill with water and a soap that breaks down oil. I think Dawn is supposed to be good. Fill full, soak, drain, repeat. As the fluid level drops, the sides of the tank will get coated with any residual diesel, and that will need to get cleaned, so important to fill the tank all the way to overflow when cleaning. If you have any sort of inspection port it will be a lot easier, but I suspect you don't.



Probably also remove the fill hose and wash that out of the boat so you can get it really clean. Also consider whether the fuel on that hose will have damaged the hose in any way, or permeated it. Maybe just replace the hose to be sure.

When I ran a boat yard I dealt with resolving this scenario on a number of occasions. TW's advice is sound. I've also used a hot water pressure washer through the inspection port once the tank is empty, the hot water will emulsify diesel residue. After tank cleaning is complete, I would also install a charcoal, whole-house water filter, it will remove any remaining telltale trace odor of fuel. I would also have the water tested after it has been cleaned.
 
After you get it mostly cleaned with simple green or similar use orange oil to kill the taste and smell from both the diesel and the cleaning chemicals. . Orange peel contains d-limonene a powerful degreaser and odor neutralizer .. I use it to kill the taste of antifreeze after winter storage.

Here’s a list of home made concoctions you can try.

https://www.tipsbulletin.com/homemade-orange-cleaner/

And for the final “taste” rinse use hydrogen peroxide
 
Last edited:
He totally supports testing the water for toxicity as the final litmus test. Given there is an objective test in order to declare victory, and I owe a fair chunk of change, I'm good with the approach.

Peter

How will you take a sample to be sure that the sample reflects all residual contamination. It is easy to imagine, for example. some diesel film adhering to the top of the tank (or another noon and cranny) that may not have even been exposed to the water you are sampling? Also, I would think that if you are taking a sample from the tank's output, you wouldn't want the water in the tank to have had an opportunity to settle before sampling -- instead, I think you would want water that has been thoroughly mixed. Lastly, have you agreed upon the threshhold below which contamination is acceptable, or do you want "no detect" results. If the later, you will want a test that has the lowest possible detection threshold. In my experience (dealing with contaminated land), it is not enough to agree that "passing" a sampling test is sufficient. The devil is in the details.
 
Not sure if this has been said yet but

DO NOT DRAIN THE TANK UNTIL THE DIESEL IS REMOVED! It will be much easier to clean if you can suck the diesel off the top.

I agree that the tanks can get back to completely safe standards.

You should change the fill hose as well. That won't get clean.

I make a point of always filling the water tanks directly before fueling up. That seems to help. I wouldn't care so much if someone put some diesel into the waste tank...
 
Thanks everyone. There is no fill neck hose. There is a 6" bronze deck plate, a couple inches below that is a 1-1/2" cap directly into the tank. Due to bright sun and shadows, attached are tough to see but show the relationship

To draw a sample, plan is to take a queue from a bartender: dip a straw and put my thumb over the top. Will take several samples into the same jar.

Wish me luck!

Peter 20230210_094543.jpg20230210_094616.jpg
 
If I remember you had something like over 40 gallons of fuel go in there...I bet they can save most of that fuel though that is the least of your worries.

Good luck and keep the pictures coming! I'd like to hear the deets on progress.

Thanks everyone. There is no fill neck hose. There is a 6" bronze deck plate, a couple inches below that is a 1-1/2" cap directly into the tank. Due to bright sun and shadows, attached are tough to see but show the relationship

To draw a sample, plan is to take a queue from a bartender: dip a straw and put my thumb over the top. Will take several samples into the same jar.

Wish me luck!

Peter View attachment 135904View attachment 135905
 
I had the same thing happen and I used “gallons” of dawn and every other product posted here. It never ever got the lingering smell out.

I ran across Oil Solutions. The research made this stuff seem too good to be true but I was desperate and I bought it. Amazing results!

I have been using the tanks and water system extensively and exclusively (I am cruising the Exumas) since and I always have perfect water.

Look up oil solutions on the internet and give them a call. I recommend every boat have some of their product on board for oil and fuel spills especially in your bilges.

The best part is it is EPA approved to dispose of in regular trash.
 
After it’s all over…

Once it’s all been cleaned thoroughly, put a carbon block filter on your drinking water lines. It will trap the last few molecules, and you wanted one anyway, right???
 
The Oil Solutions videos look pretty convincing. I think if I was in Weebles position I might give that a try. It looks like it might mitigate the collateral damage that other methods might incur.
 
Thanks so much. I've reached out to Oil solutions via phone and email. They are not listed on Amazon anymore. I'll keep y'all posted on updates.

Peter
 
Install a tank specifically for drinking

I just finished putting in a 60 litre polypropylene tank below the galley sink. It can be flushed out to the bilge. I use this water just for drinking. It has it's own fill and it's own galley faucet with a 1/4" hose to the tank. My main water source, which is under the bed, is a fiberglass tank of a couple of hundred gallons that has no inspection port. I use this for showering and washing dishes.

I'm thinking, no matter how much you wash that tank you will still taste the diesel. Taking a shower is one thing, drinking it is another.
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much. I've reached out to Oil solutions via phone and email. They are not listed on Amazon anymore. I'll keep y'all posted on updates.

Peter

Can be ordered online from their website. I just ordered a kit to see what it is like.
 
This is one of my greatest nightmares. Kerp us posted as to your best solution.
 
Dump a bottle of Dawn in there. It will clump the diesel together in clumps and it will sink to the bottom. Suction the tank dry from the bottom. Refill with water and Dawn, take your boat out for a bumpy ride. Back at the docks, suction dry again, refill with water. Make the guy who did it drink the first glass and watch him.
 
I had exactly this problem. And resolved it satisfactorily. I owned a 2006 Hatteras 72MY. We pulled into Beaufort, NC for fuel and dinner. We employed a first mate. In fact he was licensed captain who was supposedly experienced.

We started fueling. I was doing other tasks. He manned the pump. The bad news is he put diesel in the fresh water. The good news is that after he did it he cam clean about the error and had stopped pumping.

He immediately want to drink the fresh water tank. I stopped him cold.

I called Hatteras and talked to service. They told me that they had had plenty of calls regarding water in the fuel tank but never the reverse. I was asked to wait while they discussed it with the engineering department.

What i was told to do worked! It was time consuming but it did the trick.

1. Do NOT use the freshwater system
2. Drain the fresh water tanks from the lowest possible point. Turns out in the forward center bilge I had a drain pipe which allowed me to drain the fresh water tank.
3. After the fresh water tank was drained the first time I was to refill it and told to add bottles of 409 cleaner into the system. (Managed to but a couple of dozen in various places.
4. I was to drain the tank until i stopped seeing a ping skim on top of the water in the lower bilge. It sort of looked like fatty chicken soup.
5. After clean the system I did it twice more with no 409 and everything was fine. No diesel taste of smell anywhere.
6. The last thing I did was buy a ticket home for the first mate. While I respected his honesty I was shocked at his overall incompetency.
 
I too had this problem about 10 yrs ago.
Luckily twigged and shut off the crossover hose so none got into the system.
Removed what diesel I could.
Dawn was put in with about a half tank of water. Taken out on a mildy rough day to stir things up.
After a couple more rinses I dumped a gallon of Ethanol alcohol in the tank and one more run and then pumped that out.
Another rinse and then a test,
NO TASTE or smell or either diesel OR Dawn.

To boot the tank was spotless. We used to get cloudy water after a rough passage. No more of that either.
 
Last edited:
I hope to never need the info I have learned following this. Thinking of painting my water fills blue as a reminder and also if someone is helping I can say “ no diesel in the blue “
 
I think one issue with the Oil Solutions solution in this instance is that it turns the absorbed oil into a rubbery substance, which then must be physically removed. That could be done with a largish inspection port, but does not look feasible through a fill. That is their powder product. Their liquid products turn into powder and that could be flushed out with water. They claim it removes odor and stains. May be well worth a try after the bulk of the oil is removed and a couple of rinses done. I've got some of their product on the way and will give it a try (though not in my water tanks!).
 
I had the same thing happen and I used “gallons” of dawn and every other product posted here. It never ever got the lingering smell out.

Could you elaborate on the material of your water tank when this incident occurred?

The OP is using a stainless steel water tank. Far more common would be a poly or even an aluminum tank. Which were you dealing with? Results will definitely vary based on material.
 
Back
Top Bottom