Autopilot Installation

[BuoyOBuoy]

To start. I know nothing about the installation requirements but am a real DIYer. I'm hoping that any of you guys can help me.
I am planning on installing a Raymarine EV-150 power pilot, this spring, on a 1979 Albin 33 with hydraulic steering.
The unit comes with a kit and "easy to install" instructions! I have been told that because I already have hydraulic steering I don't require the pump that is in the kit. The kit requirement is that I have a 1 Liter pump already.
Right now I am 1000 miles from the boat, returning April 15th, but the sale price on the unit ends March 31st. I don't have anyone close to the boat to access the pump.
I'm hoping that anyone who owns or is familiar with a similar Taiwanese trawler can tell me the approximate size of pump that is on the boat presently. Apparently that is necessary to ensure I am ordering the proper kit.
Any and all assistance is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Nick F]

Hello BoB,

If you presently have hydraulic steering on the boat, but no autopilot, then the only "pump" on the boat is the manually operated pump that the steering wheel is attached to.

For the autopilot to work you need to add an electric driven pump. The capacity of such a pump would be measured in liters/minute and would determine the speed at which the autopilot could move the rudder.

Hope this helps!
Regards,
Nick

 

[DavidM]

You do not have a pump in the traditional sense. You have a steering wheel that turns the vanes on the "pump" which sends hydraulic fluid to the steering hydraulic ram.

So install your new pump roughly in parallel with the steering wheel pump.

David

 

[syjos]

You need to determine the displacement of the hydraulic cylinders that move the rudder.

An AP pump is chosen based on the above displacement.

 

[Nick F]

So your dilemma is to know the size of the hydraulic ram in your boat.

For a 33 foot boat, the Raymarine pump you need will almost certainly be one of the two shown in the attached clip from the Raymarine selection table.

It is interesting that both these pumps show the same no-load peak flow rate. Perhaps the bigger one just has a stronger motor, in which case you could just choose that one to be on the safe side. Perhaps another forum member can contribute here, or perhaps you can speak with someone technical at Raymarine.

 

[BuoyOBuoy]

Thanks for your prompt replies.
You are right. The "pumps" are on both steering wheels but the copper lines both lead to a "box" under the starboard step as you enter the door on the wheel side. I have always assumed the "box" had something to do with a pump. How far off am I ?
By the way this is an amazing forum for someone like me who likes the DIY but admits to not knowing everything.

 

[mvweebles]

Here's a basic diagram - the hydraulic helms are often called "helm pumps" thus the confusion. You will need an A/P pump matched in size to your cylinder.

The A/P lines can tee-into the steering lines anywhere. Most common is near the cylinder fittings.

In my mind, biggest challenge is matching the plumbing fittings. I don't recall if you said the size of boat, but if you have copper lines, probably either 3/8" flare or 1/2" flare. The pump will come with straight fittings into the pump and flare out, often 3/8" so if your steering lines are 1/2", you'll need to adapt - the tee is a good place to adapt.

Frankly, my first-try success rate with plumbing in general is not great. I always forget something. Doing it from afar without pictures sounds iffy. More info on the boat might get some better response from other TF folks. There are some skilled people on this forum.

Peter

 

[Solly]

If there are no wires to the box under the step it's simply a junction box to tie the 2 helms together. Think a T connection where the lines from the wheels come together and then run to the cylinder.

 

[syjos]

You do not need to buy the pump from the AP manufacturers.

There are many pump manufacturers out there that make pumps that perform better than the AP manufacturer.

AccuSteer and Octopus make excellent pumps. Some with adjustable displacement to match the pump to your cylinders.

I think that Furuno, Raymarine, Simrad and others source their pumps from these manufacturers.

I installed an AccuSteer adjustable pump on Sandpiper when the Simrad/Robertson AP was installed.

 

[Bill V]

I installed a Simrad Nac2 auto pilot system on my boat that had hydraulic steering. It involved installing an electronic compass, rudder feedback unit and an electrical 12v pump. I used the AP44 Simrad controller and up sized the hydraulic 12v pump to the next size that my hydraulic ram required. This was done because I have dual rudders and the supplier thought the ram would require a heavier duty pump. That was 3 years ago and it has worked very well for me. Only issue I had was tuning it for higher speeds then 10mph without having a GPS input. At speeds below planing speeds it works perfect but at planing speeds it attemps to over correct. Doesn't really bother me as I only need it at slow cruise speeds below 10mph. Anytime I'm cruising at planing speeds I prefer to use manual steering anyway. Since installing it I find I enjoy cruising at hull speeds much more and is my "norm" now. Much more relaxing too. Since installing it I love using it when fishing for salmon as it has trolling patterns I find extremely helpful. Since installing the AP I have purchased the Simrad WR10 wireless remote and it is an awesome addition when fishing and cruising permitting me to steer the boat from other locations then the helm.

 

[Iggy]

I installed a Simrad Nac2 auto pilot system on my boat that had hydraulic steering. It involved installing an electronic compass, rudder feedback unit and an electrical 12v pump. I used the AP44 Simrad controller and up sized the hydraulic 12v pump to the next size that my hydraulic ram required. This was done because I have dual rudders and the supplier thought the ram would require a heavier duty pump. That was 3 years ago and it has worked very well for me. Only issue I had was tuning it for higher speeds then 10mph without having a GPS input. At speeds below planing speeds it works perfect but at planing speeds it attemps to over correct. Doesn't really bother me as I only need it at slow cruise speeds below 10mph. Anytime I'm cruising at planing speeds I prefer to use manual steering anyway. Since installing it I find I enjoy cruising at hull speeds much more and is my "norm" now. Much more relaxing too. Since installing it I love using it when fishing for salmon as it has trolling patterns I find extremely helpful. Since installing the AP I have purchased the Simrad WR10 wireless remote and it is an awesome addition when fishing.

My current boat is the only one I ever had with an autopilot. So no past experience. The past owner installed a Simrad Nac3 unit.

I have been told that its a great unit by better boaters than I when I took them out. I will say, its responsive, does not seam to over correct.

I went though the Cape Cod Canal for the first time with the new boat last summer. Between currents and wakes it was hard to keep a straight course. I turned the AP on and it was not prefect but close to it.

 

[Comodave]

We just installed an EVO 200 autopilot in our current boat. Have not tried it yet and will have to wait til spring when we launch. It was very easy since we had an old autopilot in the boat. We just kept the old pump that was already in the boat. So the install was simple. Installing the pump is the only hard part of the whole thing. As was said above the plumbing is the hard part. I am not a good plumber…

 

[Jeff F]

Hi Dennis, where's your boat? Is/was there an autopilot already installed? If not you'll need a pump. If so, the existing pump draw in amps needs to be within the spec for the control unit.