anchor locker hatch2008 (Mariner-Seville37) Helmsman 38

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capran

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
208
Vessel Name
Honu
Vessel Make
Helmsman 38/Mariner Saville 37
Last fall during layup noticed anchor well hatch had cracking and some water coming out of the crack. took it home and dried it out, but not sure repair is 432425984_833274945375520_5685652600070993441_n.jpgin my skillset. there's not much looseness to the cracking. Before taking it in to see if North Harbor Marine can do the repairs, I'd appreciate any input from the Forum.
 
That is a pretty easy repair. Grind out all the loose and cracked glass. Mix up some thickened epoxy and fill the crack. I would use some structural filler. Then refinish the surface, this will be the hard part…
 
That is a pretty easy repair. Grind out all the loose and cracked glass. Mix up some thickened epoxy and fill the crack. I would use some structural filler. Then refinish the surface, this will be the hard part…

Thanks. Maybe it won't be as expensive as I thought. Not sure I have the skill to do it correctly.
 
If it doesn’t come out good the first time just grind it out and do it over. Practice first on some scrap. West epoxy has good directions on how to do it.
 
Measure to see if the crack separation has increased the height of that side of the hatch. If so you may need to do some judicious clamping after introducing the epoxy and while it goes off. Remove excess material squeezed out before it sets.
 
Measure to see if the crack separation has increased the height of that side of the hatch. If so you may need to do some judicious clamping after introducing the epoxy and while it goes off. Remove excess material squeezed out before it sets.

When clamped, is has enough give to close the gap, so that it seems a small crack. I worry that the west epoxy doesn't have enough adhesion to keep it that way after removing the clamps. If I tried it, and it didn't hold, I'm afraid it would make it even more difficult for having it done. I would think you would clamp all along the edge every 8 inches or so. I do have quite a few wood clamps (about 8 or so) and I have one bigger C clamp that is metal, that you could put wood over a part of the hatch on both sides. I just am afraid of screwing it up. sigh
 
If I were doing this I would probably drill holes around the edge to be able to fill with epoxy. Then clamp and after it sets up fix the edges.
 
Wondering if there is a JB Weld product to suit the job.
Timber pieces under the clamps to distribute the force might provide good even setting support.
 
You would be amazed at the strength of epoxy.
 
I think the first task would be to open up and expose all of the rotted wood core. Just like the dentist does to a cavity. Thickened Epoxy is your friend. It needs to be thin enough to ooze into the voids but thick enough for compression strength. Maybe the consistency of syrup? West System is very easy to work with.
 
anchor well hatch

If it doesn’t come out good the first time just grind it out and do it over. Practice first on some scrap. West epoxy has good directions on how to do it.
Thank you all for your input. I didn't realize I was still getting additional comments.

after talking to the boatyard, this may be something I might just try myself. They proposed taking off all the gel coat and basically rebuilding the hatch. Not sure I want to do that. Hell, if they had a brand new hatch at Helmsman I'd just buy it, but I'm pretty sure that's not an option. If I fill with Epoxy and clamp, that would fill the voids of the crack and hopefully allow any excess to come out as I applied the clamps. as to the cracked edges, I'm hearing maybe use a moto drill to open it up a bit, but after the west epoxy hardens, what do you use to re-create the gel coat on the 1" thick "sides". Is there a standard white gel coat? I am getting old and doing something wrong freaks me out. don't really have any spare hatch/deck material to experiment with. sigh.
 
West Systems can almost restore human life

I'd take it internally if it could restore the life I had sailing before buying a trawler 2 years ago.
 
Wondering if there is a JB Weld product to suit the job.
Timber pieces under the clamps to distribute the force might provide good even setting support.

I have lots of pieces of wood for that at least. also, what should I use when resetting the screws. I know 5200 should not be used.
 
If I were doing this I would probably drill holes around the edge to be able to fill with epoxy. Then clamp and after it sets up fix the edges.

the side edges or from the bottom side along the edges? A or B in the attached rough diagram. and fill later with epoxy or gel coat recommendations.
 

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the side edges or from the bottom side along the edges? A or B in the attached rough diagram. and fill later with epoxy or gel coat recommendations.

I am no expert, just want to preface that, but I would do A , just a few inches past either end of the existing crack and in the crack itself.

Good luck, hope you are willing to follow up after completion which ever way you decide to go.
 
I am no expert, just want to preface that, but I would do A , just a few inches past either end of the existing crack and in the crack itself.

Good luck, hope you are willing to follow up after completion which ever way you decide to go.

I will. Their fiberglass dept will look at it when we bring it over late monday or tuesday. she initially suggested grinding the whole thing down and basically rebuilding the whole thing. so by wed we should be back home. (boat is 350 miles away).
 
Hi Capran: I wish i had an anchor locker hatch. My boat didn't come with one.
Suggestion: take your hatch to a local automotive body shop. They work with fiberglass all the time and can paint it for you. Might be cheaper and get the problem off your plate.
Cheers
Barrie
 
Hi Capran: I wish i had an anchor locker hatch. My boat didn't come with one.
Suggestion: take your hatch to a local automotive body shop. They work with fiberglass all the time and can paint it for you. Might be cheaper and get the problem off your plate.
Cheers
Barrie

Wow, Barrie. No anchor well hatch. Is it just open? The top of my hatch is fine. no cracking. but somehow, water must have gotten in and enough to freeze and crack winter of 22-23. I didn't notice anything amiss until the last week of summer when saw the cracking and some water seeping out. it is now very dry after putting it by heat vent all fall and winter, and need to get it "glued" with epoxy as I understand it. I'll see what the shop says Monday/Tuesday, and if it's something ridiculous, I'll bring it back home and figure it out. sounds like west epoxy and clamp, then need to figure out what to re-do edges with a gelcoat material. any gel coat recommendations? I've only used scratch repair on my old sailboat.
 
I am no expert, just want to preface that, but I would do A , just a few inches past either end of the existing crack and in the crack itself.

Good luck, hope you are willing to follow up after completion which ever way you decide to go.
Well, I must admit, I am getting old and avoiding the worry and stress over doing it wrong was avoidable by having the yard do it. It won't be cheap- $400, but there's enough on my to do list of things I can do. I do appreciate all the input and advice, but avoiding anxiety won. Who would have known I would be so risk aversive. In my 30's I quit my job, flew 3000 miles, bought a sailboat and sailed single handed to the Bahamas for 3 months until spouse and child joined me after summer break started. And I did almost everything for over 40 years, including wiring, woodwork, etc. sigh!
 
Hi Capran: I wish i had an anchor locker hatch. My boat didn't come with one.
Yep, ours didn't either. It's not open and the only access to the locker is through cabinet doors in the forward stateroom bulkhead. Suboptimal. Would love to find someone who has retrofitted a hatch into one without...
 
Yep, ours didn't either. It's not open and the only access to the locker is through cabinet doors in the forward stateroom bulkhead. Suboptimal. Would love to find someone who has retrofitted a hatch into one without...
well, I guess I should count my blessings. not sure how water accumulation would be, both in winter storage as well as underway in head seas. is the 2008 the first model to do the hatch?
 
Escape is a 2007 model year. If Honu is a 2008 and has a hatch, that would make sense. Can you send a photo?

Managing water accumulation in the locker is done passively by a drain hole in the aft port corner of the locker. It just drains overboard. Guessing that is the same on newer models?
 
Escape is a 2007 model year. If Honu is a 2008 and has a hatch, that would make sense. Can you send a photo?

Managing water accumulation in the locker is done passively by a drain hole in the aft port corner of the locker. It just drains overboard. Guessing that is the same on newer models?
here's a pic of the bow area underway. I didn't take a pic of it open. there are two drains. one on either side, which I would guess drains each side of the anchor well. Port side is the main chain locker, fed via the windlass, and the right side is the second anchor.
 

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Yeah, that is really nice. Thank you. Does not look like an inexpensive retrofit for models without!
 
Yeah, that is really nice. Thank you. Does not look like an inexpensive retrofit for models without!
The next time I go to the boat, I can take pics of the hatch area open as well as better pics of the whole hatch. Might not be until late June as we have a sons wedding in June. When I removed the hatch in late September I had made a wood cover which I used to cover the space during the winter, which I varnished and attached with adhesive tape to keep out the winter elements.
 
here's the repaired hatch pic. I was quoted a price of 400 and when I got the 2700" bill I went to the CEO. she reduced it to the original quote.
 

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