50 AMP TO 30 AMP adapter

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Easternshore

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
150
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Pearl
Vessel Make
Beneteau Flyer 12
To EEL or not, that is the question. The electric service at the new marina is a single 50 AMP outlet. We have a single 30 AMP system and cord thus need an adapter. Is the EEL adapter worth the extra $50 vs the standard twist adapter? I don’t want to be penny wise and pound foolish but is the EEL adapter worth the extra $50?
Thanks to all replies!
 
Are you looking for just 50A 120V to 30A 120V adapter?
If so, I do have an one (std twist lock) that I no longer use and would be willing to sell as our marina is new and all 50A 240V.
If interested I can dig it out and take a few pics.
 
Email send
 
EEL gives you a neat quick disconnect and a nice blue led light. I have never felt these was enough to justify an extra $50. However, being cool has never come cheap.
 
I have a Y adapter that goes from 50 amp pedestal to 2X30 amp cables for use on my boat so I would guess you can either find a direct 50amp to 30amp cable or just not use one side of the Y adapter.
 
I have a Y adapter that goes from 50 amp pedestal to 2X30 amp cables for use on my boat so I would guess you can either find a direct 50amp to 30amp cable or just not use one side of the Y adapter.

Careful with this idea. Many Y adapters are designed to look for out of phase power. If they don’t find it they won’t hook up. By not plugging in the second 30a you end up with no power.

Best to stick with a single 30 to 50 adapter unless you need the Y for 220v.
 
Careful with this idea. Many Y adapters are designed to look for out of phase power. If they don’t find it they won’t hook up. By not plugging in the second 30a you end up with no power.



Best to stick with a single 30 to 50 adapter unless you need the Y for 220v.

What you stated is true for the 2-30A 125V male to 50A 250V female.
The OP is looking for the 50A male to 30A female straight adapter. Using a 50A male (either 125V or 250V variety) to 2- 30A 125V female poses no problem when using only one of the 30A females and capping the unused leg for Wx protection.
 
IF you wire up your own , wire up 2.

The 50a service consists of 2 -120v legs, depending on how the marina was wired , and how the other boats are using current ,one leg will usually have higher voltage.

That's the leg you want to make life easier for all your electric items.

A dumb Y adapter that just splits the 50A would also work very easily to select the highest voltage and plug in.
 
What you stated is true for the 2-30A 125V male to 50A 250V female.
The OP is looking for the 50A male to 30A female straight adapter. Using a 50A male (either 125V or 250V variety) to 2- 30A 125V female poses no problem when using only one of the 30A females and capping the unused leg for Wx protection.

Yep, got twisted around there. Must have been enjoying those Ceaser drinks BC is so famous for.
 
Years ago, I needed a 50A to 15A adapter. I couldn't find one, so started looking for a 50A to 30A and 30A to 15A. I couldn't find those either. A guy at West Marine told me (this was years ago, when they still had knowledgeable staff), that I wouldn't easily find any of the foregoing because, in the case of 50A to 30A, the 30A socket should be protected by a 30A breaker, but unless the adapter included a breaker, it would only be protected by the 50A breaker protecting the original socket. That made sense, but didn't explain why none with integral breakers were available either. I ended up making my own (with a breaker).
 
Years ago, I needed a 50A to 15A adapter. I couldn't find one, so started looking for a 50A to 30A and 30A to 15A. I couldn't find those either. A guy at West Marine told me (this was years ago, when they still had knowledgeable staff), that I wouldn't easily find any of the foregoing because, in the case of 50A to 30A, the 30A socket should be protected by a 30A breaker, but unless the adapter included a breaker, it would only be protected by the 50A breaker protecting the original socket. That made sense, but didn't explain why none with integral breakers were available either. I ended up making my own (with a breaker).

Exactly, you beat me to it. The 30 amp cable will not be protected for overload. Yesterday my neighbor just turned on power to his dock. He had an electrician come out and do the work. The electrician put in a 50 amp breaker and plug then sold him an adapter to 30 amp for the shore power cordset. I told him that he needs a 30 amp breaker instead of 50.
 
This…it’s worth it.
 

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To the OP, be sure you know whether your 50A side is 120V or 240V. The plugs are different and incompatible, and the plug wiring will be different.
 
It is true that the typical 50 amp to 30 amp adapter leaves the shore power cable and the boat's wiring from the inlet to the 30 amp breaker on your boat unprotected, yet these adapters are common and necessary in many marinas.

We often find ourselves using ours when travelling, but I would be a bit uncomfortable with this at a home slip where it is used 24/7.

I have never seen a commercial 50 amp to 30 amp adapter with a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker. One could be made, of course, but I would hesitate to recommend that someone without a pretty good knowledge and some electrical experience try to make one themselves.

Is there any chance of the marina putting in a 30 amp breaker and socket for you?
 
Agree te hnically the cord is "unprotected" but think about it... only partially true
If it is carrying more than the 30A it is rated for the breaker(s) at the boat end will trip and protect you. These will be either at the inlet or within 10 ft of wire aboard. Overload will be very short term.

Only way that won't happen ( that I can think of) is if the cord has a short and high amp is in the cord only not into boat wiring. In that case even if the short causes 30A flow the cord is OK.
If the short causes more than 50A flow the pedestal will trip and protect cord from further damage/melting/ fire.
Only case that will cause issue with cord is if the Amp flow is >30A and <50A not sure how that would happen but my guess is probability is slim?
 
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Agree te hnically the cord is "unprotected" but think about it... only partially true
If it is carrying more than the 30A it is rated for the breaker(s) at the boat end will trip and protect you. These will be either at the inlet or within 10 ft of wire aboard. Overload will be very short term.

Only way that won't happen ( that I can think of) is if the cord has a short and high amp is in the cord only not into boat wiring. In that case even if the short causes 30A flow the cord is OK.
If the short causes more than 50A flow the pedestal will trip and protect cord from further damage/melting/ fire.
Only case that will cause issue with cord is if the Amp flow is >30A and <50A not sure how that would happen but my guess is probability is slim?

A short in the cord will only burn the cord, no worries. A problem with the boat's wiring between the inlet and the breaker is unprotected.

This is why overcurrent protection is installed at the beginning of the circuit.

We can say that the chances of this being a problem are slim, but they are still there.
 
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A short in the cord will only burn the cord, no worries. A problem with the boat's wiring between the inlet and the breaker is unprotected.

This is why overcurrent protection is installed at the beginning of the circuit.

We can say that the chances of this being a problem are slim, but they are still there.

No argument that it is possible to short between inlet & breaker
It still would have to result in >30A and <50A to be a problem.
Wiring capable of carrying 30A and if over 50A the pedestal breaker trips.
Again no argument that protection belongs at the "source" end of wiring.

Prior to our marina rebuild we had no choice as the service was 50A 125V and all (except one I know of) the boats were single or double 30A inlets. Adapters / Y splitters were essential equipment for almost everyone.
It was a NYState facility and you might guess the probability of getting the state to change anything.
 
A short in the cord will only burn the cord, no worries. A problem with the boat's wiring between the inlet and the breaker is unprotected.

This is why overcurrent protection is installed at the beginning of the circuit.

We can say that the chances of this being a problem are slim, but they are still there.

Or maybe the boats inlet. Those overheat regularly and melt due to the heat.
 
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