Not an electronics connection guy...question for those who might be.

So I found the autopilot brain and shipped it off to be fixed (hopefully).

Of course its location is difficult to reach. Removing those tiny wires (fluxgate inputs etc.) from the screw clamp connections is one thing. Putting them back in with the box in place to just asking for a whole string of expletives.

So, thought I would prepare easier connections with the box out. Wires into the brain's connectors with a plug on the other end (3/3/5 pin). The wires from the boat would have the matching plug and a means to solderless connect those bot wires and matching plug together.

I have Googled this and I am finding all sorts of variations and none that seem to fit the bill.

I hope I described this adequately. Any website that makes this easier to put together?

Thanks in advance.

Don't know your specific make and model, but you need to be careful about making sure those wires that are shielded remain shielded if extending wires. Before you do that trace the wires to see if you can undo some wire ties and gain some slack in the cables.

Ted

Understand that most marine electrical problems are in the connections or connectors. Adding an additional connector in the line adds another place for corrosion. If you really don't have to do it, I wouldn't.

I think I would wire it first, then mount. Swearing and all.��

Screw clamp connections? DO the wires use a wire ferrule on the ends? If not then look them up. Just google wire ferrules and you will get lots of hits.
Do some searching as some sellers want to sell in bags of 500++.

I have used Ferrules Direct in the past.

https://www.ferrulesdirect.com/

The come in a myriad of sizes. Your wires would likely be somewhere around 22AWG to 26AWG. Buy a few of each, they are quite cheap.

You will need a proper crimper which can cost anywhere from $50 to several hundreds.

THe wire strands can be protected from corrosion by a spray or a smear of dielectric grease, then crimp. Not much needed.


I have used these ferrules for about 30 yrs, started at work. and they make rewiring much easier with small stranded wires, even much larger, and clamp type connections.

Also, look carefully at the terminal blocks you are inserting your wires into. In some brands (Robertson/Simrad) these are actually removable plugs that can be pulled out of the circuit board which can make the job of attaching the wires much easier.

I agree with all of the above advice. I think by the time to find a suitable plug and receptacle, get the pins, get the crimper, learn how to use it, screw up a couple of connections, and possible impact signal integrity, you will do more swearing than if you just reinstall the device as intended. Besides, a little swearing is therapeutic.

C lectric said:

Screw clamp connections? DO the wires use a wire ferrule on the ends?

Click to expand...

I am not looking forward to this battle either, though access to my Simrad AC20 is pretty easy. Mine works fine when it works, but fails to start up at seemingly random times. The previous owner said to "wiggle the wires and that usually brings it back." It does sometimes, but not others.

Suspecting a connection issue, I re-terminated all of the connections on the AC20 input strip. Some were pretty ratty. All are clean and tight now, but still without ferrules. The failure to start problem still happens.

I sent one of the AP16 head unit to a guy in Florida who found the video board corroded and terminal, so I bought a new head unit. The failure to start problem still happens.

"Clean and tight" isn't perfect, of course, and I'm sure ferruled connections would be better. Might be my next step. Thanks C.

I think most AP computers have pluggable terminal blocks for the connections, though it may not be obvious without a close look. All the Raymarine ones I have owned have - 5 generations of them.

The Simrad AC20 computer has a terminal strip.

HeadedToTexas said:

The Simrad AC20 computer has a terminal strip.

Click to expand...

Please take a closer look at this image. It is a Simrad AC20 with some of the green plugs removed. You can clearly see these plug into corresponding sockets on the circuit board. All of the green or black plugs are removable if desired for wiring. The grey power terminal block is fixed.

In your case, it might not make it any easier for you, but unplugging the connectors to facilitate wiring is an option. It might also be advisable to pull and re-seat the plugs to ensure their connections are clean and tight.

I've installed Simrad AC20's on two of my prior boats.

'Xactly. They often look like a terminal strip but on close inspection plug into a header soldered to the board.

Great information gents. Thanks! Its a B &G and looking at the pics the terminal blocks look permanent. Lets see what the doctor (Wheelhouse in Ft. Lauderdale) says about the patient and perhaps I am overcomplicating this.

Marine How To - Wire Termination

Everything (and more) you ever need to know about terminating wires: https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

Doing it the pro-way can get expensive... but so to can the other ways.
Good Luck!
Brad

Postscript...

Received back the autopilot brain from Wheelhouse in Ft. Lauderdale. A fluxgate compass and a new circuit board and a bit over a boat buck and it was returned to me a few days back.

Re-installing it and the fiddly wires only required a few boat cuss's and was not nearly as bad as expected. Went to helm station last night to commission and no joy. Earlier problem fixed but new weird error messages were the result.

Did a little googling and found out the B & G is very sensitive to voltage drops. So this morning cleaned the hydraulic pump 12V connections and voila! It works!

Thanks again for all the input.