Nomad Willy
Guru
Manufactured by Willard Marine.
1974 Nomad 30
$30k
At LaConnor Wa.
For sale by owner Eric Henning phone 360 202 8815
e-mail .. manyboats1@gmail.com
LOA 30' Beam 10'6" Draft 3'6"
Engine by Klassen. Base engine mfg. by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.
Model S4L2 4 cyl. 107 cu. in. Same bore and stroke as the Perkins it replaced.
Pre-chamber type combustion chamber. Starts more dependably, is smoother and a bit quieter. Industrially rated for 37hp at 3000rpm.
Cruises at 2300rpm and 6.15 knots and burns 1gph.
FW Cooled w heat exchanger remotely installed on bulkhead.
There is no aluminum in contact w the coolant so green AF is used.
Always used Chevron Delo 30W diesel lube oil.
Has a special alloy steel similar to copper nickel alloys. Very durable.
Seawater pump is not in the engine. It's belt driven w very little tension. Pump is a Jabsco brand Bronze pump. Impellers are available in most all hardware stores and auto part stores in SE Alaska.
Exhaust manifold is equipped w a Murphy Switch that measures coolant level and sounds an alarm if lower than usual but before coolant temp would rise.
Manual built-in lube oil pump for easy hot oil changes.
BW gear w 2.57-1 ratio. 18" Michigan bronze "MP" prop. The blades are symmetrical, run smoother and have much more reverse thrust.
The 1.25" shaft and prop are "newish".
Exhaust "elbow" is a SS high rise affair w a FG lift muffler. 135amp Ait. New batt selected switch. Raycor Primary fuel filter w spin-on secondary filter.
Re-designed fuel manifold double hose clamped w Sure Marine hose clamps. Boat has an AGM start batt along w the house batts.
Very heavy hydraulic steering. Bronze rudder. 13 gal. approx holding tank.
Newish seawater intake valve "Kingston Valve".
When I set this boat up I wanted a to be able to start in winter anywhere in SE Alaska. So my "must have" starting system was the glow-plug type. It works perfectly.
One of the big plusses on this boat is the new aluminum fuel tanks fabricated and installed along w the new engine. I was looking for a minimum of suppresses in SE Alaska.
House batts are "Full River" brand. HIGHLY recommended as they have lasted 15 years and show no signs of weakness if not spending multiple nights at anchor. I have been in the habit of disconnecting a start batt cable. Interesting tho that then the electric Rairitan head won't function then.
Large (three day) ice box. Mostly LED lighting. Wabasto furnace w thermostat.
Force 10 propane stove w three burners and tank on roof. Cigarette lighters to run i-pads ect. Electric windshield fan .. no wipers.
Electronics:
JRC basic unit that has always given good service. Ust'a track float planes in and out of Ketchikan. For practice.
GPS is Garmin. Now dated but works fine. I spent umpteen hours on it plotting alt courses and looking for anchorages. odd way of planing many will think but it worked for me.
Sounders: One high end RayMarine digital and the other a cheap fish finder that came w the boat.I was going to tossed it but found it VERY useful in anchorages scouting the bottom. And a marine radio that also came w the boat.
Compass is very good. The best I've ever used. Willard got it right.
Ground tackle is my own preference and few will probably retain. U've never dragged after setting but if I had it to do over I'd get a winch w a gypsy and more chain. A 33lb Lewmar Claw and some of my experimental anchors come w the deal and I have another option.
1974 Nomad 30
$30k
At LaConnor Wa.
For sale by owner Eric Henning phone 360 202 8815
e-mail .. manyboats1@gmail.com
LOA 30' Beam 10'6" Draft 3'6"
Engine by Klassen. Base engine mfg. by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.
Model S4L2 4 cyl. 107 cu. in. Same bore and stroke as the Perkins it replaced.
Pre-chamber type combustion chamber. Starts more dependably, is smoother and a bit quieter. Industrially rated for 37hp at 3000rpm.
Cruises at 2300rpm and 6.15 knots and burns 1gph.
FW Cooled w heat exchanger remotely installed on bulkhead.
There is no aluminum in contact w the coolant so green AF is used.
Always used Chevron Delo 30W diesel lube oil.
Has a special alloy steel similar to copper nickel alloys. Very durable.
Seawater pump is not in the engine. It's belt driven w very little tension. Pump is a Jabsco brand Bronze pump. Impellers are available in most all hardware stores and auto part stores in SE Alaska.
Exhaust manifold is equipped w a Murphy Switch that measures coolant level and sounds an alarm if lower than usual but before coolant temp would rise.
Manual built-in lube oil pump for easy hot oil changes.
BW gear w 2.57-1 ratio. 18" Michigan bronze "MP" prop. The blades are symmetrical, run smoother and have much more reverse thrust.
The 1.25" shaft and prop are "newish".
Exhaust "elbow" is a SS high rise affair w a FG lift muffler. 135amp Ait. New batt selected switch. Raycor Primary fuel filter w spin-on secondary filter.
Re-designed fuel manifold double hose clamped w Sure Marine hose clamps. Boat has an AGM start batt along w the house batts.
Very heavy hydraulic steering. Bronze rudder. 13 gal. approx holding tank.
Newish seawater intake valve "Kingston Valve".
When I set this boat up I wanted a to be able to start in winter anywhere in SE Alaska. So my "must have" starting system was the glow-plug type. It works perfectly.
One of the big plusses on this boat is the new aluminum fuel tanks fabricated and installed along w the new engine. I was looking for a minimum of suppresses in SE Alaska.
House batts are "Full River" brand. HIGHLY recommended as they have lasted 15 years and show no signs of weakness if not spending multiple nights at anchor. I have been in the habit of disconnecting a start batt cable. Interesting tho that then the electric Rairitan head won't function then.
Large (three day) ice box. Mostly LED lighting. Wabasto furnace w thermostat.
Force 10 propane stove w three burners and tank on roof. Cigarette lighters to run i-pads ect. Electric windshield fan .. no wipers.
Electronics:
JRC basic unit that has always given good service. Ust'a track float planes in and out of Ketchikan. For practice.
GPS is Garmin. Now dated but works fine. I spent umpteen hours on it plotting alt courses and looking for anchorages. odd way of planing many will think but it worked for me.
Sounders: One high end RayMarine digital and the other a cheap fish finder that came w the boat.I was going to tossed it but found it VERY useful in anchorages scouting the bottom. And a marine radio that also came w the boat.
Compass is very good. The best I've ever used. Willard got it right.
Ground tackle is my own preference and few will probably retain. U've never dragged after setting but if I had it to do over I'd get a winch w a gypsy and more chain. A 33lb Lewmar Claw and some of my experimental anchors come w the deal and I have another option.
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