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Old 12-23-2019, 03:10 PM   #1
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Horizontal Windlass Recommendations

My 2009 Muir Compact H700 Horizontal windlass finally gave up the ghost. Looking to replace it with another 12 Volt system. Can anyone advise which brands/etc... to steer clear of? Looking at Lofran's Tigres and Muir HR700 so far.
Thanks,

Jim
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Old 12-23-2019, 03:12 PM   #2
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Haven't installed it yet, but I've got a Maxwell HRC10-8 ready to go on the boat. When I did the research, it seemed like everyone who's got one of the HRC10s likes it.
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Old 12-23-2019, 03:23 PM   #3
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I replaced my Muir Cougar with a Lofrans Tigress several years ago.

The Tigress is a fantastic windlass. I often am dead lifting well over 450 pounds when pulling my anchor.
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Old 12-23-2019, 03:32 PM   #4
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Yep, Lofrans. Mine is 30 yrs old, and after we purchased the boat a yr ago, we had the motor rewound and it's working great. First time we anchored out we pulled up a large log stuck in the anchor. The Lofrans pulled it all up with no problem - took me a few minutes to get the log off
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Old 12-23-2019, 03:40 PM   #5
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I replaced my old windlass with the Lofrans Tigres 12V about 5 or 6 years ago.
I'm not a heavy user but no trouble at all.
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Old 12-23-2019, 04:02 PM   #6
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Re Lofranze Tigress from potbellypirate

I posted an ad today of lofrans tigress for sale in classified.(I believe) Aprox 12o.potbellypirate.
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Old 12-23-2019, 04:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoxtrotCharlie View Post
Yep, Lofrans. Mine is 30 yrs old, and after we purchased the boat a yr ago, we had the motor rewound and it's working great. First time we anchored out we pulled up a large log stuck in the anchor. The Lofrans pulled it all up with no problem - took me a few minutes to get the log off
I had my 1980 Lofrans Tigress rewound 2 or 3 yrs ago. In 1994 or 95, I snagged a car hauler trailer and pulled it to the surface. The Tigress complained at the time, but still gave me another ~30 yrs service. After the rewind, back to full power again.
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:16 PM   #8
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Thumbs up for my Maxwell HRC 10-8.
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:21 PM   #9
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Thumbs up for my Maxwell HRC 10-8.
I replaced my old Maxwell/Nillson a few years ago with another Maxwell, but mine was a vertical version.

Vertical Windlass and Capstan Range
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:47 PM   #10
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Our Lofrans Tigress has never let us down, over 30 years old and still going strong....
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:55 PM   #11
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Windlasses are typically very rebuildable, not a throwaway Shops like RC Plath on the west coast and Ideal or GalleyMaid on the east among others can usually rebuild anyones windlass. Muir makes good product. What makes you think it has given up the ghost?
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Old 12-24-2019, 05:53 PM   #12
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I have a Maxwell HW2200 that is powered with 24VDC. If I could have found one that operated from 120AC I would have purchased that. And yes, the windless is gross overkill. It pulls my all chain rode and 80# Manson Supreme as if it was lifting a toy.

All that aside, I would have gone with 24VDC no matter which windlass I had purchased. A 1 volt wiring drop under load is almost 10% power loss meaning a windlass should have extra heavy wiring along with minimizing the distance between the windlass and the power source. Just my thoughts
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Old 12-24-2019, 07:36 PM   #13
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I installed a 1200 watt Lofrans Tigress in 2001.

I have a 66 pound anchor and 5/16" HT chain.

Have anchored in 70 feet of water with no retrieval issues.

We pull the anchor with the windlass 30 to 50 times a year.

Have not had to do anything to it other than annual servicing.

The Tigress deploy and retrieves very fast.

I would recommend the Tigress.
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Old 12-24-2019, 11:55 PM   #14
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I installed a 1200 watt Lofrans Tigress in 2001.

I have a 66 pound anchor and 5/16" HT chain.

Have anchored in 70 feet of water with no retrieval issues.

We pull the anchor with the windlass 30 to 50 times a year.

Have not had to do anything to it other than annual servicing.

The Tigress deploy and retrieves very fast.

I would recommend the Tigress.
What would you service on a Tigress? Mine was in service continuously for ~ 37 yrs without a single "service". When it failed, the windings had failed, not a "service item". When I took it off the boat, I inspected the oil level and found it as it should be, both up to the opening and perfectly clean. Would I have "serviced" at any time during it s lifetime it is more likely I would have introduced some foreign material into the oil than not, to the likely detriment of its lifetime. I will not be "servicing it again until it tells me, by poor performance, that there is some good reason to open it up.
I did lubricate the clutch occasionally, maybe twice in the past 25 yrs. Again not an annual item, rather an "as required" item.
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Old 12-25-2019, 07:31 AM   #15
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https://www.lofrans.com/library

6.1 Maintenance programme
For obtaining the best performances and
the utmost efficiency of the anchor
windlass, it is necessary to follow
strictly the maintenance programme
indicated hereby.
A. Clean all external surfaces and
hidden points with fresh water and
remove all salt layers.
B. Grease the rotating parts.
Particularly, the main shaft threads and
clutch cones. Check for evidences of
corrosion and mechanical stresses.
C. Check the terminals of the electric
motor. Test the voltage drop at the
terminals.
D. Replace all gaskets.
E. Remove the anchor windlass from
the deck to clean the salt under the base
and seal again.


Not a lot of maintenance......
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Old 12-25-2019, 11:05 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
https://www.lofrans.com/library

6.1 Maintenance programme
For obtaining the best performances and
the utmost efficiency of the anchor
windlass, it is necessary to follow
strictly the maintenance programme
indicated hereby.
A. Clean all external surfaces and
hidden points with fresh water and
remove all salt layers.
B. Grease the rotating parts.
Particularly, the main shaft threads and
clutch cones. Check for evidences of
corrosion and mechanical stresses.
C. Check the terminals of the electric
motor. Test the voltage drop at the
terminals.
D. Replace all gaskets.
E. Remove the anchor windlass from
the deck to clean the salt under the base
and seal again.


Not a lot of maintenance......
A Routine for the boat not a Windlass specific item.
B. Done maybe twice in 25 years, and didn't really need it either time. Not an "annual maintenance" item.
C. Done when removing the motor for rewinding, No deficiency found then. Not an "annual Maint" item.
D. Only found 1 gasket, where the case covering the motor fits to the housing. Was in good condition when re & re done, so good for another 35 years.
E. Cleaned when accessible, on removal for rewinding. No buildup found, so not an "annual maint" item. Was able to strio and re-varnish the teak sprit the windlass was mounted on, so that part of the bow looks best now.

Right, Not a lot of maintenance! But I do keep my boat in a shelter in the winter, that really does cut "annual maintenance".
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Old 12-25-2019, 11:42 AM   #17
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The annual maintenance on the Tigress:

Wash the windlass throughly and let dry.

Remove the chain gypsy, warping drum, clutch and associated parts.

The removed parts and shaft are cleaned to remove old grease.

The windlass is reassembled with new water resistant grease.

After reassembly, the windlas exterior is coated with Boeshield rust and corrosion protection.

Every other year, the cover is removed and the wiring terminations cleaned and coated with dielectric paste.

The gearbox has not been serviced in 18 years.
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Old 12-25-2019, 02:04 PM   #18
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Our boat came with a Muir Cheetah in 1996--It is still going strong. If and when it fails I would get it fixed or replace with the same.
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Old 12-25-2019, 06:14 PM   #19
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We recently replaced a fried Lewmar 700 with a vertical Maxwell 10-8, and gor a very good price from hodgesmarine.com
Plenty of power for our 80lb Manson Supreme and the (I have never put it all in the water) 300ft of 5/16 G4.
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Old 12-25-2019, 07:45 PM   #20
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New Muir horizontal windlasses range between $2K and 4KAUD here. The motor died in mine and Muir replaced it, my cost. Everything else was perfect. Why not assess repair before replacement? No new holes to drill, no holes to fill, no rewiring, etc...
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