Starboard alternative?

[mncruiser]

USE ALUMINUM
How about using 2 pcs of alum angle (`or flat stock) per end.
Cut the beam tab (with existing screw holes) to a 45° angle on both sides of the T leg.
Mount the two angle pcs at 45° angle screwed into the beam similar to existing.
The beam now drops into a V slot for location & support.
The only odd cutting /machining would be the 45° cuts of the beam end tabs. Do you know anyone with a power hacksaw? Or just ask a local shop to cut them cleanly. Even the angle is not critical as you just mount the angle supports to match what ever the beam is. The only other cuts are straight cut off of stock and not critical... drill & countersink screw holes for mounting... could switch to through bolts of you have access to the backside of the support beams.

Another great idea. Thank you!

 

[Comodave]

I would take some 3/4” plywood and cut a slot for the vertical piece of the beam. Then route out the back side for the part that has the screws holding the beam. Then you just slide the beam up and out of the new plywood bracket. Make the plywood bracket large enough to be able to screw it to the wood beams in the boat.

 

[C lectric]

I agree about using some machine screws to secure it all instead of screws as long as rear access is possible.

Metal on metal may rattle unless the hatch actually puts pressure on the beam.
I would prefer wood for its sound dampening.

 

[Hippocampus]

agree would use aluminum. If necessary make a drawing of the needed bracket(s) and bring them to someone who knows how to TIG weld. If I understand the project correctly you want to support two ends of a beam with brackets. If so ( and I’m interpreting the picture correctly)there’s a fair amount of weight involved. Just think of two or three chunky monkeys standing on that section of sole right over the beam. Those brackets would be weight bearing and starboard would deform. If you’re committed to synthetic would use G10 or equivalent. I don’t trust starboard in anyplace where significant weight or force is involved. My 2 cents.

 

[Bacchus]

I

Metal on metal may rattle unless the hatch actually puts pressure on the beam.
I would prefer wood for its sound dampening.

My thought is the "V" shape would minimize any movement or vibration as any downward force tightens the mating. If fine tuning needed to get the correct down force maybe add a thin foam rubber or even layer(s) of Gorilla tape to the top of the beam. It looks like that might have been done on the Ex: pics OP posted of another owners project.
To get very close tolerance on square supports they may result in binding... hence the benefit of a "V"

 

[Pcpete]

Here’s another alternative. Cheaper than starboard, but will do what you are after.
https://coosacomposites.com/

 

[Brooksie]

Really no need for plastics or rot resistant materials here. This is a job for oak or plywood. Stuff you find on the ground at the boatyard...

 

[Rthomas]

Alternative

Reinforce the hatch instead. Remove the aluminum support. Glue and screw a piece of hardwood 2X2 lengthwise to the underside of the hatch. My Main ship 43 has a similarly sized hatch and it does exactly that. A $10 solution.

 

[jleonard]

I would take some 3/4” plywood and cut a slot for the vertical piece of the beam. Then route out the back side for the part that has the screws holding the beam. Then you just slide the beam up and out of the new plywood bracket. Make the plywood bracket large enough to be able to screw it to the wood beams in the boat.

This would be my approach as well. Double it up if you need a thicker nest.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

I dislike Starboard for structural applications, it's dimensionally unstable, it gets dirty, and it cracks at fastener holes. The marine industry has gone overboard, pardon the pun, with its use, but that's only because we don't have a good alternative. GPO3, essentially prefabricated fiberglass, is good, strong, stable and can be painted, but it's heavy, if that matters, and not cheap. Did I mention I dislike Starboard?

I second plywood (doesn't need to be marine or pressure treated for this application), route the edges, fill, sand and paint it and you'll never know it's wood.

 

[Sofa King Fishy]

What's wrong with good old fashioned pressure treated lumber ?

Yes- and you can just soak those 20 year old dock lines in some bleach water. Just like new!

 

[Myon]

Metal against metal can rattle unless the hatch puts pressure on it. I prefer wood to dampen its sound. Agree about using some machine screws to secure it all instead of screws.

 

[Bacchus]

QUOTE=Sofa King Fishy;1094427]Yes- and you can just soak those 20 year old dock lines in some bleach water. Just like new![/QUOTE]

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Here’s another alternative. Cheaper than starboard, but will do what you are after.
https://coosacomposites.com/

Agree, I love Coosa, but probably overkill in this case, it's expensive, and light(er), and there's no need for weight savings.

 

[Capn Bob]

Good substitute for Starboard

I recently needed to make a sort of backing plate or escutcheon for a light fixture. Starboard bring very costly, I decided to fabricate it using a HDPE cutting board (same thing Starboard is made from). I needed a 1” thick piece, but 1” Starboard is really pricey so I ordered a 1” thick Winco commercial 12”x18” cutting board from Amazon. They come in several colors (kitchens need to use a specific board for each purpose), but I used white. It’s more like a semi-opaque white, but it served the purpose beautifully. It was around $35.

 

[Benthic2]

Yes- and you can just soak those 20 year old dock lines in some bleach water. Just like new!

I'm not sure what you are saying.... you don't think PT lumber would be strong enough?

I would absolutely NOT use PVC* lumber for anything load bearing....especially in an area that could have heat build up.

*PVC pipe is really strong. If you wanted to put a leg under the beam a piece of 2 inch PVC pipe with a slot on the end would be fast, cheap and strong.

 

[SIBERNUT]

I just got quoted about $350 for a 4x8x1/2 sheet of Starboard. And they won't sell a half sheet..........

 

[Comodave]

I just got quoted about $350 for a 4x8x1/2 sheet of Starboard. And they won't sell a half sheet..........

I have bought full sheets before, wish I still had some more of it left. I never throw away any Starboard scraps, sooner or later I will find a use for them. One time I bought a full sheet of 1” and it was pretty pricey then so I would hate to think what it would cost now.

 

[tiltrider1]

I just got quoted about $350 for a 4x8x1/2 sheet of Starboard. And they won't sell a half sheet..........

Sounds like a fair price. If you got room to store and the ability to cut a sheet that large it will be worth the investment

 

[Pete Meisinger]

My beams (I guess you would call them that). Are oak, painted. It is not a hostile environment where they are placed. Mine have lasted 40 years so far and are rock solid.

pete

 

[PhilPB]

I just got quoted about $350 for a 4x8x1/2 sheet of Starboard. And they won't sell a half sheet..........

Home Depot has full sheets @ 1/2" for $298 and 1/4 sheet (2'x4') for $78.

 

[jgwinks]

I bought some composite decking material from HD last year,, the first time I have used it.. I built a set of stairs for a front porch that had weather badly in the past.. I found the material to be surprisingly easy to work with and tough as an old railroad nail in use..
I would not hesitate to use it for support structures as you describe,, impervious to moisture,, will not warp,,and never needs painting..>>>Dan

A lot of the decking products are hollow or have big grooves on the back to save material and cost. You'll probably need the solid rectangular kind so you'll have to shop around.

 

[tiz]

FYI I made my brackets out of 1/4” aluminum. Works fine. No rattle.

2001 ms 390.

—Kevin