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Old 02-28-2019, 09:32 AM   #21
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No sealer. A little nail polish around the cap/zinc interface works well and looks good
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Old 03-04-2019, 06:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Clifton View Post
Since it is much cheaper to buy just the anode and reuse the brass pipe plug, that is what I have been doing the past few years. But when they are removed from the heat exchanger, it is usually difficult to unscrew the anode from the plug. Sometimes I will need to drill the remaining anode and re-tap the threads. I have had to discard many plugs in the past and I am getting low on them.

So I am wondering if using anti seize on the anode threads would be acceptable. Here is some information I found on the internet:

Graphite is an excellent conductor of electricity and high temperature solid lubricant (up to 900 degrees F). It is therefore widely used in formulations of anti-seize. In assemblies with electrical current running through a fastened joint such as the threads of spark plugs, ground screws, and antennae connections, anti-seize can be used with minimal increase to resistance. Corrosion of a threaded joint increases the electrical resistance. The use of anti-seize on these types of connections will ensure current is transmitted reliably by preventing corrosion.

What is the general consensus on doing this?
Graphite-based anti-seize should not be used in marine application, it is extremely noble, i.e. every other metal, when in contact with it and and electrolyte (seawater) will corrode. If you were going to use an anti-seize I'd use a nickel or copper base. However, I'd run a test, before and after coating the threads and screwing the anode into the plug I'd check the continuity, anything over one ohm is too much, make certain the anti-seize is not increasing resistance. The fact is, I don't believe you need anti-seize per se, you could use a dielectric grease like Teflon Superlube, or a conductant paste like Koper Shield.
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:28 PM   #23
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My plugs have been reused many times. I'm still using ones that came with the boat. I use a never seize like product on the zinc threads because it's easier to unscrew later. I don't use anything on the plug threads. The zincs seem to dissolve at about the same rate I saw in other boats and engines.
For you people with small engines that come w/o zincs, I usually find a place to put a zinc and afterwards, they dissolve just like the ones on the main engines.
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Old 03-08-2019, 06:02 AM   #24
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Getting the old zinc out can always be a chore. If you want to save the plug, drill as close to the center of the old zinc with a smaller diameter drill bit, you can then use a flat blade screw driver or similar tool, to grip inside the hole and screw out. To clean the threads, get an end tap of the proper size thread of your plug, to chase out the threads.
It sounds like work but only takes a couple of minutes.
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Old 03-08-2019, 08:59 AM   #25
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I just replaced my zincs (12 between both motors) last week. I usually buy just the anode and reuse the caps, but this time I couldn't get the old anodes out of most of the caps. Maybe I waited a little too long this time, or maybe the caps just finally had enough, who knows.


Anyway, at WM the pencils are dirt cheap with Port Supply, like .89 but the full zincs with cap are way more, like $7.50. So over $50.00 in savings to save the caps. Worth it in my opinion,
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:04 PM   #26
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I get my zinc at boatzincs.com, Its the best price I have found.
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