Sealant for stainless steel thru hull fittings?

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jhance

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
236
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Audrey Grace
Vessel Make
2003 Camano 31
Boatlife Life Seal, Boatlife Life Caulk, of 4200? Replacing plastic thru hulls above the waterline with stainless on a 31 Camano Troll. Life Seal says "specifically for fiberglass" but not clear if it is OK for a fitting against the gel coat? I suspect any of these will do the job?
 
They will all work but I prefer Sika 291. I have used all of the ones you mentioned but I still prefer the Sika.
 
You are not going to replace a SS through hull for the life of the boat.

This is a job for 5200

I like the fast cure version
 
I’m w Kieth,
When I worked at Uniflite on navy boats Thiokol sealer/bedding compound was specified. I think it’s the same as 5200. You can’t beat the adhesion and the sealer doing the work is shielded from sunlight. If one needs to remove it heat is said to work quite well. Haven’t heard directly from one that has used it and removed it though.

I usually use Siks-Flex on plastic and wood but I see no reason to shy from using 5200 on FG and strong metals.
 
Except there is no reason that you need an adhesive as strong as 5200. The through hull will be bolted onto the hull. Adhesive isn’t needed, sealant is. Why put 5200 where it isn’t needed and have the potential for some day needing to remove it and it is then a big job. And has the potential for damage to the fiberglass since 5200 can take the gelcoat and some fiberglass with it. Not needed in this application.
 
To answer the specific question, I'd use 3M 4000UV (vs 4200) for an above-the-waterline thru-hull.

It has just become my go to for most things above the water line, because I find it more universal, e.g. works better on metals than 4200, and doesn't yellow in the sun like 4200. I don't even keep 4200 on hand anymore.

Having said that, I'll admit that I use DynaFlex 230 to seal acrylic into ports, around vinyl windows, and similar. I know it isn't marine rated, so I don't recommend it, but I somehow got started using it, and it hasn't let me down. It seems to stick to everything and be super flexible, so when things want to flex, it still gets it done when other things let go or dry out and brittle in the sun and then let go. I've never had it fail. But, I do use it only in those limited cases, and wouldn't use it on a thru-hull.

As for 5200, I use it only below the water line. It doesn't stick to some plastics, in particular some vinyl windows I've tried to use it on, and some metals, in particular some aluminum windows I tried to use it on. Where it does bond, it doesn't flex, which has sometimes caused flexing substrate to fail, e.g. a top layer come off, and with it the seal, where more flexible sealants have succeeded. It is thinner than other sealants and gets all over, especially when my sloppy self uses it. And, even the fast cure is a slow cure. I've seen the center of thick beads uncured days later, maybe even weeks. There is a lot made of the fact that, when it does bond, it is permanent, but personally, I put that in a plus. I'm glad it doesn't let go of the stuff underneath. And, when I've had to remove it, I've just cut and pried and cleaned up. Hasn't always been fun. But, has always gotten done.
 
My plastic fitting that broke fell off the exterior of the boat. There was hardly any sealant left on the gel coat. It must have been a caulk and not an adhesive. So I think I need a waterproof sealant with a little adhesion properties. That's what seems to be good about hybrid sealants like Boatlife Life Seal that is part marine silicone (for waterproofing) and part polyurethane (for adhesion). From my understanding it's the best of both properties. 5200 seems like way too much adhesive in this application above the waterline; caulk seems like not enough redundancy in case the nut backs off or the fitting breaks and falls into the water again.
 
A ny of those will work, but I would use 4000 UV as well. Any 5200 or 4200 exposed to the sun will over time yellow, harden, and crack. it won't jeopardize the seal, that is all happening under the flange, but it'll start to look old. On the other hand if it is masked correctly there won't be much exposed.

Even 5200 can be removed, it's just a lot of work.
 
Heresy to think any thru-hull fitting, sea valves, transducers, drivetrain fittings etc. is installed forever. One of the first rules of running a yacht or commercial hull is know where every thru hull is, have a DC plug for it and remove periodically for inspection and re-bedding. Furthermore SS thru hull valves can be a corrosion problem depending on alloy, sea temp, water/oxygen flow, or contaminants. Stainless steel deprived of oxygen even 316 series can develop crevice corrosion and since almost all SS valves are ball type a pitted ball will damage the plastic seat preventing a watertight seal. Stainless steel is not always the best fit.
 
My plastic fitting that broke fell off the exterior of the boat. There was hardly any sealant left on the gel coat. It must have been a caulk and not an adhesive. So I think I need a waterproof sealant with a little adhesion properties. That's what seems to be good about hybrid sealants like Boatlife Life Seal that is part marine silicone (for waterproofing) and part polyurethane (for adhesion). From my understanding it's the best of both properties. 5200 seems like way too much adhesive in this application above the waterline; caulk seems like not enough redundancy in case the nut backs off or the fitting breaks and falls into the water again.

That is why I never use a plastic through hull. I use stainless steel above the waterline and bronze below the waterline. The through hull nut isn’t likely to ever back off, what would cause that if you got it tight to begin with. If you think that it may be an issue then use something like Locktite but don’t use the really strong version. I used to use Life Seal but it always seemed to turn dark over time and wouldn’t clean up. I started using the Sika products and like them much better. I almost never use 5200, maybe a transducer that I will never remove and it will be the next owners problem...
 
3M 5200 is a polyurethane compound so no thiokol. The USN spec’d thiokol products a lot as Eric said. Thiokol is found generally in polysulphide products like Boatlife but also in two part poluysulphide epoxy caulking or seam compounds like the old Marine-Tex and Grove. Great stuff like but difficult to handle for many.

5200 is certainly a wonderful bedding adhesive but dangerous in the wrong places. I once had a customer with a wood GB 42 that while getting underway told his Grandson to pull in the fenders. The poor kid grabbed the line from the rails and flung the big fenders onboard port and starboard. Grandpa was on the bridge so he never saw the fenders fly onboard, hit the end of their lines, and swing in to break two windshields. As a good customer we took on the repairs but what a nightmare. These people bought the boat three years earlier as a bank repo and told us many of the windows had been shot out, BB’s who knows. They had a local yard repair them. Well the boneheads in the yard used 5200 to install and bed all the mahogany external deck house window frames. Removal was almost impossible at first but with careful Japanese thin kerf sawing, chisel work and routing we were getting there slooowly. Then one of my crew came up with a genius technique. We ground off the paint and removed the screws then cut small wood finger wedges and started the frames enough to get hot hacksaw blades into the joint. Using a propane torch and a hot blade melted the 5200 and the wedges took it from there. We told the owners if they break anymore windows just sell the boat.
 
I would ABSOLUTELY NOT use 5200! You want a sealant for water protection and just to hold the thing in place. 5200 is for structural and I won't even use it on ANY thru hull.



I could argue strongly for 4200 UV. It's perfect for that application... to just seal it.


Sika 291 is a good product, too... they have lots of products that are good.
 

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