Seacock question...

[psneeld]

This is why I took the gamble and did the Groco flange with the generic screw on ball valve.

The flange should last on the boat for longer than me and probably the boat...the ball valve is relatively inexpensive and no need to haul to replace it. In a pinch...any correct sized ball valve, even a gate valve could be used till the proper replacement is obtained.

I say gamble because it all sounds good in the simple...let's see how King Neptune sings his tune over the long haul.

 

[HopCar]

PS, I think that's a perfectly good plan. I would have sprung for a Groco or Apollo ball valve because I know they last a long time but your plan will work as well.

 

[C lectric]

The rest of the world changed to ball valves for a reason. Taper plug valves are typically used in slurry service, and not much else.

Yes, you are right.

However, I have seen more than just a few SS ball [316] valves that were showing signs of trouble. I have also had a few where the ball slot or handle drive tang failed even in supposedly good stuff. They , the SS, are not as foolproof or corrosion resistant as many believe, especially in seawater service.

Overall, the ball valves are a better valve but those old seacocks were darn good units.

However, all seacocks need to be inspected for signs of corrosion or operation problems periodically no matter what they are made of.

 

[FF]

Still thinking about replacing them since Groco stopped making parts for them, including the rubber wear parts, in the 1990s. Too bad because they feel like they were built like tanks.

IF the T handle is loosened before the Groco is turned there is almost no wear on the rubber, so no need for replacement parts.

The Groco is best for almost never operated line like a head discharge..

I would much prefer a tapered valve if securing the engine intake was the drill after engine use.