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Old 02-17-2016, 07:38 PM   #21
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,264
Originally Posted by Vashonshelter View Post
So it sound like capping the exposed area with about an inch of cement, epoxy and then fiberglassing back in to original level for water drainage to the sump. I keep reviewing your suggestions so hopefully I gather the best final solution.

This morning I dug down to the bottom of the fiberglass hold and drew out as much water as I could with a turkey baster. I'll have to keep doing this for a while as the water migrates to the hole. As I'm doing this and considering plan A to open hole in the other end so I can push some warm air through and dry it out I realize the material is packed too tight for it to ever dry out.

So as was suggested from the beginning the way to dry it out would be to remove all the material. Obviously this would be a pretty involved job have to tear out the fiberglass structure to remove fuel and water tanks - and I expect it would turn into even more. So I'm really reluctant to go there.

Another idea a friend of mine suggested was putting antifreeze in and that seems sort of reasonable to me. The problem with the moisture I think is with the freeze thaw cycles. The potential problem with the metal casings is rust and that that will cause the particles to bind and expand (of course I am guessing cause I'm obviously not real knowledgeable about this stuff). So if I get as much moisture out as I can and put antifreeze say up about 2" from the bottom and fiberglass in a 3" piece of pvc with a slot up the side from the bottom up about 6" and wrapped with a stainless screen and a screw cap on top I'll have a water tight inspection hole. Then I can occasionally inspect for water level/intrusion and refresh the antifreeze.

The reason it it seems like this may work is antifreeze has rust inhibitor therefore protecting the metal casings and keep the water from freezing so I don't have the expansion from that. One question in my mind is what the antifreeze solution might do to the fiberglass hold. I'm referring to it as a hold because it appears to me like an independent chamber to hold these metal casings for ballast. It appears to me like this is not part of the hull. So it seems like glass should hold up to water as that's what glass boats do -albeit usually with some sort of coating. But will the antifreeze break the glass down and would there be a better method here.

It seems the right way would be to do the work and tear it all out but even if I did all this and successfully enclosed it, wouldn't water make it back into this chamber through condensation. This thought and the work involved leads me to think the above solution may be appropriate. I have to go to work on the ferry for a week so won't be able to respond for a bit but do appreciate the response and suggestions much. I would hate to give up on this boat. Thanks
No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor

Over a long time, glycol in antifreeze can form glycolic acid which then causes rust.
This product above will prevent that. The solution becoming acidic was the one thing that concerned me about your idea. Of course this app is not in an engine, so maybe it wont? but why take that chance.

Otherwise, ethylene glycol should not affect epoxy or resin, but I would ask and look into it too. Antifreeze contaminating a bonding surface will interfere with glues, so be careful to clean with an appropriate solution the surface.
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Old 02-17-2016, 08:58 PM   #22
City: Juneau
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 14
Thanks sdowny

I'll use your recommendation and greatly appreciate your knowledge here. No Rosion. No rust!
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:57 PM   #23
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City: St. Petersburg, Florida
Vessel Name: M/V Sherpa
Vessel Model: 24' Vashon Diesel Cruiser
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 595


Did you ever get this matter repaired? How did it turn out?
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:27 PM   #24
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
IF you can get it reasonably dry , and still worry , I would use small say one or two quart epoxy pours to slowly fill it up.

Rust expands and cracks concrete but the epoxy should be moisture tight , and flexible enough not to crack if there is a bit of rust.
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:19 PM   #25
City: oxford, md
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 17

This maybe too late, but I have a Vashon Pocket trawler and repowered it with a new diesel. When the old engine was removed, I noticed rust appearing under the bed and started poking around. It was iron punchings and initially I was dismayed, but got out a three pound mall and metal chisel and pounded this lump out. After this, everything was clean and dry.
If you do this, as I recommend, save all the metal punchings in a 5 gallon bucket and weigh each one. This important for you to have the proper balance in the boat. If my memory serves me, mine weighed about 600 pounds. Then I went to a salvage yard and bought 600 pounds of lead and placed it in the empty hold and used Gluvit to anchor it in, pouring a gallon at a time to avoid a heat buildup. After the new ballast was completely covered by the Gluvit, I glassed everything in and haven't had any problems since.
I would not try to save the iron punchings in any manner shape or form as they will expand as the rusting process continues and I definitely would not use concrete as ballast.
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