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04-09-2021, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Veteran Member
City: Portland
Vessel Name: Scout
Vessel Model: Grand Banks EU 47
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 34
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Opinion - Teak or Fiberglass Dash on FB
Looking for peoples opinion, because frankly, I'm stuck.
We have a new (to us) 2008 Grand Banks EU 47 and we're putting new electronics in, so the dash on the flybridge where the monitors are now has to be rebuilt so they can re-cut. See the picture below. I was thinking of having the dash re-glassed, but realized having a piece of varnished teak that the MFD's would be mounted to instead could look sharp. Thoughts on what would look best? Any other opinions/advice?
The boat is boathouse kept, so the wear and tear on teak is there, but less of an issue. I've already spoken to the vendors, and the teak is actually cheaper.
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04-09-2021, 10:39 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Longboat Key, FL
Vessel Name: Bucky
Vessel Model: Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,196
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I did my dash instrument console in glass a few years ago, but now I’m thinking to cover it in teak veneer to cut down on glare. No problem, mind you, but the teak is much easier on the eyes after a long day at the helm.
__________________
Larry
"When life gets hard, eat marshmallows”.
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04-09-2021, 11:30 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: .
Vessel Name: GOTCHA
Vessel Model: Hatteras 58 LRC
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,100
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I hate plastic (FRP) ! But the teak will become dry and splintery in the sunlight.
The plastic can always be repaired if you mess-up or want to change things.
You may want to look at a large panel if black Formica to use as a dash insert.
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Captain F. Lee - R.P.E.
USCG 200 GT Master
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04-09-2021, 11:34 AM
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#4
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Guru
City: Everett, WA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 38'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 799
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If boat house kept, then Teak. Easier to replace and re-configure if needed down the road, plus it will look kinda snazzy.
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04-09-2021, 11:41 AM
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#5
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Guru
City: San Francisco
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 3,089
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When you say have it re-glassed, are they actually going to wet lay fiberglass over the holes?
What I would do is get a piece of G10 fiberglass, cut a huge hole in the console leaving only a flange at the edge, and then cut the G10 panel to overlay that. Can be redone at any time and multiple times for refreshes, gives access behind, etc. You could do the same thing with a teak panel but in my opinion teak belongs inside, protected from the weather always.
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04-09-2021, 11:50 AM
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#6
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Guru
City: US PNW
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 943
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Just as another option (not sure which I'd choose myself), many smaller powerboats use custom cut acrylic panels. Matte or gloss. Oftentimes black (for the look) but could be another color.
These are cut to your exact layout and you can have the instruments flush or even back (no fasteners showing) mounted. I think New Wire Marine may do them (or be connected to whomever does).
Exact material aside, I'd go for some sort of overlaid panel (even if it is matching white gelcoat) vs filling to like new. Why? Because I think it's inevitable that electronics change, so why not set up a "system" to accommodate that (replaceable top panel).
Congrats on a lovely boat (and boathouse....drool!)
Frosty
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04-09-2021, 11:53 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: Annapolis
Vessel Name: Ranger
Vessel Model: 58' Sedan Bridge
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,068
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G10 or acrylic panel.
No teak; can look nice, for a while... pain in the neck otherwise.
-Chris
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Chesapeake Bay, USA
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04-09-2021, 12:31 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Qualicum Beach, Vancouver Island
Vessel Name: Capricorn
Vessel Model: Mariner 30 - Sedan Cruiser 1969
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,019
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The nice thing about an acrylic panel is that it can easily be removed and replaced in the far future. If it twir I, I'd built a mock up of the plastic panel with cutouts, take it to a plastic guy (they make lots of stuff for boats) and have him do it. The cost will be amazingly low for a boat thing.
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04-09-2021, 12:31 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,131
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If you are looking to cut down on glare you could use a piece of black starboard to cover the panel and cut out for the MFD. Starboard is very easy to work with. We also have used boat blanket material from Sailrite cut to fit the dash. We snap it down. It cuts glare out completely and also helps stop things from sliding around.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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04-09-2021, 01:32 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: West Coast
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,789
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I don't have a link, but there are services that will CNC cut a panel for you with holes for your equipment in the exact size and place you need. And they offer various materials, including some flat black plastics.
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04-09-2021, 01:44 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
Vessel Name: FROLIC
Vessel Model: Mainship 30 Pilot II since 2015. GB-42 1986-2015. Former Unlimited Tonnage Master
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,977
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Have it BOTH WAYS
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDW
When you say have it re-glassed, are they actually going to wet lay fiberglass over the holes?
What I would do is get a piece of G10 fiberglass, cut a huge hole in the console leaving only a flange at the edge, and then cut the G10 panel to overlay that. Can be redone at any time and multiple times for refreshes, gives access behind, etc. You could do the same thing with a teak panel but in my opinion teak belongs inside, protected from the weather always.
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I think this is a good idea, BUT you can lay a teak veneer over the G10 and prepare it as if it was an exterior teak railing before you cut the holes. I would apply a satin coating as the last coat to avoid glare.
__________________
Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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04-09-2021, 08:05 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Windmill Harbour, Hilton Head Island, SC
Vessel Name: River Girl
Vessel Model: 2004 DeFever 49 RPH
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 570
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Many just use white or black starboard - covers a multitude of sins!
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Jeremy
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04-09-2021, 08:25 PM
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#13
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Scraping Paint
City: PNW
Vessel Model: 1984 Ponderosa 48 CPMY
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 105
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I had custom burl wood panels made from an outfit in Florida. I'll get photos and details when I get on the boat tomorrow.
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04-09-2021, 08:32 PM
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#14
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,541
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Greetings,
Mr./Ms. Ml. Welcome aboard!!!
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RTF
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04-10-2021, 05:55 AM
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#15
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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Replacing electric goodies is very common , a removable panel would be a big help and using cannon plugs for the equipment power will make the next set of replacements even easier to install.
If the panel were hinged for EZ access it would make disconnecting the electronics easier when the thunder storms are in sight.
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04-10-2021, 06:32 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
City: Swansea
Vessel Name: Seaview
Vessel Model: Sundowner 32
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 317
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I just had mine done using black starboard. I love it.
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04-10-2021, 10:49 AM
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#17
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Guru
City: Seattle
Vessel Name: AZZURRA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 54
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 4,281
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I don’t think there is a wrong choice.
Acrylic would be at the bottom of my list however it has the greatest choice of colors.
Polycarbonate would be a better choice for durability.
ABS or HDPE(starboard) are fairly equal choices for looks and durability. I prefer ABS over HDPE because of a higher melting point and greater flexibility but we are talking very minor differences.
Teak done in varnish would be low on my list. However, teak done in Awlwood or one of the other 2 part finishes would be at the top of my list.
Glassing it in and starting over is high on my list if matching gel coat is easy.
Glass, teak(2 part finish), ABS, HDPE are good choices.
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04-10-2021, 12:40 PM
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#18
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TF Site Team
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mliemon2
Looking for peoples opinion, because frankly, I'm stuck.
We have a new (to us) 2008 Grand Banks EU 47 and we're putting new electronics in, so the dash on the flybridge where the monitors are now has to be rebuilt so they can re-cut. See the picture below. I was thinking of having the dash re-glassed, but realized having a piece of varnished teak that the MFD's would be mounted to instead could look sharp. Thoughts on what would look best? Any other opinions/advice?
The boat is boathouse kept, so the wear and tear on teak is there, but less of an issue. I've already spoken to the vendors, and the teak is actually cheaper.
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Are your helm chairs in good conditions? fabric to match them? or redo those chairs in a nice buttery leather, with the dashboard in the same? Then when you are having to redo the chairs in 20 years or so, do the helm as well.
__________________
Keith
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04-10-2021, 04:10 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
City: NE Florida
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 273
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no experience with this sort of thing, but I would wonder about some of these new weather resistant wood products, such as phenolic impregnated and thermal enhanced woods that are weather resistant. Might be interesting a=for a low maintenance accent wood piece.
I work in an architectural wood finishes business, and we only focus on interior applications, and exterior only where protected form direct weather exposure.... so I don't compete in that area but I do run across these items specified form time to time. It's used for applications such as building siding, exterior walls, etc.... Saw one just this week called compactwood.
what about treating some teak, or a hardwood of your choice, with CPES?
https://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
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04-10-2021, 04:27 PM
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#20
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Guru
City: Gibsons, B.C., Canada
Vessel Name: Island Pride
Vessel Model: Palmer 32'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,409
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Teak would look very nice if you are so inclined.
If you go that route then I would make, have made, a canvas cover to be installed when you are not running the boat. A medium colour, one of the greys would block the sun quite well.
I see you have a bimini top and side curtains so the panel would not be totally exposed.
You will have to be prepared to re varnish but maybe every two to three years instead of yearly if left totally in the open.
Just build up a good coat initially and then when it begins to dull apply three or four coats.
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