DIY holding tank treatment

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Steven Cyr

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
Messages
6
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Grace
Vessel Make
North Pacific 43 Pilothouse
I have struggled for years finding a holding tank treatment that would work through the hot summer months. After trying various liquid treatments over the years, I experimented with a popular powder called Noflex Digester. It seemed to work but it was expensive to use. I gave up on it because of the expense of using it in the proportions needed to keep the odors down. This year I decided to give it another go and bought three 1 LB cans of it, which cost me over 60 bucks. You have to use a lot of it to initially get the tank fairly clean, and for it to work properly. The dosage suggested is the absolute minimum, and you will likely need to use more, especially as tank temperature get warmer in the summertime. My final conclusion was that it did work better than all the other liquid treatments I had tried, but I still had to exceed the suggested dosage for it to work well. I am familiar with the head mistress and her recommendations, but my system just can’t freely vent enough air to keep oxygen levels up. I suspect the digester compound works so well because it produces oxygen in the tank to keep a good balance of aerobic bacteria working.
My issue with this product was paying so much for what was basically highly oxygenated laundry detergent. I tried to contact the company to see if I could by it in larger more cost efficient containers, but I never received a reply. Finally I decided figure out for myself, what is in it, and if I could come up with a compound that would work as well, but wouldn’t be putting money down the toilet. The following is the result of that investigation.
The SDS for the Digester product states that it includes approximately:
Sodium Carbonate Peroxyhydrate 40 to 60%
Sodium Carbonate 10-20%
C8-10 alcohols Ethoxylated Propoxylated 1-5%
These are the basic ingredients of laundry detergent but in much different proportions. Also to add more confusion into the formula, there are many different names for the same compounds. So let’s break this down.
1. Sodium Carbonate Peroxyhydrate is a technically more descriptive name for the same compound commonly known as sodium carbonate peroxide or sodium percarbonate. This is an environmentally friendly product used for a variety of things. It can be used to control certain vegetation in lakes while not impacting desirable plants and fish. Brewers use it to clean vessels used in beer making. When combined with water, it will break down into soda ash, and hydrogen peroxide which will further break down into water and oxygen. Oxygen is what you need to keep your “good aerobic bacteria” working in your tank. Pure Sodium Percarbonate is not cheap, but you can by it in 10 lb. buckets on Amazon for about $5.00/lb.
2. Next ingredient is sodium carbonate. It is also commonly known as disodium carbonate, washing soda, or soda ash. This is the base ingredient for powdered laundry detergent. It is also used in glass manufacturing and as a water softener. Arm & Hammer powdered laundry detergent is about 81% disodium carbonate (sodium carbonate). It also has about 7.3% Alcohols, C12-15, ethoxylated.
3. The third ingredient is ethoxylated alcohol. Ethoxylated alcohols are used as wetting agents and help to breakup greasy or fatty compounds. They help detergents work better.
These 2nd two ingredients are the basis of Arm & Hammer powdered laundry detergent.
Reading various discussion groups on this same subject, I seen the question, “what about Oxiclean?” Oxiclean does work using oxygen in the form of sodium percarbonate, but the concentration doesn’t come close to Digester. The SDS for Oxiclean states it is between 10-30% sodium Percarbonate, and 72% sodium carbonate. So this is a really poor source of sodium Percarbonate for the holding tank. Powdered laundry detergent with Oxiclean has even lees percarbonate.
So I began my investigation for a good source of sodium carbonate, that might already have the other agents like the ethoxylated alcohol and other surfactants, and agents that would assist in doing what Digester does. Living in USA, I was familiar with the industry leader, Arm & Hammer Company, in manufacture of sodium carbonate products so I began there. Arm & Hammer Powdered Laundry Detergent is what I settled on. The SDS states the following contents:
Disodium carbonate, 80.2 - 82.9%
Alcohols, C12-15, ethoxylated 6.8 - 7.8%
I purchased a 10 LB bucket of sodium per carbonate on Amazon and a box of Arm & Hammer powdered Laundry Detergent at Walmart. I blended my first trial batch at a ratio of 3 parts percarbonate to 2 parts detergent. That gave me a blend of approximately 60% sodium percarbonate, 32% sodium carbonate, 3% alcohol, and 4% other (which I believe to be mostly baking soda in the detergent.) I refilled my empty 1 lb Digester cans. I liked that size can for storage in the head. That blend worked pretty well, but the scent of the detergent was noticeable. It smelled like we were doing laundry after we flushed the toilet. Head odors remained under control and Pumpout were cleaner that previous. My next test batch was blended at a ratio of 2 parts percarbonate to 1 part detergent. That resulted in a blend that was approximately 66% sodium percarbonate, 27% sodium carbonate, 2.5% alcohol, and 3% other. I liked that even better, and that is what I settled on. The detergent scent wasn’t noticeable anymore, and the extra oxygen in the tank can only help. This isn’t an exact copy of the Digester formula, but seems to work as well or even better, at less than 25% of the cost. At $5.00/LB for the sodium percarbonate, and $3.00/LB for the detergent, the homemade blend works out to $4.33/LB.
With the cost being so much lower, I’m not tempted to under treat the tank and get into a stinky situation. Also it helps to spread the dosage over time to keep the tank oxygenated. I do half the daily dosage in the morning and half in the evening. That really works great.
The dosage for Digester calls for a tablespoon per person every two days. I found that didn’t cut it in my system so I had to double that in the summer. That meant one tablespoon each day per person. We are two on my boat so I use two tablespoons a day. One in the morning, and one in the evening. So far I am very happy with the results.
Just wanted to share what works for me!
 
I just put in a Groco Sweetank and then didn’t use any chemicals for 8 years.
 
When we get a pong it's time to empty

We don't use anything and have been fine for 6 years full time
We do have a breather in the hull side
 
Steve
Good write up. I've been using NoFlex but plan to change over to Sodium PerCarbonate when my supply is exhausted.
I add a low cost DIY tank bubbling "system" that I believe has been instrumental in curing a very severe odor problem.
See https://dkloeber.wixsite.com/bacchus/projects-pg-2
I searched for years to figure out how to improve my vent without success. I eventually came up with a path from the tank forward under our fwd bed to the bow. If / when the bubbler quits I may do a little experimenting to see if the vent & SPC are sufficient but replacing the 12V bubbler would be a very minor expense considering it's durability and effectiveness.
 
We have a bubbler in ours but found when on it pushed air out and with that air was smell
Maybe we need to run it for a few days for it to stabilise?
 
We have a bubbler in ours but found when on it pushed air out and with that air was smell
Maybe we need to run it for a few days for it to stabilise?

The air bubbler needs to run 24x7 pretty much. When we added the one on a previous boat it stunk horribly for about 2 hours and then we never had a smell again. You may be able to turn it off for short periods. We ran ours all the time but it was a minimal current draw.

Our current boat had the standard 5/8” vent with an inaccessible filter. I left the stock vent alone and added 2 1.5” vents, one out each side. So far that has been good enough.
 
Thanks Steve,

I've been looking for a Noflex substitute for the same reasons you mentioned. Looks like you found a winner.

Rob
 
...I am familiar with the head mistress and her recommendations, but my system just can’t freely vent enough air to keep oxygen levels up.


Maye not as it's currently configured, but I'd bet at least $1.00 that it can be modified to do it. Send me a PM if you'd like to pursue it.


--Peggie
 
We have a bubbler in ours but found when on it pushed air out and with that air was smell
Maybe we need to run it for a few days for it to stabilise?
I run our 24/7 and would recommend pumping out, fresh water flush and start over w bubbler. If the tank has sediment or buildup on the walls it may take a little time to clean up. I find with bubbler and NoFlex the pump out is much clearer that previous w/o.
 
I run our 24/7 and would recommend pumping out, fresh water flush and start over w bubbler. If the tank has sediment or buildup on the walls it may take a little time to clean up. I find with bubbler and NoFlex the pump out is much clearer that previous w/o.


I agree with Don. I used his ideas and built my own tank aerator. It completely solved all odor issues. When I’m using the boat regularly (unfortunately not the last couple years) I leave it running 24/7.

NoFlex digester is great stuff and I think it works really well. You can also just use Sodium Percarbonate which works “almost” as well as Noflex in my experience.

However, as others have mentioned, if you can get enough O2 in the tank you like won’t need anything. I still use NoFlex in low doses in my tank just to ensure that my bubbler system stays sludge free.

Here is the thread I started that described how I made it.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1017315&postcount=1
 
I agree with Don. I used his ideas and built my own tank aerator. It completely solved all odor issues. When I’m using the boat regularly (unfortunately not the last couple years) I leave it running 24/7.

NoFlex digester is great stuff and I think it works really well. You can also just use Sodium Percarbonate which works “almost” as well as Noflex in my experience.

However, as others have mentioned, if you can get enough O2 in the tank you like won’t need anything. I still use NoFlex in low doses in my tank just to ensure that my bubbler system stays sludge free.

Here is the thread I started that described how I made it.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1017315&postcount=1

Thanks Dave I was just searching for your post.
 
The dosage for Digester calls for a tablespoon per person every two days. I found that didn’t cut it in my system so I had to double that in the summer. That meant one tablespoon each day per person.

Is it hard to gulp down?
 
Fresh water flush

I changed out the head to a fresh water flush and I no longer need chems in the holding tank. I use to use thetford, before, it worked pretty well. It has formaldehyde in it. Guessing that made the difference, not so friendly on the environment, however. Good luck.
 
I have struggled for years finding a holding tank treatment that would work through the hot summer months. After trying various liquid treatments over the years, I experimented with a popular powder called Noflex Digester. It seemed to work but it was expensive to use. I gave up on it because of the expense of using it in the proportions needed to keep the odors down. This year I decided to give it another go and bought three 1 LB cans of it, which cost me over 60 bucks. You have to use a lot of it to initially get the tank fairly clean, and for it to work properly. The dosage suggested is the absolute minimum, and you will likely need to use more, especially as tank temperature get warmer in the summertime. My final conclusion was that it did work better than all the other liquid treatments I had tried, but I still had to exceed the suggested dosage for it to work well. I am familiar with the head mistress and her recommendations, but my system just can’t freely vent enough air to keep oxygen levels up. I suspect the digester compound works so well because it produces oxygen in the tank to keep a good balance of aerobic bacteria working.
My issue with this product was paying so much for what was basically highly oxygenated laundry detergent. I tried to contact the company to see if I could by it in larger more cost efficient containers, but I never received a reply. Finally I decided figure out for myself, what is in it, and if I could come up with a compound that would work as well, but wouldn’t be putting money down the toilet. The following is the result of that investigation.
The SDS for the Digester product states that it includes approximately:
Sodium Carbonate Peroxyhydrate 40 to 60%
Sodium Carbonate 10-20%
C8-10 alcohols Ethoxylated Propoxylated 1-5%
These are the basic ingredients of laundry detergent but in much different proportions. Also to add more confusion into the formula, there are many different names for the same compounds. So let’s break this down.
1. Sodium Carbonate Peroxyhydrate is a technically more descriptive name for the same compound commonly known as sodium carbonate peroxide or sodium percarbonate. This is an environmentally friendly product used for a variety of things. It can be used to control certain vegetation in lakes while not impacting desirable plants and fish. Brewers use it to clean vessels used in beer making. When combined with water, it will break down into soda ash, and hydrogen peroxide which will further break down into water and oxygen. Oxygen is what you need to keep your “good aerobic bacteria” working in your tank. Pure Sodium Percarbonate is not cheap, but you can by it in 10 lb. buckets on Amazon for about $5.00/lb.
2. Next ingredient is sodium carbonate. It is also commonly known as disodium carbonate, washing soda, or soda ash. This is the base ingredient for powdered laundry detergent. It is also used in glass manufacturing and as a water softener. Arm & Hammer powdered laundry detergent is about 81% disodium carbonate (sodium carbonate). It also has about 7.3% Alcohols, C12-15, ethoxylated.
3. The third ingredient is ethoxylated alcohol. Ethoxylated alcohols are used as wetting agents and help to breakup greasy or fatty compounds. They help detergents work better.
These 2nd two ingredients are the basis of Arm & Hammer powdered laundry detergent.
Reading various discussion groups on this same subject, I seen the question, “what about Oxiclean?” Oxiclean does work using oxygen in the form of sodium percarbonate, but the concentration doesn’t come close to Digester. The SDS for Oxiclean states it is between 10-30% sodium Percarbonate, and 72% sodium carbonate. So this is a really poor source of sodium Percarbonate for the holding tank. Powdered laundry detergent with Oxiclean has even lees percarbonate.
So I began my investigation for a good source of sodium carbonate, that might already have the other agents like the ethoxylated alcohol and other surfactants, and agents that would assist in doing what Digester does. Living in USA, I was familiar with the industry leader, Arm & Hammer Company, in manufacture of sodium carbonate products so I began there. Arm & Hammer Powdered Laundry Detergent is what I settled on. The SDS states the following contents:
Disodium carbonate, 80.2 - 82.9%
Alcohols, C12-15, ethoxylated 6.8 - 7.8%
I purchased a 10 LB bucket of sodium per carbonate on Amazon and a box of Arm & Hammer powdered Laundry Detergent at Walmart. I blended my first trial batch at a ratio of 3 parts percarbonate to 2 parts detergent. That gave me a blend of approximately 60% sodium percarbonate, 32% sodium carbonate, 3% alcohol, and 4% other (which I believe to be mostly baking soda in the detergent.) I refilled my empty 1 lb Digester cans. I liked that size can for storage in the head. That blend worked pretty well, but the scent of the detergent was noticeable. It smelled like we were doing laundry after we flushed the toilet. Head odors remained under control and Pumpout were cleaner that previous. My next test batch was blended at a ratio of 2 parts percarbonate to 1 part detergent. That resulted in a blend that was approximately 66% sodium percarbonate, 27% sodium carbonate, 2.5% alcohol, and 3% other. I liked that even better, and that is what I settled on. The detergent scent wasn’t noticeable anymore, and the extra oxygen in the tank can only help. This isn’t an exact copy of the Digester formula, but seems to work as well or even better, at less than 25% of the cost. At $5.00/LB for the sodium percarbonate, and $3.00/LB for the detergent, the homemade blend works out to $4.33/LB.
With the cost being so much lower, I’m not tempted to under treat the tank and get into a stinky situation. Also it helps to spread the dosage over time to keep the tank oxygenated. I do half the daily dosage in the morning and half in the evening. That really works great.
The dosage for Digester calls for a tablespoon per person every two days. I found that didn’t cut it in my system so I had to double that in the summer. That meant one tablespoon each day per person. We are two on my boat so I use two tablespoons a day. One in the morning, and one in the evening. So far I am very happy with the results.
Just wanted to share what works for me!


Well i'm surprized you could find me if you had bought the Noflex I think the email dave@gemini-ltd.com is on the bottle and the SDS Gemini Packaging number should have been there. There is something wrong if the Noflex didn't work at lower levels We do offer above and beyond customer support. Prices are cheaper if you don't buy the connivance of Amazon Try Marine Sanitation, Fishery Supply. Defender way cheaper . The chemicals you are ordering are hazardous and legally you should not be able to ship thru the mail and could you please not use the Noflex bottle we pay money to have $10 mil insurance on the product.
 
Holding Tank

We switched the black water system to fresh water in our Grand Banks (36 gallons) and my wife has been pretty happy. Every so often I put a half bottle of THETFORM Campa-Fresh in to keep her really happy. I get it cheap at Walmart. It used to be called Campa-Chem. I guess they wanted to take “chem(ical)” out of the name.
 
While I would prefer the good airflow or the aerator option, access and my generally smaller scale boat militate against the idea; plus we do not as a rule these last few years tend to have much need of the waste tank. I do keep a jug of Noflex aboard and dump a tablespoon worth in whenever I think about it. Before Noflex use here, we spent six days aboard, and the odor when flushing our freshwater Vacuflush was quite objectionable. So Noflex it is.
 
I can attest that aeration is the way to go! Several years on Mainship 400 of stinky flushes, even with various additives, forced me to add aeration. I initially added bubbles from a Marine Metal air pump through the macerator fitting. Didn't put in a bar with little holes or anything, and the bubbling was loud enough to hear in the quiet of night, but it had a revolutionary affect on stink! I reassembled the macerator at the end of that season, so needed to figure out a different way to get air in there. From my aquarium experience I know that the oxygen that fish breath happens at the surface, bubbles are half aesthetic, and half moving the water around (thus helping with O2 exchange). Going with this, I decided to drill a hole in the top end of the tank, created a simple 1/2" PVC to aquarium tubing nipple contraption, and a Uniseal. No bubbling, but has been absolutely wonderful nonetheless for several seasons now. We can literally go a couple weeks with known #2 in there, no chemicals, no stink on flushes. It does stink in the spring for a bit, day or two, I'm assuming as good bacteria is colonizing. Also of note, the Marine Metal pump I installed is 110v, plugged into the unused washer/dryer plug. It is on 24/7 while at dock, but not while underway or sleeping on the hook. We can go for a couple days without any issues whatsoever. I'd rather a 12v pump, but the outlet was there and convenient and works. Hope this info helps!
 
I've never had a smell problem with the holding tank. It's a closed system, and the only vent is for when it's being emptied.
BUT, to circumvent any problems, I found this stuff
https://www.pacificnwboatertested.c...science-tank-treatment?variant=31912304771177
It's not expensive, and you only need a cap full every time you get a pumpout. One 16 oz bottle will last you a year or more.

You guys think way too much about this **** (pun intended!). Your spending valuable time, and consequently money (if you think your time isn't worth anything, you're wrong) when $25 bucks a year will take care of all your problems. If your system is put together correctly, and you do a minimum amount of maintenance, it works and it doesn't stink.
 
Steve - I read this whole write-up and thought to myself, "this sounds like something Steve Cyr would do"
Then I scrolled back to the top and saw you were the author!
 
Hi,

We found our holding tank was requiring more and more frequent emptying. On inspection, we found a reasonably hard waste had been building up in the tank. How to get rid of it?

And then I found Holding Tank Cleanser from LeeSan in the UK. Being sceptical, I talked with their product manager who advised that the enzymes in the product loved old 'poo' and would happily graze on it for their breakfast, lunch and dinner, excreting it as liquid. Really?

I bought some, followed the instructions to the letter, and after a couple of doses, it had worked.

After that, we simply added a sachet every couple of weeks to keep the tank clean. I can vouch that it works. And no, I'm not associated with the company - just a really pleased customer.

https://www.leesan.com/shop/leesan-holding-tank-cleanser.aspx
 
”I've never had a smell problem with the holding tank.”

If I understand this correctly, you never had a smelly holding tank problem. But you now add this product and it still doesn’t smell?
 
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I also switched to NoFlex and now am using pure generic sodium percarbonate. I will probably try Steve's recipe. It's interesting that almost everyone thinks noflex is great but also everyone thinks it way overpriced. I wonder how their business model would change if they lowered the price but sold much more quantity. I know I would buy it exclusively but the price would need to be about 50% less. Instead, many boaters never even try it or find a generic alternative.
 
I also switched to NoFlex and now am using pure generic sodium percarbonate. I will probably try Steve's recipe. It's interesting that almost everyone thinks noflex is great but also everyone thinks it way overpriced. I wonder how their business model would change if they lowered the price but sold much more quantity. I know I would buy it exclusively but the price would need to be about 50% less. Instead, many boaters never even try it or find a generic alternative.


Ask the gentleman who posted reply #15... Is he not the manufacturer?
 
I've never had a smell problem with the holding tank. It's a closed system, and the only vent is for when it's being emptied.
BUT, to circumvent any problems, I found this stuff
https://www.pacificnwboatertested.c...science-tank-treatment?variant=31912304771177
It's not expensive, and you only need a cap full every time you get a pumpout. One 16 oz bottle will last you a year or more.

You guys think way too much about this **** (pun intended!). Your spending valuable time, and consequently money (if you think your time isn't worth anything, you're wrong) when $25 bucks a year will take care of all your problems. If your system is put together correctly, and you do a minimum amount of maintenance, it works and it doesn't stink.

Thank you for the shout out, James Tiberius Kirk. Unlike anchors, there are multiple ways to eliminate sludge and odor from our holding tanks. We found Forget About It (now rebranded as Just Science) seven years ago and as liveaboards have used it religiously ever since. It. Simply. Works.
 
I've never had a smell problem with the holding tank. It's a closed system, and the only vent is for when it's being emptied.
BUT, to circumvent any problems, I found this stuff
https://www.pacificnwboatertested.c...science-tank-treatment?variant=31912304771177
It's not expensive, and you only need a cap full every time you get a pumpout. One 16 oz bottle will last you a year or more.

You guys think way too much about this **** (pun intended!). Your spending valuable time, and consequently money (if you think your time isn't worth anything, you're wrong) when $25 bucks a year will take care of all your problems. If your system is put together correctly, and you do a minimum amount of maintenance, it works and it doesn't stink.

It comes from a agricultural supply manufacturer in the USA allot cheaper before they put their label on it-- it has its limits
 
Ask the gentleman who posted reply #15... Is he not the manufacturer?

Yes I'm the manufacturer the one that makes the least amount of the pie.

We also do private label soaps for Safeway USA and big chains elsewhere . I have volume on these and I give good pricing and there are no middle men and truck load freight , no customer support , Noflex and some specially products are a side line one of my biggest suppliers in USA is making a killing is Amazon and your paying for conveyance. Pay for what you get.
Noflex is a great product and we offer the extra service that goes with it .I could lower the price and bypass the product support network and sell it direct over our web page. But show me the volume . You will not use more so thats a stupid and what has destroyed the world THE CHINESE WAY .
 
I've always ordered Noflex from Marine Sanitation. If you order 4 bottles you get 5 bottles for under $16 per bottle and free shipping. It is amazing what some people will pay for product off of Amazon.
 
Your right Amazon is having problems . I think they just increased their price to $35 per bottle on Noflex .But still people will pay for the service .
Inflation is touching us all and not nice.
 
CaptainKirk, that’s what I use. Been using it for a couple of years now and it works great for us. The one we buy is called TankTechRx or something like that.
 
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