Single or Twin Screw!!

[Seevee]

If the wind is howling or the tide rushing and either or both are pushing you off the dock....trying to use a midship spring can be hard....so I don't do it.


I ease the bow up with a line made fast to the bow, shorter than the length of the boat but nearly so, drop the other end with a loop over a cleat about where I expect the stern to wind up.


Generally, the wind/current is holding you off, but the effect is slow if directly on the bow, you usually have overhang or flare to help so it is not a rush job.


Even if blown well away from the dock, with a single and no thruster, you can now head in the general direction of the dock pointing the bow slightly in the direction that you ultimately want it.


You use just enough power to keep tension and enough rudder turned away from thw dock to allow the spring to allow the boat to swing in parallel to the dock. When the stern bumps the dock, time for the stern line.


A bow line can be added when the safest means is determined for your vessel.


Works for twins if the boat doesn't want to twist fast enough or the wind/current is just too much to lay alongside.

Paul,

A diagram would be great, but do I understand this:

To get the loop end to a cleat, you would already be at some angle to the dock (trying to head into the wind as best you can. By the time you get back to the helm you could be not quite 90d to the dock, so you could be sticking out the length of the boat plus the length of the line.

And from that point you put the rudder away from the dock (if you're docking bow in, port side, you'd turn to starboard, and then just add enough power to slowly swing the boat to starboard up to the dock where you could tie up the stern line.

Am I missing anything?

Seems like it would work if you had no obstructions or boats to your starboard?

 

[Seevee]

This works for me at my marina in conditions up to about 25-30 knot of wind.

I dock singlehanded more often than not. I have a shared berth with the prevailing wind blowing off the finger toward the neighbouring boat. My boat doesn't have side access doors, only a cockpit door. It takes me about 5 steps to get to the cockpit.

I begin by having fenders in place on both sides of the boat. I have a spring line looped between my boat's midship cleat and the cleat at the s/b side of the cockpit. I ensure it is laying over (not under) the fenders and any other lines. My spring line almost always hangs in this place.

I assess the wind and current and approach the dock very slowly in light winds, a bit faster in stronger winds. I turn hard to port with the intention of the bow just missing the corner of the finger. I adjust speed to just under 1 knot, then put the boat in neutral and straighten the rudder as the boat glides into the berth.

I then walk quickly to the cockpit, pick up the spring line loop and place it over the outermost cleat on the dock finger as I pass by in the cockpit. I immediately go back to the helm and put the boat back in fwd gear to gently take up tension while turning the helm wheel hard to PORT. The boat sucks up hard to the dock finger on STARBOARD side. I leave the boat idle in gear while I step off casually and tie off my dock lines. If wind is strong, it may require higher revs to hold the boat to the dock.

A couple notes:

The spring line length is pre-set for a specific dock. It must stop the boat before it hits the main dock. One size does not fit all docks. Size it up before you leave the dock.

Before leaving the helm to handle you line, assess whether you will be close enough to loop the dock cleat. If there are any doubts at all, hit reverse and abort the docking before the wind/current pushes you into another boat. I use a stiff line with a large loop to make it easy to place it over the cleat then pull it forward to ensure it will hook up. Don't throw and hope. Be 100% sure.

Ensure your midship cleat is in a position that works well for this type of docking. Test this before leaving the dock. See how well it holds the boat when the wind or current is pushing it off the dock. See how well it hold at idle or at 1200 rpm. With some boats, a position just forward of mid works best.

Once you get the hang of it, you'll want to dock single handed every time.

Auscan,

When you say I have a spring line looped between my boat's midship cleat and the cleat at the s/b side of the cockpit., where is that s/b cleat located? It's confusing.

Sounds like you have a big loop on the side of the boat, and simply drop it over a cleat or pole when along side the dock.

The BIG issue is getting along side the dock and don't understand how this would work with any wind.

My biggest issue is getting a line secured to the dock. Once there, no matter which line, life is much easier, however, for the most part, I prefer a midship line for a spring.

 

[psneeld]

Paul,

A diagram would be great, but do I understand this:

To get the loop end to a cleat, you would already be at some angle to the dock (trying to head into the wind as best you can. By the time you get back to the helm you could be not quite 90d to the dock, so you could be sticking out the length of the boat plus the length of the line.

And from that point you put the rudder away from the dock (if you're docking bow in, port side, you'd turn to starboard, and then just add enough power to slowly swing the boat to starboard up to the dock where you could tie up the stern line.

Am I missing anything?

Seems like it would work if you had no obstructions or boats to your starboard?

Not easy to diagram.

This is for face docks not slips...a whole nuther ballgame...that depending...just "any" line could be useless or even dangerous sometimes.

First would be perpendicular to the dock right at the cleat you want to lasso.

As you get blown or carried off by current, just start slowly powering towards the dock and turning up current or wind if any or just pick. As the spring tightens.it will pull your bow in and ultimately with rudder away from the dock, kick the stern in.

I have done this in greater than 50 knots in a gasser single with no thrusters and hundreds of times stern towing a boat to a face dock. It worked for me like a charm whed n a midship spring would have been a waste of time and effort.

 

[Seevee]

Not easy to diagram.

This is for face docks not slips...a whole nuther ballgame...that depending...just "any" line could be useless or even dangerous sometimes.

First would be perpendicular to the dock right at the cleat you want to lasso.

As you get blown or carried off by current, just start slowly powering towards the dock and turning up current or wind if any or just pick. As the spring tightens.it will pull your bow in and ultimately with rudder away from the dock, kick the stern in.

I have done this in greater than 50 knots in a gasser single with no thrusters and hundreds of times stern towing a boat to a face dock. It worked for me like a charm whed n a midship spring would have been a waste of time and effort.

Yea, face docks makes sense. Thx.

 

[Spinner]

I have been single handed docking for a while, but the times I have wanted to use that technique there hasn’t been a piling or cleat handy! Bull rails, anyone?
In order to do this, I have to get off the boat, which means I am already at the dock and so...I guess it’s just something that won’t be available.

 

[psneeld]

I have done it to bull rails, depending on underneath clearance and loop thickness.
Either way, just tap the line underneath with with a boathook.

Of course if the drift is horrendous. Time may not allow unless able to keep the bow against the dock with power or as some recommend a hook or grapnel anchor

 

[ranger58sb]

a midship spring would have been a waste of time and effort.

I'm not quite able to picture what you've described.

Your technique is a long loose line leading from bow cleat to midship cleat? Fling the long bight overboard at a cleat or something? Then use it to pull the boat up tight to the face dock as you power into current or wind?

Or...?

And can you hum a few bars about what you mean by a "midship spring?"

A line attached to a midship cleat leading forward? Leading aft? Or...?

FWIW, we've always used "forward spring" or "aft spring" without necessarily including which cleat we're using for one of those. It happens we have two sets of midship cleats and our particular boat terefore has two different natural pivot points for springs, depending on whether we're moving ahead or astern. That in turn means we have to decide which "midship" on the fly...

-Chris

 

[psneeld]

After bow spring. Tied to bow cleat, 35 feet long for 40 foot boat, loop at end to drop on dock cleat near where your stern will wind up.

 

[Fish53]

In my 1989 copy of Chapman's Piloting and Seamanship in the chapter Power Cruiser Seamanship is a series of diagrams that illustrate some basic uses of springlines. My 1969 printing is more precise but it's up in the attic. It's great to read the various methods, observations and ideas here, it's obvious some meaningful thought has been put into this subject.

 

[Fish53]

After bow spring. Tied to bow cleat, 35 feet long for 40 foot boat, loop at end to drop on dock cleat near where your stern will wind up.

If there were a cleat 1/3 of the way aft of the bow she might come in to the dock easier. A lot of boats when sprung in by the bow have a hard time getting the stern very close as at some point the spring wants to pull the bow in because the center of effort is on the longitudinal centerline of the vessel. That said it works fine if you're gentile but I've seen guys try this and use too much power and the end up with the rudder fighting the springline, and neither wins. A lot depends on where you cleats and chocks are. With a transom stern boat backing in and putting on an aft leading quarter spring will lay the boat up nicely when just idled ahead for a second or so, and you don't need a long lead. A forward leading quarter spring will do the opposite and bring the bow out when leaving the dock, this is easy to do alone especially if you have a cockpit.

 

[sunchaser]

After bow spring. Tied to bow cleat, 35 feet long for 40 foot boat, loop at end to drop on dock cleat near where your stern will wind up.

Yes, this works great provided you have a readily accessible tie point on the dock.

 

[psneeld]

Yes, this works great provided you have a readily accessible tie point on the dock.

If there's nothing to tie to...how are you gonna stay anyway? There are multiple methods for bull rails.

If there's absolutely nothing I doubt many boats or skippers are getting and staying alongside without dock hands and a stiff wind or setting current keeping them off.

Heck most have trouble with little or nothing pushing them off and no dock hands or tie off points.

 

[AusCan]

Auscan,

When you say I have a spring line looped between my boat's midship cleat and the cleat at the s/b side of the cockpit., where is that s/b cleat located? It's confusing.

Sounds like you have a big loop on the side of the boat, and simply drop it over a cleat or pole when along side the dock.

The BIG issue is getting along side the dock and don't understand how this would work with any wind.

My biggest issue is getting a line secured to the dock. Once there, no matter which line, life is much easier, however, for the most part, I prefer a midship line for a spring.

My usual spring line for this is just a dock line with a loop tied off at either end. The length is about 2 feet longer than the length between the boats midship cleat and the cleat on the the side of the cockpit. For me this length is perfect to stop the boat about a foot before the bow contacts the main dock. Your mileage may vary.

I don't like using a loose line for the home berth (slip) dock. Getting the length wrong can end up in tears.

Yes - It is all dependant on getting the spring line over the dock cleat after doing a 90 degree turn into the slip. This just takes practice, and reading the wind and current. A large rudder and full length keel also help as well. I normally try to do a steady 90 degree turn into the dock, and only straighten the rudder after the stern has come close to the dock. This way I am not fighting inertia and everything is predictable.

It doesn't always work. On my last singlehanded attempt a couple nights ago, the first two attempt were aborted. I didn't read the wind properly in the dark. First too close to the finger and possibility of hitting it with the bow, then too far away, and possibility of not being able to reach the dock cleat. I just immediately reverse out when there is any doubt, before I am blown into my neighbour in the shared slip.

 

[Fish53]

If theres nothing to tie to...how are you gonna stay anyway? There are multiple methods for bull rails.

If theres absolutely nothing I doubt many boats or skippers are getting and staying alongside without dock hands and a stiff wind or setting current keeping them off.

Heck most havd trouble with little or nothing pushing them off and no dock hands or tie off points.

I agree, it's a pretty poor dock where there's nothing at all to make a line to. This does however illustrate the utility of having a variety of methods to accomplish the same maneuver. Up here in Maine where we have a lot of tide most places have pilings and its nice to know how to tie a snap bowline or how to double a line when the top of the piling is inaccessible, gives you plenty of places for a line.

 

[ranger58sb]

After bow spring. Tied to bow cleat, 35 feet long for 40 foot boat, loop at end to drop on dock cleat near where your stern will wind up.

Got it, thanks.

We tend to use an aft spring from our aft midships cleat the same way... mostly cause wifey can be much closer to a dock cleat from our cockpit than is possible from the bow... more chance of snagging something useful...

If there were a cleat 1/3 of the way aft of the bow she might come in to the dock easier. A lot of boats when sprung in by the bow have a hard time getting the stern very close as at some point the spring wants to pull the bow in because the center of effort is on the longitudinal centerline of the vessel.

That happens to speak to my point earlier about two pivot points. If we use an after spring from our forward midships cleat, about 1/3 aft of the bow, it still causes the bow to pivot inward toward the dock... and it's not as easy to bring the stern around and it is if we just use the after midships cleat (about 2/3 aft from the bow). I expect that's just a matter of different boats having different pivot points with different hardware layouts.

-Chris

 

[Fish53]

Got it, thanks.

We tend to use an aft spring from our aft midships cleat the same way... mostly cause wifey can be much closer to a dock cleat from our cockpit than is possible from the bow... more chance of snagging something useful...




That happens to speak to my point earlier about two pivot points. If we use an after spring from our forward midships cleat, about 1/3 aft of the bow, it still causes the bow to pivot inward toward the dock... and it's not as easy to bring the stern around and it is if we just use the after midships cleat (about 2/3 aft from the bow). I expect that's just a matter of different boats having different pivot points with different hardware layouts.

-Chris

Most boats will pivot approximately 1/3 of the way aft of the bow with the rudder when underway but you're right about cleat locations at the dock. I mentioned earlier about thinking of a fulcrum and the effects of leverage, the cleating point as fulcrum and it's distance from either end of the boat as leverage. A cleat 1/3 of the way aft of the bow gives the propeller and rudder plenty of leverage while allowing the bow to move out from the dock as the stern comes in. If I were a computer savvy person I could make a simple animated video which would be better than my confusing description.

 

[psneeld]

The description makes sense to me...

My reason for a bow cleat is some boats don't have another cleat till amidships an that may or may not get you a good long spring line....but a boat with a wide beam you are right in that a bow cleat may make it hard to get the stern over without some manuevering.

 

[Fish53]

The description makes sense to me...

My reason for a bow cleat is some boats don't have another cleat till amidships an that may or may not get you a good long spring line....but a boat with a wide beam you are right in that a bow cleat may make it hard to get the stern over without some manuevering.

Right, and you have less chance of losing control of the bow. You can't do better than make use of what you have, few boats are ideal in all respects.

 

[Spinner]

Well, by the time I have a line on a cleat, the spring line is kind of moot. I was thinking of it in the instance where there is a stiff wind blowing off the dock when I am docking. The point would to assist getting the boat into the dock without thrusters. I guess I will just revert to thrusters!

 

[psneeld]

My method is exactly what you would use, especially when thrusters won't do it.

 

[Fish53]

Well, by the time I have a line on a cleat, the spring line is kind of moot. I was thinking of it in the instance where there is a stiff wind blowing off the dock when I am docking. The point would to assist getting the boat into the dock without thrusters. I guess I will just revert to thrusters!

I think you're misunderstanding the function of springlines, you can gain much more effort to move the boat to the dock by using a spring and your main engine than your thruster can generate. I would respectfully suggest you reference the chapter of Chapman's I sited earlier for a basic idea. Even better would be to find some old decrepit guy like me who would be glad to instruct for the price of a beer and a chance to tell boring sea stories.

 

[AusCan]

Spinner,
It is the force pulling on the spring line when in fwd gear that pulls the bow into the dock. The prop is pushing the boat ahead and the bow is forced closer to the dock the more it is forced ahead. With the helm wheel turned away from the dock, the prop keeps the stern tight to the dock. This has more force than thrusters can produce.

 

[BruceK]

This is a highly technical subject, I`m going to give the excellent posts more well deserved time.
One thing placing a spring line points up is the utility of a helm door, and walkaround decks. Imagine having to leave the helm via the cockpit door and return,or descend a FB ladder and return after placing a line

 

[Seevee]

If there were a cleat 1/3 of the way aft of the bow she might come in to the dock easier. A lot of boats when sprung in by the bow have a hard time getting the stern very close as at some point the spring wants to pull the bow in because the center of effort is on the longitudinal centerline of the vessel. That said it works fine if you're gentile but I've seen guys try this and use too much power and the end up with the rudder fighting the springline, and neither wins. A lot depends on where you cleats and chocks are. With a transom stern boat backing in and putting on an aft leading quarter spring will lay the boat up nicely when just idled ahead for a second or so, and you don't need a long lead. A forward leading quarter spring will do the opposite and bring the bow out when leaving the dock, this is easy to do alone especially if you have a cockpit.

Good posts you guys, always looking for a better way.
My "go to" ops are mid cleat bow in (side tie or slip). Without wind a no brainer. With wind blowing off the dock, I want it similar to Pauls, where I'll throw the line on the first pole or cleat going in as that's the easiest to get... then just idle forward until the boat come back into the dock to get the other lines on.

Backing in to a slip, against a wind, goal is to get the stern cleat on the first of second cleat or pole and go forward to align the boat and then back in.

 

[ranger58sb]

Most boats will pivot approximately 1/3 of the way aft of the bow with the rudder when underway but you're right about cleat locations at the dock. I mentioned earlier about thinking of a fulcrum and the effects of leverage, the cleating point as fulcrum and it's distance from either end of the boat as leverage. A cleat 1/3 of the way aft of the bow gives the propeller and rudder plenty of leverage while allowing the bow to move out from the dock as the stern comes in. If I were a computer savvy person I could make a simple animated video which would be better than my confusing description.

Not to worry, I understand your description... and the physics are easy enough...

Yes, all that can work well enough, it's just usually better for us to do the same thing differently. Our forward midships cleat probably isn't a full 1/3 aft of the bow, also, another reason we often resort to using the after midships cleat instead for that particular kind of warping...

And then of course usually the whole operation tends to need "customizing" depending on how much room's available on the dock, how near the boats (if any) are ahead of or aft of the designated tie-up. Reminds me, one time we docked with our pulpit over the cockpit of the boat ahead and our dinghy under the pulpit of the boat behind. We were assigned about a 50' slot and we run to 48-49' including the dinghy overhang. The Viking guy in front and the Hinckley guy behind we both very watchful during all that. That was using a forward midships spring, though....

-Chris

 

[Fish53]

Good posts you guys, always looking for a better way.
My "go to" ops are mid cleat bow in (side tie or slip). Without wind a no brainer. With wind blowing off the dock, I want it similar to Pauls, where I'll throw the line on the first pole or cleat going in as that's the easiest to get... then just idle forward until the boat come back into the dock to get the other lines on.

Backing in to a slip, against a wind, goal is to get the stern cleat on the first of second cleat or pole and go forward to align the boat and then back in.

A forward quarter spring is nice for backing around a corner into a slip and such adjusted for the sterns swing room and with a bow line on you keep control of the bow as well.

 

[ranger58sb]

Well, by the time I have a line on a cleat, the spring line is kind of moot. I was thinking of it in the instance where there is a stiff wind blowing off the dock when I am docking. The point would to assist getting the boat into the dock without thrusters. I guess I will just revert to thrusters!

Wind and/or current forcing you off the dock is exactly a situation where a spring line can be useful. (Another is when wind/or current is forcing you onto the dock.)

So if you've got a line on, what would you do next? Physically heave yourself up to the dock somehow? You tugging a heavy boat against that wind or current? Much easier to use the engine(s) against that line, let your propulsion horsepower do the heavy labor.

A spring line isn't just a line that happens to be tied to a midships cleat. It's a line made fast to any cleat (sometimes temporarily) that you (your engine) can use to make the boat go where you want it... Last I remember, Chapman's has some useful description/diagrams...

-Chris

 

[Art]

/Spring/
Verb

1. move or jump suddenly or rapidly upward or forward or sideways.
"I sprang out of bed". “Car was sprung rigidly to vault over potholes”.

2. originate or arise from.
“Water springs from cracks in rock”. “Wild animals sprang out of nowhere”.

synonyms: sudden, leap, jump, bound, vault, hop, lever, force, support, increase

Spring is an active word. Such as in "Spring" the climate forces and supports increased plant growth due to warmer weather.

Very importantly to boating: A "Spring" Line [coming tied from a boat portion and affixed to a rigid dock portion] enables leverage support to increase wherein boat power can be used to suddenly force the boat in direction and position desired.

Spring Line = docking leverage/support... at its finest.

 

[Capt Nemo]

I prefer a single with a bow thruster for many of the above reasons. What I will add is that how a single engine boat is setup makes a huge difference in being easy to handle. Slow speed maneuvering with a single and small rudder can be very challenging. The rudder needs to be substantially larger and should swing 40 degrees to either side for outstanding slow speed and docking handling. The larger rudder and degree of turn allows you to push the stern to the side with very little forward motion. This makes stern in docking with the "back and fill" technique, quite easy. Also, being able to push the stern to the side with little forward motion and pushing the bow with a thruster, allows you to push the boat sideways to the dock for essentially parallel parking. There are other ways to accomplish this with spring lines, but a well setup single screw boat can be very easy to dock.

Ted

Hi Ted
Would you be able to show a drawing or a photo of what an ideal proportion of rudder size and style for a single engine turning a 24- 26" 3 or 4 blade wheel? I am currently building a 52' steel trawler with a 6 cylinder single diesel .
My hull is about 95% complete. Thankyou.

 

[psneeld]

If building new, especially out of metal, I would install an articulated rudder.