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DL, I've always felt that a day onboard equals 2 on shore... :cool:

I can assure you that most sailors prefer to raise sails while luffing (pointing into the wind) to minimize the effort needed to overcome the friction of the hanks or cars and track. Setting, which to me means trimming, happens as you fall off onto a chosen course.

My credit union cordially counted out $9500 for a recent used camper purchase. I would not have been pleased if they'd had the slightest hesitation. It's business. The sellers had requested cash as many private sellers will. All parties were happy.

Your mast is rather short for using with a steadying sail. Don't expect much thrust. A local sailmaker or marine 'recycling' (used goods) store might have used sails that can be recut to fit that geometry. Used sailboat hardware like sail track, cars and sheaves can be found to keep your...

Curious about these conflicting specs: (4) fuel tanks of mild steel in very good condition totaling 950 gallons. Then at the bottom of your sale page: 950 Gal (GRP) FUEL.

Thank you Rich, I'm still fairly spry but I once told my wife to play this song if she ever throws a wake for me! I've never heard a Tom Waits song I didn't enjoy and have seen him live a few times.

Just because the tube is stainless doesn't prevent you welding a cap on it for a slide hammer attachment. TIG weld on a flat stainless plate with a threaded hole. As you already noted, the good news is that you got it to move a few inches.

Very happy that your engine stayed dry but merely looking into the intake side of the turbo is no proof (for next time). There is no way to see into the exhaust side from the intake side.

Sounds about right for a trawler.

I don't know your knowledge and capabilities but the basic idea is to add the DC hydraulic pump in parallel with the existing engine driven hydraulic pump. The DC pump draws fluid from the reservoir either from the same port as the existing pump via a tee fitting or one that is available and...

My only thought is that, yes, while that windlass can be manually operated in a pinch, and you could even grab and haul the chain by hand, a system providing the full lifting power at a reduced speed on battery power alone is affordable. An off-the-shelf DC solution to this could probably be...

I had a 24 VDC hydraulic power unit on my last boat to raise the centerboard. If you can determine the maximum operating pressure your windlass needs, almost any electric powered hydraulic pump of equivalent minimum output pressure will drive it. The main variable will be the speed it does...

Thank you for that summation, H.

If you are able to rotate the motor shaft manually that will test the gearbox. With a worm gear style pinion the drum will be prevented from rotating independent of the motor shaft.

I appreciate the subtle correction that probably went unnoticed by most readers. ;) I must have at least 4 different anti-seize compounds - the non-copper-based ones would be my first choice, too.

I will add that while almost any substance used during re-assembly is better than using nothing between the SS screw and AL, anti-sieze compound is best.

Cetol is a lower maintenance varnish-like coating which is worth a try. I used it for many years on the caprail. It can be wiped on with a rag. Not as beautiful as properly done varnish but looks good enough for non-purists.

Due to the less than clear translation from Chinese evident on those labels, I wouldn't automatically assume the heater will draw more than 15 amps. Once you connect it you can verify its actual draw and keep or choose a new breaker. The pump cable with the arrow probably refers to the month...

Ah, that's how I remember those times when I was a single liveaboard... ;)

I don't understand what load would be discharging the 400ah battery while you are away. If I was going to be gone for a few weeks or months I would turn all the AC loads off. If you need AC power while you're away a simple solution would be to have the DC-DC charger on a 12V timer set to an...

It would probably be better to just bite the bullet and screw it down solidly. The exact location is not critical as long as you can see it and access it.

If you are undecided about the perfect location, you could use double-sided tape. I keep an assortment of pan head wood/self-threading screws that would do, too.

I wasn't aware of any specific boat being referred to. Please elaborate. :)

Hopefully Judy at JWY will see this and reply. She has sold them. To my limited knowledge, each Cape Horn was a semi-custom build and so had various engine and interior arrangements.

Thanks, that aligns with the boat I was thinking of.