The Art Of Anchoring

While there are many factors that come into play when anchoring, and many of these have been discussed in this thread (providing good info, especially to newbies who are not yet comfortable anchoring), I agree with Peter that it is generally considered "best practice" to set (ensure set) using power. This is especially true when giving advice to anyone who is not comfortable with or new to anchoring out.
Are there times when it is not necessary, or are there techniques (often situational) that can reduce the need to do this, sure, as has been described by various posters on this and other threads.
Even though I have anchored out overnight for well over 1,000 nights and feel that we are knowledgeable of and proficient at the process, we still "power set" our anchor. Having a consistent process that we always follow gives us comfort and confidence that we can enjoy our night at anchor (with the least amount of worry). It (the process) has served us well for many, many successful anchor sets. It is the way I would advise anyone starting out to follow to have the best chance of early success and confidence in the results. JMHO, and others may differ I am sure.

If the shank of the anchor does not stay on the bottom with wind and wave action then even a set anchor will come loose.
If the set anchor is plowing through the bottom once set, your gear is too light, your scope is too short, or both.

mvweebles said:

Angel Island in SF Bay is one of the best anchorages in the Bay. But the moorings fill-up so I was anchored around the corner in Hospital Cove (there are now moorings there too I believe). 25-years ago on my first Willard 30-footer which carried a decent sized CQR. Probably a decent 4-kt current came through overnight and I dragged but didn't know it until I got up in the morning (and yes, I had power-set the anchor). The only thing that kept me from floating out the Golden Gate (slight exaggeration) was my anchor fouled on not one but two abandoned anchor rodes, one of which was a very nice Fortress. What a mess to bring that aboard.

But I never trusted that CQR again. Sort of like a cheating lover - I got rid of it and replaced with a Bruce, the best anchor of the day.

PSN - that video looked like more than 6-kts. Surprised no kayakers were trying to white-water it.

Peter

Click to expand...

Most people can't estimate current well... my old boss and I used to have a good laugh when people would stop at the marina and talk about the 10 knot current.



Even if no other time I measured the current ....which I did on many occasions for various reasons, a guy got a grant for producing electricity from tidal hydroelectric power and chose this marina due to its tidal current...nobody ever recorded more than 3 knots, even with sophisticated gear. the guy wound up hiring my assistance tow boat for a month to drag the contraption around because he couldn't wait for the moon tide cycle.


.... I rarely meet someone that estimates tidal current correctly...I would bet river guys are some of the best.


My last comment on setting the anchor by backing down....I have never done anything in my life the same way if conditions and situations are different....whether boating, flying, driving, raising kids, investing.....ad infinitum..... why should anchoring be different?



It's not...when I am comfortable and experienced in something...I adapt to what works and is the least amount of effort or unnecessary complication. Sure...till you get there...follow routine...never suggested not to.


I am just saying not everyone has to and it is FAR from irresponsible to do it or explain it....just to tell everyone they should do it "my way"...

firehoser75 said:

Even though I have anchored out overnight for well over 1,000 nights and feel that we are knowledgeable of and proficient at the process, we still "power set" our anchor. Having a consistent process that we always follow gives us comfort and confidence that we can enjoy our night at anchor (with the least amount of worry). It (the process) has served us well for many, many successful anchor sets. It is the way I would advise anyone starting out to follow to have the best chance of early success and confidence in the results. JMHO, and others may differ I am sure.

Click to expand...

Leaving aside the immediate topic of anchoring, what I really like about this post is the call-out on having an established procedure that you follow. Pilots do this I suppose. Years ago I cruised on a friend's Irwin 52 Sailboat from Ft Lauderdale to Bimini. He had sailed with a girlfriend from San Diego over 2-years. We were late getting out of the New River due to a failed bridge opening, and it was near-dark by the time we arrived at the channel into Bimini. Simon felt terrible that we were so late getting in and wanted to continue into the marina - it was dark, but weather was good. This was before chart plotters and Navionics so really just charts.

Julia piped-up "Simon, we've gone 2-years and 5000 miles without making harbor entrances after dark. Why start now?" Simon was clearly wanting to head in - alternative was anchoring in the open roadstead outside the harbor entrance.

Julia was right. They lived by a rule and didn't vary. Chances are it would have been just fine. But it had been a very long day and change for human error was elevated. So we anchored out and went in the next morning.

It was a good lesson for me - one I've remembered ever since. Consistency. Power-setting is part of that for me.

Peter

psneeld said:

I am guessing it's between 6-8 knots of current....that's from multiple years and types of measuring current methods in that waterway. (personally leaning toward 6).



I have had hundreds of people on the East Coast talk about bad currents at different marinas up and down the East Coast tell me about 10 knot, 12 knot...etc...etc.... docking experiences.


Yeah.... its hard not to laugh in their face.....I just chalk it up to inexperience and grit my teeth.


Every place can have occasional currents to scare you...but its rare, not a daily occurance.

Click to expand...

There is no need to overstate current. Let people try swimming against a 2 knot current for any length of time and see if they still feel the need to only be impressed only with higher flows.

mvweebles said:

Angel Island in SF Bay is one of the best anchorages in the Bay. But the moorings fill-up so I was anchored around the corner in Hospital Cove (there are now moorings there too I believe). 25-years ago on my first Willard 30-footer which carried a decent sized CQR. Probably a decent 4-kt current came through overnight and I dragged but didn't know it until I got up in the morning (and yes, I had power-set the anchor). The only thing that kept me from floating out the Golden Gate (slight exaggeration) was my anchor fouled on not one but two abandoned anchor rodes, one of which was a very nice Fortress. What a mess to bring that aboard.



But I never trusted that CQR again. Sort of like a cheating lover - I got rid of it and replaced with a Bruce, the best anchor of the day.



PSN - that video looked like more than 6-kts. Surprised no kayakers were trying to white-water it.



Peter

Click to expand...

I tie a 10 mm wrench on to a good length of line, toss it over and then tie the other end to my big toe before going to bed. Then I can spend my project money on other things.

Would note I previously said nexgens don’t do well in loose mud. Practical Sailor says the same.
I said I’ll try with the Rocna using no strain but if it doesn’t work will flip to the Fortress. Practical Sailor says the Fortress does better in loose mud.
It’s a PIA to go from all chain to chain and rode. So try the Rocna first.

Agree it’s common to have the current run through the slips on the US east coast. Hinckley in Melville or Charleston City are examples. Up north it’s common to have significant tides which are enough to change your ratio. You learn fast to heed that.

Think behavior has changed with people using nexgen anchors but published advice hasn’t caught up. Think that’s at the route of some of the disagreement here. Find the newer anchors like to slowly work their way in. Often we’d be in one spot on packed sand in the Caribbean for a week or more. Ride by and peak at the anchor coming and going in the ding. Might take a week for it to totally disappear. Believe backing down doesn’t hasten the process much at all if at all. They’ll go down to the ends of the roll bar quickly so you have a good set. But then it takes forever to totally bury.

For the most part, most anchors don't well in loose mud unless very oversized (new or old gen). The Fortress / Danforth is an exception to that rule of thumb.

I found in loose mud ( worst I have seen is in Georgetown, SC anchorage)..... if I back down right away....I rarely set.....another case for not or waiting a long time before a backing set.

If you let it lay for hours, the gentle current and whatever wind there is will slowly work it down and you will have a set. Another way, another tool. Why I disagree with always anything, understanding the procedure is key

The next morning the set can be detected by backing down or just feeling the chain at breakout.

Still have never used my Fortress/Danforth in 8 years of snowbirding.

Hippocampus said:

Think behavior has changed with people using nexgen anchors but published advice hasn’t caught up.

Click to expand...

Well, here are instructions from a few of the newer model anchor manufacturers. They all describe a set, though are cautious about a power-set. Rocna is pretty upfront that they worry about personal injury.

I guess folks can make their own decision what a power-set means to them.



From the instructions for Manson Supreme
From Spade

Signal to the helmsperson to put the engine in very slow reverse, so the vessel just begins to make slight stern-way about the time the anchor touches the bottom. If it is windy, leave the engine in neutral and let the boat's windage and motion provide the backing propulsion.

With the boat still backing slowly and with about half of the scope out, hold the line firmly until you feel the slack is taken up and the anchor is tugging. Feed more line out, but keep tension on so the anchors for boats is being set straight. This is the correct way of how to anchor a boat​

.

Rocna:[http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Setting_and_retrieval]
[/URL]

Rocna will almost certainly set much more quickly and decisively than you will consider normal. Take care when reversing your boat under power and do not build up too much speed, as the anchor will grab quickly and the resulting shock can easily damage equipment or even injure personnel​

When I was working on sport fishing boats we would drop and pull the anchor two to five times per day, all week long, all Summer long. I was just the young kid on the bow, but every Captain I worked for set the anchor with some astern thrust. Again, not questioning what others do because it appears to work for them, but that’s how I was taught so I run with it.

Have less than a decades experience, so take the following at your own risk.

BC's north coast has mostly mud/muck to deal with. My wife backs us down while I pay out the rode (chain + nylon) and I keep a hand on the rode after it's tied off. My wife keeps in reverse until I tell her to stop.

You can feel the anchor set through the rode.

Only once did I feel the anchor skip along the bottom (in front of a waterfall so it was probably sand on a slope and not mud) so we anchored somewhere else.

I'm about 50/50 with backing down to set the anchor.
Rather than following any procedures to the letter, I prefer to assess the conditions and the risks, and implement suitable mitigation measures.

I prefer to let the wind due the work, but on a calm day I'll use reverse power. I sometimes do it just before dark when the wind has decided which way it will blow. To me it makes more sense than setting the anchor under conditions on arrival.

mvweebles said:

In the old days, cruisers would discuss their anchoring particulars with newcomers. Do those types of exchanges still take place? Seems like a courteous thing to do.

Peter

Click to expand...

I agree. And my boating friends and I definitely will hail or yell out at people when we enter an anchorage to find out how everyone is set near the area we have targeted. If I can't I will set then dinghy over to introduce myself and ask about my closest neighbors' sets. Removes some of potential for future tension if something does happen. That simple effort shows you care and you are trying to adapt to the anchorage as it sits. If someone comes in after me and doesn't extend the same courtesy I will go talk to them for the same reasons. They know my set and as the last in they get the lay of the land.

Especially critical during slack and/or times of little to no wind. It's really hard to determine where anchors are when everyone is sitting all wonky in calm conditions. As it has been said, first in, last out when someone has to move.

OK, enough overthinking this. Here is how I do it.
Pull up to the spot I want to drop anchor, point up current or upwind, check depth, pay out the anchor, chain (and rode) for a 3-5 to 1 scope and go for a drink while watching to ensure the anchor has set and boat remains put.

Bob M said:

"A better option it to create a single rode with multiple anchors in a single line anchor to anchor so wayward boats can slide by."

This is the first time I've seen this advice in print, which has been our go-to solution for high winds for decades.

It works!

Click to expand...

Interesting feedback that you've seen this work in practice. I haven't done it, we are rarely in more than 25 kt winds tbh, but have read about it and some of the cruising blogs/books I have read had a less than favorable take on tandem in line. Mostly because they stated it was difficult (impossible?) to get the pull distributed across the two anchors. Meaning that when you really need it then only one anchor is load bearing. Assuming there's a larger and a smaller anchor in the setup, if it's the larger of your anchors and you don't drag then it would posit that it would've taken the load regardless. If it's the smaller, and it breaks free then you are relying on the larger anyway. So many just say oversize and use your largest storm anchor from the get go and don't deal with the complexity of multiple anchors. <shrug>

I frequently read (in this topic also) that many boaters use 3-5 scope. I find this strange as I was taught many decades ago to use a 7-1 scope. I usually go with that for an overnight anchorage, occasionally I’ll use 10-1 if I’m expecting a blow of 25 knots or more. I will use 5-1 for a lunch in light winds (under 15 knots).

I’m still not ready to overnight with a 3/5 -1 scope. Am I wrong?

Bigsfish said:

I frequently read (in this topic also) that many boaters use 3-5 scope. I find this strange as I was taught many decades ago to use a 7-1 scope. I usually go with that for an overnight anchorage, occasionally I’ll use 10-1 if I’m expecting a blow of 25 knots or more. I will use 5-1 for a lunch in light winds (under 15 knots).

I’m still not ready to overnight with a 3/5 -1 scope. Am I wrong?

Click to expand...

No, you are not wrong, carry on, as you were. If you were anchoring near me we could talk about why you would go 7>1 when I am 3>1. But since that is not the case don't worry about it. every location needs its own special attention, experience. I once anchored 5>1 with a boat on either side and the wind picked up, anchor dragged, let out line, good for a while, wind got stronger, sent the other boats away to anchor on their own. Each anchorage and condition needs a separate decision, or you could always go with 7>1 or 10>1 and never have to worry about decisions.

It really depends on your entire ground tackle system, where you anchor (protection from wind and waves), bottom type, depth, currents, and expected weather.
I usually pick very protected anchorages with good sticky mud bottoms. I have a great anchor that I trust (from experience) and use almost always an all chain rode (only when really deep do I go into the rope rode). I usually set out 5-1 scope based on the depth at high tide taking into account the height of the anchor roller above the water. Usually we anchor in less than 40 foot depths, sometimes just less than 20 (at that depth the low tide depth would be about 8 feet). We have anchored in over 80 feet of water using only about 3 to 4-1 scope as having out over 250 feet of chain with a well set anchor, in a good mud bottom and light winds predicted seemed like the right set up for those conditions.
I would also add that it can depend on the characteristics of your boat. Windage, weight, how it "behaves" when laying to an anchor in the wind, etc. Some boats really "sail around" back and forth putting a larger strain on the anchor, so maybe more scope would be a good idea then. If my rode was mostly rope, or if I was expecting big winds, I would go with 7-1. All of this, is just what I do, and does not make it right for others, but it has worked well for me for well over 1000 nights at anchor.

Bigsfish said:

I frequently read (in this topic also) that many boaters use 3-5 scope. I find this strange as I was taught many decades ago to use a 7-1 scope. I usually go with that for an overnight anchorage, occasionally I’ll use 10-1 if I’m expecting a blow of 25 knots or more. I will use 5-1 for a lunch in light winds (under 15 knots).

I’m still not ready to overnight with a 3/5 -1 scope. Am I wrong?

Click to expand...

As a person who pushed-back pretty hard on this thread, I'll chime in with my lesson's learned based on research prompted by the folks to whom I pushed back.

Based on several tests on scope/set/re-set; and anchor manufacturer's recommendations (which I believe are tempered by lawyers):

1. The newer scoop-style anchors are significantly better than their predecessors such as the Delta and Bruce; which were significant improvements over the previous stalwart - the CQR/Plow.

2. These anchors are tested and hold well at 3.5:1 scope for normal bottoms. They also reset well - often within 1 anchor length.

3. Power-setting. Anchor manufacturers recommend nosing-up into the wind/current, dropping anchor, and gently reversing direction. Some state wind/current push; but light reverse is more frequently recommended. This is the single biggest change for me - I will reduce (but not eliminate) my power-set.

4. I found no evidence that an anchor will set itself without some reverse-pull on it. I continue to disagree with the posts that suggest zero-set is a good practice, but as I said above, I will use a more relaxed approach to setting an anchor ---- but will always (ALWAYS) set an anchor. If for some reason it won't set, I continue to want to know an anchor does not set when I anchor, not middle of the night.

5. When might an anchor fail to set? Seaweed or grass - it simply slides across the surface. Some anchors penetrate better than others. If you believe Panope (which I do), the Ultra is a close leader of the very excellent spoon-style anchors (I have a Rocna Vulcan). I will add a Fortress to my arsenal.

6. For soft mud (by the responses, I suppose parts of the Chesapeake), you cannot beat a fluke-style anchor such as a Fortress. They are easy to disassemble and a spare rope/chain rode is also easy to carry.

Personally, I will anchor with 5:1 scope in most non-storm situations. For me, that is a reduction from my previous practice of 7:1. I will reduce my power-set to more of a firm nudge based on this discussion, and for that, I thank the vociferous posts. That said, based on the numerous recommendations from respected sources (including the anchor manufacturers) and the lack of anything beyond anecdotal statements on threads like this, I will continue to strongly advocate people develop a habit and practice of setting their anchors, but at a reduced pull-level.

Thank you all - I did learn a lot on this thread

Peter

Just to clarify what I mean by "setting" my anchor, we back down very slowly (in and out of gear), and slowly take up slack in the rode using the same method. Once the rode is pulled tight, we use reverse at idle to ensure we are set and not continuing to move back. We do have 330 hp after all

Bigsfish said:

I frequently read (in this topic also) that many boaters use 3-5 scope. I find this strange as I was taught many decades ago to use a 7-1 scope. I usually go with that for an overnight anchorage, occasionally I’ll use 10-1 if I’m expecting a blow of 25 knots or more. I will use 5-1 for a lunch in light winds (under 15 knots).

I’m still not ready to overnight with a 3/5 -1 scope. Am I wrong?

Click to expand...

In general, the bigger the anchor, the less scope you can get away with (as you have more excess holding power to sacrifice). Shallower water also needs more scope for a variety of reasons.

But in general, that's part of why I hang on it in reverse with a little throttle. It's enough pull that I know it'll hold at least 30 kts of wind at the current scope in the current bottom. If it doesn't hold solidly, I either need more scope, or the bottom sucks.

Steve/SV Panope reported some surprising holds while serially shortening scope on some of the "more modern" anchors. Not that I`d want to try 1.5:1, but it suggests reliable holding at less than 7:1. But, each to his own, we have to be comfortable with what we do.
"Power setting" could mean lots of things to lots of people. I believe in "testing" the set, by several applications of modest reverse power. But only after I believe the anchor has set,for which I use wind/current or if absent light reverse throttle, to get the boat moving backwards.

I almost always anchor at less than 6-1.
And in benign weather 2-1 w a small anchorage or bigger w too many boats.
And I almost never use an anchor that dosn’t have a reputation of having above average short scope performance. Why should I? Most any anchor will hold fairly well at 7-1+ scope but quite a few anchors have an edge there.

Murray wrote;
“BC's north coast has mostly mud/muck to deal with. My wife backs us down while I pay out the rode (chain + nylon) and I keep a hand on the rode after it's tied off. My wife keeps in reverse until I tell her to stop.

You can feel the anchor set through the rode.”

I do that and agree. I’ve never used a chain rode but w nylon line one can “feel” a lot of information from how the line behaves.

Soo-Valley said:

OK, enough overthinking this. Here is how I do it.
Pull up to the spot I want to drop anchor, point up current or upwind, check depth, pay out the anchor, chain (and rode) for a 3-5 to 1 scope and go for a drink while watching to ensure the anchor has set and boat remains put.

Click to expand...

That's pretty much what I used to do with my S-Sarca as well.

O C Diver said:

I tend to anchor in less than 20' of water, drop the Rocna and 7:1 chain over, add the snubber and call it good. If I'm expecting more than 25 knots, I'll do more.
Ted

Click to expand...

Ditto.

mvweebles said:

Surprised at comments that some folks don't always back-down when setting their anchor. Honestly, I thought that was a normal best-practice that was done as a matter of course.
Is this an east-coast vs west-coast thing?
Peter

Click to expand...

Neither. Happens everywhere with folk who, by experience, have confidence in their rig. The nextgen anchors will be mainly what you find these folk have.

Bigsfish said:

I frequently read (in this topic also) that many boaters use 3-5 scope. I find this strange as I was taught many decades ago to use a 7-1 scope. I usually go with that for an overnight anchorage, occasionally I’ll use 10-1 if I’m expecting a blow of 25 knots or more. I will use 5-1 for a lunch in light winds (under 15 knots).

I’m still not ready to overnight with a 3/5 -1 scope. Am I wrong?

Click to expand...

The takeaway on scope with nextgen anchors has a lot to do with water depth. Having gone by you a couple of times at anchor, the depth of the water you're in is inappropriate for short scope anchoring, IMO. If anchoring in 40'+ of water, I can understand the physics change, especially with all chain. But anchoring in 10 to 15' on 3:1 over night, makes absolutely no sense. 30 to 45' of rode is ridiculously short, even with a snubber. Going 7:1 only adds 40 to 60' of additional chain, swing radius, and retrieval in the morning. I can't imagine anchoring with less than 70' of chain in the water.

Ted

Peter wrote;
“Neither. Happens everywhere with folk who, by experience, have confidence in their rig. The nextgen anchors will be mainly what you find these folk have.”

Many people had a lot of confidence many things that failed. And the bottom location within the anchorage could easily vary enough to set up a failure. Setting isn’t a sure thing either but it’s the best thing we have to a sure thing. IMO

Interesting update from Steve on Panope. 38 min video comparing over a dozen anchors in cobble over sand bottom, a difficult bottom to set. For those who are adherents of not power setting your anchor, might be worth a watch of the entire video to see how few anchors set.

Sarca, Spade, and Rocna Vulcan did well. Mantus and Ultra are middle of this pack (both do very well in sand), Forfjord and Northill fisherman's anchor is not great. Fortress and CQR are worthless for this bottom.

Emphasis is that this is not a common bottom. But interesting to see the setting comparison.

https://youtu.be/HngP1Z0LYoo

mvweebles said:

Interesting update from Steve on Panope...For those who are adherents of not power setting your anchor, might be worth a watch of the entire video to see how few anchors set...

Click to expand...

Yup. You can feel the anchor skipping along the bottom if your hand is on the rode (ours is chain/nylon) while backing down, and it's obvious when it sets.

Me-thinks larger anchors on bigger boats would do better on this type of bottom, where the longer length of the anchors face would be able to get into sand below the rocks.

The dangers of nylon rodes with anti-chaffing

Some time ago after a serious hurricane many boats were lost due to the breaking of nylon anchor rodes where anti-chafing gear was used. One of the major rope manufactures did research on this and determined the chafing gear caused excess heat from the stretching back and forth of the nylon rode inside the chafing gear. Often boat owners were using rubber or plastic hose which did not allow ventilation.