Interesting boats
- Thread starter Steve
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The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
BruceK
Moderator Emeritus
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- Vessel Name
- Sojourn
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If wood really is ok, why wasn`t that 600ft+ baby you command made of wood?
BruceK
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Well, they all rot,but in different ways. There is a choice: wood rot/worms, osmosis, or rust. Ain`t choice wonderful?
Give me a well laid-up, high quality material, fiberglass boat with good gel coat surface any time... for lowest general maintenance needs/costs and less chance of severe breakdown from general elements and natural conditions.
Simi 60
Guru
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- Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
And for that you will generally pay many many many times more.
For us it was buy a timber now and retire at 50 and have all our income producing assets plus many years of life to enjoy it
Or work another 20 years then sell everything to buy comparable plastic, have no income and die a year later.
Simi 60
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Yep, have had a few mates around our age drop off their perch in recent years working their ring out to make sure they retire wealthy enough to buy whatever they want.
If only they realised that you can't buy time.
I agree with you to a large extent.
Enjoy your [big] woody!
I well understand wood boats. Grew up on em. Worked maintaining them for decades. At this age I enjoy our little, well equipped, simple upkeep... fiberglass play toy... pleasure boat!
Donsan
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- Hurricane SS188
Monk designed this?
Woodie for sale in Seattle. Not many pics and looks like it could use a lot of TLC.
https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/19...tates?refSource=standard listing#.W5pIH_YpARA
Woodie for sale in Seattle. Not many pics and looks like it could use a lot of TLC.
https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/19...tates?refSource=standard listing#.W5pIH_YpARA
Attachments
A beauty for sure! Soooo much work to maintain, though.
50's / 60's I did upkeep on boats similar to that in LI, NY "boat yards" [not called marinas back then in that region].
Strip to bare wood, bleach and then apply ten [10] coats "Valspar" brand of varnish; light sanding between each coat... till there was truly a mirror finish! Refasten bottom anyone! Replace rotten wood around windows! Replace transom due to rot. As youngster I worked with and learned from some fine old shipwrights.
Ed Monk Sr. [designer of this boat] is who designed most Tollycraft... ours being one. His son Ed Monk Jr. carried on in dad's foot steps.
Now I own only very well built, easy to maintain fiberglass boats - can you understand why - LOL
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Given the amount of "TLC" needed from the scant pictures and what hasn't been shown I think the $49K asking price is $10K for the boat and $39K for the "nostalgia". Given that she has probably been berthed in freshwater for most of her life (I suspect) she hasn't had the luxury of salt water "preservation". Been there,done that. She'll have to go to a new owner with deep pockets who values her history. IF the 6-71 is in good shape, THAT'S worth a couple of $$ but...
Given the amount of "TLC" needed from the scant pictures and what hasn't been shown I think the $49K asking price is $10K for the boat and $39K for the "nostalgia". Given that she has probably been berthed in freshwater for most of her life (I suspect) she hasn't had the luxury of salt water "preservation". Been there,done that. She'll have to go to a new owner with deep pockets who values her history. IF the 6-71 is in good shape, THAT'S worth a couple of $$ but...
Surely a lookalike. Bow rail looks different.
Donsan
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Nomad Willy
Guru
Looks efficient but I see a big prop.
I love this FB layout.
The CQR in the chainpipe sure looks odd.
I love this FB layout.
The CQR in the chainpipe sure looks odd.
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ben2go
Guru
I have seen some boats hauled out and glassed. Theysand thee hull back to fresh wood. Then make repairs and clean out the joints. They finish up by using a seam compound that stays soft. Then encapsulate the hull in two or three layers of 6 to 10 ounce fiberglass cloth and epoxy. It will take paint or UV stable stains and varnishes. Of course, not all hulls lend themselves to this type of treatment. Lapped joints being one of them.
Benthic2
Guru
I'd have to say same boat... different time of its long life!
twiisted71
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The lights are different on the radar mast as well as the anchorlight/main mast.
Looks like something from an early Bond, James Bond flick! She's ready to run the gaunlet dropping drums of fuel off the stern to turn into makeshift floating bombs!
That's called "cold-lam" in marine world vernacular. It could be just OK and it could be real bad... greatly depending as to how the fiberglass laminate procedure was enacted and finalized. Personally, I do not like cold-lam building technique for boats.
Three reasons...
1. Promotes rot in wood between the fiberglass and the wood where water enters due to any # of reasons. And, that rot is not seen until it goes all the way through the wood. Repairing it correctly is a task for sure; that includes wood and fiberglass repair work.
2. Adds great extra weight to the boat when applied as thick as is actually, correctly needed.
3. It's still a wood boat - with one side of the hull no longer available for inspection, refastening or repairs - plain and simple!
If you want a fiberglass boat - then get a fiberglass boat. Want a wood boat - get a wood boat. But, to intertwine the two regarding hull-laminate purposes is simply not good business - IMO!!!
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Simi 60
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I have built timber/epoxy boats before, usually western red cedar strip and double bias and epoxy on BOTH sides.
Produces a stiff, light structure and pretty trouble free if dings are repaired in a timely manner.
Western red cedar, various pines and spruces, balsa, pawlonia all like epoxy.
For what we have now, the timber is 2 inch thick spotted gum which is pretty common species in caulked timber vessels.
It really is not a great timber for glassing, its oily nature does not hold resin that well.
Of course you can and many do use a solvent thinned resin to aid adhesion but it seems eventually they have problems as the planks expand/contract and seams move and for that reason I would not glass 1 side only of any timber boat even if it did like epoxy.
But thats me.
Produces a stiff, light structure and pretty trouble free if dings are repaired in a timely manner.
Western red cedar, various pines and spruces, balsa, pawlonia all like epoxy.
For what we have now, the timber is 2 inch thick spotted gum which is pretty common species in caulked timber vessels.
It really is not a great timber for glassing, its oily nature does not hold resin that well.
Of course you can and many do use a solvent thinned resin to aid adhesion but it seems eventually they have problems as the planks expand/contract and seams move and for that reason I would not glass 1 side only of any timber boat even if it did like epoxy.
But thats me.
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ben2go
Guru
You're probably right. I've seen it done the way I describe to good and bad hulls. I have also watched a thread many years ago on Wooden Boat forum where a guy removed all the glass and epoxy from a good hull. It was a mess and took months of heating, scraping, and grinding to get back to wood.
OldDan1943
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Remove everything down to the deck, turn it over, repair the hull and you have a plug for a fiber glass hull.
ben2go
Guru
I have seen boats that have been done that way. I didn't witness the process only the completed boat.
BeeJay
Senior Member
Looks like the same boat, the biggest difference being the pilot house windows - but that could be explained by the pilot house door being slid 1/2 open. Nice boat (or boats) all the same.
Benthic2
Guru
The swin platform looked longer in one too....but that could have been modified. Odds are, given the age and uniqueness of the boat, its the same. This is not a 13 foot Boston Whaler we are talking about.
