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Nomad Willy said:
CMS,
I have a gas powered small sedan that now has 304,000 miles.

Not serious maintenance ever performed and 10w30 dino type oil all the way.
Click to expand...

The only reason my Toyota & Honda run Synthetic is because theycame from the factory that way. I can buy Supertech full synthetic for less than a branded Dino..I fully suspect I could easily get 750K out of Dino but both manufacturers insist on a synthetic..:facepalm:
 
We recently acquired an F150 with the twin turbo V6. The engine develops 400 HP and 500ft lbs torque. As with most if not all current engines, whether diesel or gas, it would seem foolhardy to stray from the manufactures oil recommendations This is even more important as emissions testing, warranties and longevity are critical factors subject to oil type.

25 to 40 year old diesels that see low annual hours seem oblivious to oil types thus ripe for discussion. As an aside, I had great difficulty sourcing DELO 15-40 in the lower 48 but it is stacked high in the Petersburg NAPA store.
 
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NomadWilly, What was chosen as the best anchor? Can you direct me to the link?
 
Sunchaser wrote;
“ As with most if not all current engines, whether diesel or gas, it would seem foolhardy to stray from the manufactures oil recommendations ”

I don’t do that on newer engines.
On older engines I do .. mostly to use a MV oil that wasn’t made when the car was made and the owners manual was written. Example .. substituting w10-40 for w10-30 prior to going over a mountain pass in summer heat. Stick’in my neck out? Maybe the bump on the end of my nose. And on my 06 Avalon (where the dealer puts in w10-30 Mobile 1 dino) I’m about to use the zinc additive that Art uses. I think I have a bit of extra valve noise. Nobody at the dealer has said anything about it. Would probably say “it’s normal for this car”. I’ll probably ask anyway.

In the early days of ultralight flying I used a high tech motorcycle racing oil. A synthetic oil so viscus it was too thick to use in oil injection systems (two stroke engines). The manufacturer didn’t recommend it saying they didn’t have time to test all oils. This is an example where deviating from the manufacturers recommendation worked out very well. Usually I avoid it .. like you.
 
Ncheaven,
Rocna


With people quoting Shakespeare and Longfellow I better minimize my words.
 
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Nomad Willy said:
Sunchaser wrote;
“ As with most if not all current engines, whether diesel or gas, it would seem foolhardy to stray from the manufactures oil recommendations ”

I don’t do that on newer engines.
On older engines I do .. mostly to use a MV oil that wasn’t made when the car was made and the owners manual was written. Example .. substituting w10-40 for w10-30 prior to going over a mountain pass in summer heat. Stick’in my neck out? Maybe the bump on the end of my nose. And on my 06 Avalon (where the dealer puts in w10-30 Mobile 1 dino) I’m about to use the zinc additive that Art uses. I think I have a bit of extra valve noise. Nobody at the dealer has said anything about it. Would probably say “it’s normal for this car”. I’ll probably ask anyway.

In the early days of ultralight flying I used a high tech motorcycle racing oil. A synthetic oil so viscus it was too thick to use in oil injection systems (two stroke engines). The manufacturer didn’t recommend it saying they didn’t have time to test all oils. This is an example where deviating from the manufacturers recommendation worked out very well. Usually I avoid it .. like you.
Click to expand...

ZDDP [i.e. zinc] is not compatible with materials in catalytic converters. It ruins them. Just a warning. I only use ZDDP in pre catalytic engines.
 
Nomad Willy said:
BruceK,
Castor oil is not user friendly.
Unless you race.

Bumpkin wrote;
“As to viscosity it probably doesn't matter, for you, in the Northwest a multi viscosity may serve you better for easier cranking in the winter.”

Right it dosn’t matter. MV oil is not needed since our engines aren’t exposed to outside winter temperatures. Why should I want easier cranking for starting? I went for about 12 years living in SE Alaska using Chevron RPM Delo 30wt. Oil. I had a little heater in the engine compartment so the engine never got below about 40 degrees. But the heater was there mostly for other reasons. Engine didn’t need it. Never hesitated to crank smartly and start quickly w almost no exhaust smoke. All other things being equal oil is better w fewer VI additives and a higher percentage of oil .. in the oil. Most anyone will tell you “buy the oil w the narrowest range if viscosity ratings. Like 0w20 instead of 0w40. The reason is that oil is better w less VI. And of course that’s single grade oil … 30wt. 40wt ect.
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Willy, you are still pushing this myth?
 
Thank you much Art.
Usta be luxuary cars were as quiet as their builders could make them.
Now not so much ..
 
Nomad Willy said:
Thank you much Art.
Usta be luxuary cars were as quiet as their builders could make them.
Now not so much ..
Click to expand...

Here's an interesting "oil" item for ya.

Fellow who just before we purchased our Tolly fully rebuilt the port engine and top-end rebuilt the stbd engine is a renowned marine engine rebuilder in this area. He put in Valvoline diesel oil and recommended I continue doing so; due to its higher zinc content than regular oil for gasoline engines. I ran to point of oil change and did so. Then, at 2nd oil change I put in high quality gasoline engine oil with 4 oz ZDDP.

Having run the engines for 14 years we've had not one hiccup in their performance or oil usage [neither uses any between oil changes].

Guess that goes to show ya... as long as its good oil that is good-enough for older, looser tolerance gas engines! :thumb:
 
IRENE said:
I communicated with Blackstone labs about Kirkland 15w-40 diesel engine oil. No derogatory information reported. We have plenty of it on hand now, and in use, but nothing back from analysis to report on.
Click to expand...

Posting to this older (and highly drifted) thread about COSTCO OIL for those doing searches and/or research.

I received an oil analysis today following a sample of the Kirkland 15w40 diesel engine oil. The sample had 244 hours on it, and it was in the engine 50 weeks. The TBN was 7.9, where my prior average (with less hours in all cases) was 5.4.
Comments from the lab included, “very minimal steel wear on a per-hour basis”.

So this first run of the Kirkland oil works for us. We were in it for $8 per gallon.
 
Been using the same stuff (Kirkland Brand, Costco). Oil samples all look good on my end as well. ~30 year old CAT 3208 TA's... :)
 
Thanks for the follow up and great to hear. I've been running the Costco Kirkland 15w40 this year on my Perkins 4.236's but don't get oil analysis.

What is the "TBN"?
 
TBN is the Total Base Number, which is a measurement of the oil's ability to handle contaminants in the oil. Once the number gets close to zero it is time to replace the oil. There are other values that would require changing the oil, though, such as how much fuel is in the oil.

Prior to ULSD, a good synthetic oil had a TBN around 15 or more, if I remember right. After ULSD, the TBN is lower since it is not needed since the fuel is cleaner and I think is around 10ish.

Later,
Dan
 
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