Steering with engines? (more than just docking?)

[Nickair]

Yes, a twin engine boat will be steered by engine RPM. Thrust vs. Drag of the props will do the job of steering at speed. Shifting the trans should only be needed for extreme maneuvering at harbor speed.

 

[psneeld]

This could easily degrade into a twin versus single thing but the rope wrapped on a shaft illustrates one instance where a twin might be better than a single. Just sayin...

If you watch the skippers on Deadliest Catch you usually see them working the transmissions a lot. Ours may be less robust than their transmissions, but they usually give them a real workout.

With respect to docking everything I have learned from YouTube or the school of hard knocks but I really prefer a twin over a single. However, I keep my hands off the throttle! Most crashes I’ve seen with large boats have involved grabbing a handful of throttle when they panic. I set my throttles either at idle or a touch above and just work the transmission. So far I haven’t hurt anything. With that said, it’s probably like retractable gear airplanes. There are those that have landed with the gear up, and those that will.

I have seen plenty of twins that have crunched because they didn't use throttle when they needed it.

Whether single or twins, in some conditions and whenever the wind /current increases....usually the need for throttle increases too.

You know you are getting good when you don't panic and use exactly what you need (trans or throttle) when you need it...

 

[rslifkin]

I have seen plenty of twins that have crunched because they didn't use throttle when they needed it.

Whether single or twins, in some conditions and whenever the wind /current increases....usually the need for throttle increases too.

You know you are getting good when you don't panic and use exactly what you need (trans or throttle) when you need it...

Agreed, I've seen it too. My rule of thumb is always "as slow as possible, as fast as necessary". On a face dock approach with 20 kts blowing you directly off the dock, the "as fast as necessary" part can almost resemble throwing the boat at the dock.

 

[Derik]

When I purchased my MT 43 for Insurance reasons, I had to do 10 hours with a Captain. I ended up doing 15 and really liked the instruction. He advised me with my boat not to even try to steer it under 3 knots. Set the rudders straight and use the engines. It's not difficult but throwing in some throttle takes some practice, and is often times necessary in tight quarters with wind and current.

I was also instructed that as long as the RPM's were at idle there were no worries about shifting from Forward to reverse over and over, hitting neutral and hesitating a few seconds.

 

[rslifkin]

Generally I agree, don't bother with the rudders in a twin at very low speeds. But there are some times it's useful to use the rudders to supplement differential thrust. You can spin the boat in place much more quickly with some the rudders hard over, for example. Some boats can also be walked directly sideways.

Plus, it's good to know how the boat reacts to rudder input at low speeds, especially with 1 or both engines out of gear. Then you have a better idea of what you'll have for steering response if you ever have to dock the boat with an engine out.

 

[koliver]

When I made my rudder (single) I machined a 1 1/4" hex on the top of the post. A breaker bar and a socket now makes a tiller. I do need two people as tiller man would need to be below deck.

I would like to bore a hole in the deck above the rudder post so tiller could be used from the cockpit deck. I've got fair (not great) vis from there, but to be safe it would still be a two person job.

I'd love to find a bronze through-deck flush fitting with a screw-out plate that I could mount above the rudder post in the deck, but a little searching was not real productive.

Anyone have one laying around, I'm interested.

I have a bronze fitting that, when open, allows the emergency tiller to attach to an extension of the rudder post at almost cockpit floor level.. Mine resembles my fuel, water and waste deck fills. The difference being that it has no lettering. It is mounted just below the lazarette hatch, so when in use, you can stand on the cockpit floor and actually see out.
Being so equipped, I have never had to use it.

 

[Nickair]

I have a bronze fitting that, when open, allows the emergency tiller to attach to an extension of the rudder post at almost cockpit floor level.. Mine resembles my fuel, water and waste deck fills. The difference being that it has no lettering. It is mounted just below the lazarette hatch, so when in use, you can stand on the cockpit floor and actually see out.
Being so equipped, I have never had to use it.

This direct vertical Deck access is on many boats. A shaft with a usually square fitting mates to the rudder or fitting attached. This easy to store setup is an emergency tiller to steer the boat directly if the remote gear fails. The shaft will have a top removable horizontal control bar acting as a manual rudder control like a tiller type sailboat.

 

[caltexflanc]

I have a bronze fitting that, when open, allows the emergency tiller to attach to an extension of the rudder post at almost cockpit floor level.. Mine resembles my fuel, water and waste deck fills. The difference being that it has no lettering. It is mounted just below the lazarette hatch, so when in use, you can stand on the cockpit floor and actually see out.
Being so equipped, I have never had to use it.

Have you ever practiced using it? If not, it'd be a good idea.

 

[DW1979OA]

Port Townsend Foundry can probably make exactly what you want in that deck fitting. I had them cast some bronze hawse cleats for me that turned out great.
When I brought my boat up from Sacramento to Bremerton I had a metal strap made to take the place of the hydraulic ram and keep the rudders straight ahead in case the ram blew out. Never needed it but have it anyway.

 

[BruceK]

Generally I agree,(1) don't bother with the rudders in a twin at very low speeds.(2) But there are some times it's useful to use the rudders to supplement differential thrust. You can spin the boat in place much more quickly with some the rudders hard over, for example. Some boats can also be walked directly sideways.....

1. Neither do we, from the time we enter the "Inlet" where there are 5 marinas and numerous boats on moorings, it`s "throttles set and steer by gears', unless something odd arises.
2. Boat rotates more quickly and tightly by adding full rudder to the one fwd one reverse method.

 

[Nickair]

Port Townsend Foundry can probably make exactly what you want in that deck fitting. I had them cast some bronze hawse cleats for me that turned out great.
When I brought my boat up from Sacramento to Bremerton I had a metal strap made to take the place of the hydraulic ram and keep the rudders straight ahead in case the ram blew out. Never needed it but have it anyway.

Now this is a good idea. In case of a steering failure, just mount a pre-fabricated fixed link to hold rudder/s in neutral. No tending the tiller and can remain inside to run throttles for steerage. (On a twin of course)