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Old 05-28-2018, 05:15 PM   #21
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Packed a few valves and pumps that were secured along time ago, but never a shaft on a boat so nothing technical to add re a boat shaft. Figured it would be best to haul to do this, especially if your first time, but sounds like others think it’s manageable. Cutting the proper lengths and Getting the packing in there correctly takes some practice IMO, so you may want to practice beforehand if you have never done it. Good luck.
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Old 05-28-2018, 05:23 PM   #22
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If you want to know the packing size, look at the photo posted in #7. Measure the diameter of the protrusion on the compression piece ... subtract the shaft diameter and divide that by 2. That will be the packing size. You can gain ease of installation of new packing by lightly hammering down the thickness so it will slide into the housing.

You will be fighting water coming through the packing gland as you remove the old packing. Your packing is internal on the stern tube end and can be a real pain to remove. (some packing systems use a nut with the packing in the nut and the flow from the stern tube can be blocked as referenced previously) It is best to have your new packing strips cut to size and ready to reinstall before removing the old. Most packing glands I have worked on use 3 strips but ??
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Old 05-28-2018, 05:38 PM   #23
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Thanks for all the comments. The guy who will be with me is a marine mechanic and has done them in the past. Otherwise I would leave it alone. However, I think I really need to have it done as I am getting squealing from the shafts after tightening to stop some more than normal dripping. Dripping is now normal or what you guys describe as normal. Sound/squeal is definitely from shaft but no overheating of stuffing box or shaft when it is happening. I can't find any evidence of when packing was last changed so figure I should redo, start all over. The boat was just pulled this past November for bottom job, replace seacock, etc. Dont want to pull it just for this.

New mental picture...me standing on dock next to boat which is now sitting on the bottom. I'm mumbling to no one in particular... "Shoulda had it pulled."
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Old 05-28-2018, 05:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstbase View Post
Thanks for all the comments. The guy who will be with me is a marine mechanic and has done them in the past. Otherwise I would leave it alone. However, I think I really need to have it done as I am getting squealing from the shafts after tightening to stop some more than normal dripping. Dripping is now normal or what you guys describe as normal. Sound/squeal is definitely from shaft but no overheating of stuffing box or shaft when it is happening. I can't find any evidence of when packing was last changed so figure I should redo, start all over. The boat was just pulled this past November for bottom job, replace seacock, etc. Dont want to pull it just for this.

New mental picture...me standing on dock next to boat which is now sitting on the bottom. I'm mumbling to no one in particular... "Shoulda had it pulled."
Are you going to use the Gore fiber?
Do not use the old style flax packing.
It drips lot, can run hot and score shafts, it just is inferior stuff nowadays.

Over 10 years ago, I used Gore GFO marine packing on my old scored dripping shafts, and it has been perfect ever since. I tightened it up about 3 times.
Prior owner who used the old flax packing could never stop the shafts from spraying lots of water, was constantly adjusting the packing, and worried about it too. When I got the boat, there was a steady spray of water soaking everything down there.
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Old 05-28-2018, 05:59 PM   #25
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The first time I’d ever seen a packing nut was when we first pulled our boat on the hard the first summer we had it.

The previous owner had made a note in the maintenance log for what size packing he used, so I bought that and installed it while on land. Since I’d never done it before, I didn’t know it was too small.

When Badger was back in the water it dribbled continuously from the stuffing box without the shaft even turning.

Luckily I hadn’t thrown the garbage away and fished out the old packing to get the right measurement. This is when the idea about strips of cloth and strips of bicycle inner tubes to stem the flow came from.

One thing I learned from doing it in the water was to find out just how little the packing nut had to be tightened, which really surprised me. Kept an eye on it for the rest of the summer and tightened it slightly a few more times to get the dripping right.

If yours goes anything like mine it’ll be unnerving, but straightforward.
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:11 PM   #26
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repacking shaft glands.

i have just done this on my trawler yacht. To get the size of the packing, simply measure the diameter of the part of the gland that acts as the packing piece. Take away that diameter from the shaft diameter and you have the packing material size /2.
Are you going to take out all of the old packing? There is a special tool with a screw at the end which makes this easier. Have the new packing ready in the correct lengths. I usually just wind the packing round the shaft several times and then cut with a very sharp cutter at an angle of 45 degrees to the shaft. You don't want the packing to butt up with square ends.
I then usually hammer the packing a little to get it flatter.
Pull out the old packing (it is not necessary to remove it all if you do not want to as you are in a risky situation).
Once you are ready, push the first piece of packing into the gap between the shaft and the housing and push in the metal device which will put pressure on the packing and push it into the gap as far as you can, to get room for the next piece. The piece where the packing joins should be opposite the butting part of the first packing if you are putting in only 2 pieces but at 120 degrees if you are putting in 3 pieces.
Tighten as necessary and then run the shaft so that you can see if it drips. Better to let it drip at first then tighten it to the point where it just stops.
Best of luck. If you get everything prepared you should have no problem.
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