1985 Tiawanese Trawler (Hershine). Restoring woodwork on flying bridge. Removed all the louvered doors to sand/refinish, but one door won't open far enough to allow me access to the hinge screws (see photo, first frame). The wheel is blocking the door.
I removed the wheel cap and found a large nut holding the wheel to the shaft (frame 2), but once the nut was removed, the wheel does not budge and I can't figure out how the wheel can be taken off the shaft. It does not appear that the wheel is engaging the shaft threads.
There is a small slot in the base of the wheel, and I think maybe a little pin fitting into the slot (frame 3) ? On the exterior of the shaft (behind the wheel) is a small (rusty) pin that looks like it is designed to fit into some tool that keeps the shaft from rotating (frame 4).
Mr. C. The last picture in above post (#6) is EXACTLY the way to remove the wheel. It is most probably on a tapered shaft with a keyway (that "slot" is the keyway). Do NOT under any circumstances go to bashing and pulling on the wheel or the shaft for reasons mentioned....ie: potential damage to the innards of your steering mechanism.
Do NOT under any circumstances go to bashing and pulling on the wheel or the shaft for reasons mentioned....ie: potential damage to the innards of your steering mechanism.
Thanks to everyone for their advice. I suspected this was probably a tapered fitting. After inspecting the steering mechanism behind the bulkhead, I decided against using brute force (hammers) to dislodge the wheel and consulted my keyboard and TrawlerForum instead. Your advice has helped me to understand...
1) The end of the shaft is tapered, so this is a pressure fitting
2) The slot is a "keyway" which prevents the wheel from slipping/rotating over the shaft when turning
3) The wheel is not threaded or screwed onto the shaft, but simply lined up with the keyway and jammed into the pressure fitting by tightening the end nut.
I do not have a wheel puller, but I will ask around the marina to see if there is one I can borrow. I suspect this is the safest means to the end result. If I can't find one, I may try the suggestion of using thread lubricant and gently tapping the nut while someone pulls on the wheel. I do plan to re-use the wheel and steering apparatus, so emphasis on gentle/safe.
If the Forum doesn't hear back from me right away, its because I am back at work and not at the boat for a few weeks.
Around $20 at Harbor Freight. You can jury rig your own with a two-by-four with a hole drilled in the center, two c-clamps of the right size, a big all-thread bolt, two nuts and a big washer (from personal experience when I was nowhere near a tool or auto store) but that's a lot of messing around if you can just buy one for around $20.
Wheel puller is more commonly referred to as a "gear puller" inexpensive purchase at any auto parts store. The key installed to keep wheel from spinning is known as a "woodruff" key. You have them on your prop shafts as well where they connect to the transmission
I bought a 5-ton geer puller at AutoZone. The tip is tapered, so I drilled a countersink into the end of the shaft to prevent the puller from migrating. Then I applied some Liquid Wrench to the shaft. After a few cranks on the puller, I heard a "pop" as the wheel broke loose. I hope the video uploads (you can hear the "pop").
My dad rec'd Liquid Wrench for stuck bolts, screws etc. I was skeptical, but after the wheel was off, the shaft and interior of the wheel housing were slippery with oil. It did penetrate.
Also the tiny brass hinge screws on the remaining locker door would not back out, so I put a dab of Liquid Wrench on them too...and then they backed right out with ease. Another addition to my tool box... an "essential oil".