Recommendation: trawler with wood deck on steel hull

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Mako

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I'm considering a purchase of a heavy steel trawler, haven't finalized negotiations yet, but wanted some feedback.

The boat is steel hull, main deck, deckhouse walls. However the deckhouse roof was covered in teak (to save weight aloft) then the pilothouse on top is aluminum.

The owner (original still) eventually realized the shortcomings and covered the teak in plywood which is painted. You can see from the two photos.

The owner appears to have taken good care of the vessel, and during survey I'll have the ceiling lining opened up and the steel upper deck framing inspected, as well as the condition of the plywood.

One of my previous steel boats had a teak deck which caused problems and the PO covered it with a rubberized coating, which I assume was an elastomeric polyurethane, or similar. The coating was fine but the frames under the teak were already corroded away.

I certainly would prefer an all-steel boat especially for the bluewater plans that I have. But perhaps from a practical point of view, if I were to just fiberglass over the plywood deck, or use a similar coating, then it might be acceptable.

Every boat is a compromise, especially used ones, but I'm potentially negotiating a very attractive price.

Any feedback please.
 

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Cost of replacing the house with steel plate?
 
You already know the answer: If the job was done right, no problem. If it was a slipshod job, Big problem.

pete
 
I could work up an estimate to have the entire upper deck replaced with 1/8" plating, then some ballast down low added, perhaps have the work done in Mexico with lower shipyard rates. That's a major operation of course.

Back to coating the plywood, which would be a better application, elastomeric coating or fiberglassing? Upper deck gets minor foot traffic compared to main deck.
 
PassageMaker Magazine had an article many years ago about putting spray on bed liner over teak decks. The owner had the boat for quite a few years after and told me that it worked well and had no leaks.
 
Wood or steel, the deck has to be protected from water. The maintenance of the wood deck isn't going to be near the cost of replacing the deck with steel. And the plating has to be thick enough to support weight or it will dish between supports. I don't think 1/8" will do it. And depending on the welding skill of the yard, the deck could still end up with a dished appearance.
 
The 1/8" plate would require many cross braces to strengthen it. I would think 3/8" would require less cross bracing to keep it from developing cupping.
 
Hello,

My North Sea Trawler 57' deck was covered by a fake teak, Plastiteak, an horror and a big mistake. This PVC is reacting differently from the steel plates under. Sorry for the translation, but in summer, you are creating "points de rosée" when level of humidity is raising. The best thing have done on my trawler: take off all this rubbish ( 250 Kg of plastic with the glue, using an electric tool and some extra hands...) and after that: a new clean two component expoxy coats and a kiwi grip anti slip paint for finition. By the way, you can see if there are some very local rusty spots. Never cover a steel deck!!!
 
You could replace the wood with thick aluminum that would still be lighter than wood.

There are strips of aluminum factory welded to steel to make the job possible.


These are usually used to fasten an aluminum structure to a steel boat.


Ask your boat yard.
 
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Back to coating the plywood, which would be a better application, elastomeric coating or fiberglassing? Upper deck gets minor foot traffic compared to main deck.

I'm not sure covering the wood deck with more wood is the best option - but to answer your specific question of coating on plywood...my experience in this area is with classic wood boats. The general consensus is if you want to keep the water out, the best option is marine plywood covered in dynell which is set in epoxy. It won't move and won't flex, so you will need to consider that if covering another type of deck. Ply covered in dynell will be a long term repair/mod and is frequently used on classic restorations.

Lots of opinions on the type of epoxy to use, but my contacts like System 3 for this application because it is thinner and wets out the dynell better.
 
I am receiving the same advice to use dynell/epoxy from several sources. Certainly more practical than trying to replace with steel.

Regarding covering the plywood, or removing it back to just teak and then covering the teak, that would need to be seen at survey.

Thanks for the input.

Wish this virus issue never happened - it screwed up my plans to finalize with a shipyard there.
 
Dynell is used to give that classic canvas look on boats. Myself I would use 12oz biax. Not much heaver and a lot tougher. With epoxy.
 
Will that stuff stick directly to teak, or would the oils break down the bond eventually?
 
OP would need to check with his epoxy supplier for bonding to teak. In this case I think plywood is covering the teak already. He would need to clean the paint off before glassing.
 

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