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Old 07-09-2017, 01:38 PM   #41
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Thanks guys. Haven't really looked at how they come off on my engines. I know they seem to be "right there" and easy to get to. Would be nice to soak them all at once and get it over with and then back on. Will look at it. Hopefully when I open the bigger HE up I find it crudded up. That would most likely solve my overheat at WOT without anything else being wrong. Maybe.

Yes but don't forget the engine oil HE (which is the first in line after the raw water pump) could have a bunch of debris in the front of it which could also by itself be preventing proper flow. That's also really easy to fix.

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Old 07-12-2017, 03:24 PM   #42
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One main thing...don't loose sleep over this. Enjoy your boat, do what you have to do when you have the time. Keep your usual rpms and attack one component at a time. You'll get it sorted eventually. It's a cooling system after all.
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:17 AM   #43
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A couple of things to keep in mind;
You will need to cut the HE zinc to no longer than 1 1/2" for it to fit.
The correct oil capacity including filter is either 13 1/2 or 14 1/2 qts depending on who you ask. I settled in 14 qts. Dipsticks may vary. 14 qts brings my dipstick oil level to the "I" in "min".
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:59 PM   #44
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Thanks for the comments. Opening the heat exchanger is easy but can I open the oil cooler while it is still installed? How does it open up?
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:00 AM   #45
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Thanks for the comments. Opening the heat exchanger is easy but can I open the oil cooler while it is still installed? How does it open up?
Do you mean engine oil or transmission oil? Many engine oil coolers use coolant rather than raw water. Transmission Hxers are normally quite easy to remove and bucket soak. Many prefer to scrap transmission HXers after a decade or less. They are cheap in comparison to a gear box rebuild.
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Old 07-15-2017, 08:18 AM   #46
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Thanks for the comments. Opening the heat exchanger is easy but can I open the oil cooler while it is still installed? How does it open up?
The oil coolers on the SP135's don't really open. To look "inside" you take the hose off the end and look in. Its only the raw water circuit so you don't have to worry about oil, etc. As I said before, the one right after the raw water pump cools the engine oil and THAT is the one that will have bits of impeller and/or ocean debris. You really should look in there.

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Old 08-07-2017, 06:45 AM   #47
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OK, finished the RW flush on both sides with a detour off to fix an elbow connection covered in another thread. Looked at HE (no tubes blocked but some gunk) and oil cooler (no pieces of anything). Took the boat out yesterday and both engines it ran at 180 degrees for a couple of hours no problem. Decided to test out WOT. The starboard engine went up to 190 degrees and stayed there. Although it took longer than the first time the port engine kept going and I backed off at 200 when the alarm sounded. Assuming an increase from 180 to 190 at WOT is within reason it had a positive effect on the starboard side but not on port. Again, new impellers, strainers clear visually, bottom just cleaned last week, and now system flushed. I guess I go back to square one and start with opening up strainer and then hose to pump. Make sure I am getting full flow of water. Maybe change port impeller again in case there is something funky there? This was the impeller that sat installed for a week or so before I opened up seacock and ran after replacement. Don't know why that would affect it though. Will also search old paperwork to see if water pumps were replaced at some point by the PO. Engines have 4,190 hours and if these are the original pumps maybe time to replace? I don't what "normal" hours before replacement are on these?
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:26 AM   #48
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If you haven't been hauled for a while there may be something in your strainers. I found a dead fish in one of mine when I had a Lehman. Smelly.
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:14 PM   #49
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Just a curiuous thought. its something I've come uppon a few times of 40 years working in a boatyard.

I've seen the thru hulls scoop type installed back wards causing a vacuum at high speeds and starving the pump.

I'd check the water flow at higher speed you could place plastic in the line to see if your pumping bubbles (cavitation) or a cheap totalizer $20-30 from amazon to do a measured time rpm static vs rpm moving etc.
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:26 PM   #50
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Thanks. Excuse my ignorance but you mean a flow totalizer placed on the RW intake? Another simple thing I just thought of, too easy really, I am way overdue for a bottom painting. It is clean but growth is heavy and divers are complaining (and charging). Is it possible heavy growth is up in the intake tube where a diver can't get to it? Could that be blocking flow?
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Old 08-07-2017, 05:04 PM   #51
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Its not just impellers on pumps. Cam wear, wear plate grooves add to the pleasure.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:49 PM   #52
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Yep just need a flow totalizer they come from garden hose size to 3" not expensiveput it after the pump. Run the engine for 10 mins at t/over then cruising rpm. Then check under load. It jus confirms flow better than looking over the stern and estimating. Look up the supposed pump output at the given rpm. Although as the rpm increases and the output is not a steady curve , you've got a blockage etc

The easier way of course is to take of the outlet hose stick it in a bucket , start the engine and look at the flow for a min or so. should be a good pressurized flow.
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Old 08-08-2017, 05:56 AM   #53
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Some times folks unknowingly create their own problems.

Refilling a coolant tank with antifreez from the jug , instead of a mixture is one.

Antifreez only has 5/8 the heat transfer of pure water.

Eventually the engine may run hot .

It only takes 30% antifreez or so to give the corrosion protection we all desire.

As most antique engines have a 2 or 3 lb pressure cap , there is no heat protection from the antifreez high boil point..

15 -18 lbs like in a car needs the antifreez to operate over 210F.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:53 AM   #54
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Haven't touched my fresh water cooling system. Opened it up, looked in as the reserve container filled it to the top and then closed it up. It was a very nice, pretty blue. That's all I know about the shape of that part of my fresh water cooling system!

Could this possibly be a thermostat issue? I guess that's a stupid question..of course it COULD be...

Also, not sure on the starboard going from 180 to 190 and staying there. Is that within normal range/operation or should it just stay at 180?
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:49 AM   #55
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Depending on the engine , most folks are pretty happy operating under 200F.

200F is arbitrary but it is below the temp where steam pockets will form in the circulating water .
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Old 08-08-2017, 12:30 PM   #56
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Start with a haul-out. All of this could be due to growth.
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:33 AM   #57
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Hmmm.... going to go back to this thread and tie it into another one I put up. Had the boat hauled, new paint, strainers removed and cleaned etc. All the normal stuff. Also rebuilt my old strainers, covered in another thread which addresses something I noticed after we went back in the water. As I run the engines the water in the strainers goes down to about 1/3 filled. No overheating just low raw water levle at 1800 RPM's or so. So...hmmm...I wonder if this is not a new issue but one that existed prior to the haul out and I just didn't notice it. I wonder if maybe my overheating at WOT is because my going full out increases the vacuum being created or the air leaking or whatever it is in the strainers to the point that the water continues to decrease which of course causes the overheat. Hmmm... this of course adds little to my discussion as I haven't checked it yet but I rarely (as in never) get to have an Ah HA! on this site so had to post something. I mean..it COULD be the cause right? So proud.
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:06 AM   #58
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Sounds like the strainer and thru hull are to small for the strainer.
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:25 AM   #59
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Not sure at this point. However, its a 30 year old boat with same Groco strainers and same Ford Lehman 135's. I am unaware of any past issues and am good friends with the previous owner of 5 years prior. Did the loop twice, Bahamas, nothing from him on it. Of course he gave me a curious look when I told him I tested them out at WOT. "Why would you do that?". Just not sure. I would be more inclined to suspect the RW pumps but...both engines at the same time? Now looking for some lame excuse to break away and go take the boat out and check my theory.
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:09 AM   #60
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Sorry...didn't read the whole thread and don't know if this has been asked yet: has the intake grill/grate against the outside of the hull for the raw water thru hull been partially blocked by being painted over with bottom paint?
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