Bronze vs Stainless steel aesthetics

[Nico]

Hello, I recently purchased a 1990s custom steel hull boat. I noticed that on the internal living areas there is a mixture of both bronze, chrome and stainless steel fixtures (hinges, latches, light fittings, slide bolts, cupboard door knobs). I’m hoping to improve the aesthetics of the interior and i’m wondering if having a mixture of metals within the same interior areas is common? My initial thought was to replace it all with bronze fittings. Should i try to stick to one material only? (i’m not concerned about galvanic corrosion). The interior also has dark stained timber. Externally the majority of the fixtures are stainless steel welded
to the steel hull. I’m leaning towards replacing the internal fixtures with bronze, however i may be confusing the traditional bronze / timber style and applying it to a boat that it doesn’t match or suit. Any comments or feedback is appreciated.

 

[O C Diver]

I would pause and consider the purpose of the chosen metals. Sometimes bronze is chosen in its dark color to be unobtrusive. The very small hinges on some Kadey Krogens are almost unseen probably as to not distract from the fine wood work. Other times, the choice of a metal can be to draw focal attention to the area. A chrome or stainless steel kitchen faucet comes to mind.

You might consider changing some items that are easy to change back, and then see how you like the effect.

Ted

 

[Serene]

And sometimes the material is chosen for its properties depending on the application.

 

[PierreR]

I cringe at stainless being welded to steel. I cannot imagine the welds having integrity. As far as a mix of stainless and bronze. The change could simply be that stainless is readily available and much cheaper than bronze. When repairing something, often times you go with what is available.

 

[PierreR]

From the pictures in your introductory thread the stainless steel railings look welded to a cap rail that is bolted on. I suspect the cap rail is also stainless and not steel. At least that is the story I am telling myself. Stainless welded to steel along with a Gardener diesel and an old salty fisherman just doesn't fit in my head.

 

[Bmarler]

I cringe at stainless being welded to steel. I cannot imagine the welds having integrity. As far as a mix of stainless and bronze. The change could simply be that stainless is readily available and much cheaper than bronze. When repairing something, often times you go with what is available.

What? Dissimilar metals are welded all the time. You just need to know what you’re doing. Choose the right filler, keep the heat input down, etc…
Joining 304 or 316 to mild steel is a cake walk for a skilled welder.

 

[ABfish]

Aesthetically, for your boat, my vote is for bronze.

That's a cool rig you've got there.

 

[Endeavor GB 32]

My plan: 1. Determine what the cost would be. 2. Determine how much time it would take. (Note: both likely to be double or triple your estimate.) 3. Spend the money on fuel. 4. Spend the time boating! That is a beautiful boat and you're overthinking it. Anchor in Bantry Bay or Athol Bay with some cold Tooheys and enjoy life ;-)
Regards,
Scott

 

[PierreR]

What? Dissimilar metals are welded all the time. You just need to know what you’re doing. Choose the right filler, keep the heat input down, etc…
Joining 304 or 316 to mild steel is a cake walk for a skilled welder.

Sure its done all the time but that I am not buying it as good practice on a salt water yacht. A welded hand rail would likely be more than adequate to do the job but as a metallurgist, I would be concerned about crevasse crack corrosion that I could not see around the welds after a number of years. Especially under paint with stainless and carbon steel.

 

[Bmarler]

Sure its done all the time but that I am not buying it as good practice on a salt water yacht. A welded hand rail would likely be more than adequate to do the job but as a metallurgist, I would be concerned about crevasse crack corrosion that I could not see around the welds after a number of years. Especially under paint with stainless and carbon steel.

i've got a fair amount of time in this field as well. i wouldn't be too concerned with crevice corrosion on the topsides with the weld protected by paint. there's no path for water to get in and be stagnant. plus, it's easy enough to check on a semi regular basis by stripping the paint and inspecting the welds if the telltale rust streaks start to appear. you should have ample warning on a topsides assembly more so than a chainplate buried inside a bulkhead.
when you have a steel boat, there are always decisions to be made as to construction methods that won't apply to regular glass or wood boats. the lesser of evils per se. in this instance, the decision is already made, and monitoring is the only thing left to do. just like we all do with our various instances.

 

[Brooksie]

It will take you a long time and a lot of searching and even then, you will not find direct replacements for everything in bronze so you will still have mixed metals to some degree and be plugging and re-drilling holes with all that entails. Much of the good old bronze pieces to be found have been chrome plated and de-chroming is an expensive process. I had 2 Morse controls done and in addition to the time to disassemble and reassemble them the de-chroming was hard to find and, I thought, very expensive.

 

[PierreR]

I have had fair luck removing the chrome from bronze with a wire wheel.

 

[Nico]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I’m leaning towards bronze, but yes, the cost and the amount of work is probably underestimated on my end. My main reason for asking was to double check that i wasn’t making her into more of a frankenstein looking boat. Some of you have the thumps up for bronze so i will run with that. I will start off slowly and replace the barrel bolts with bronze, modernise the joinery knobs with bronze. The internal stainless light fittings seem flimsy, so i plan to replace with bronze LED fittings with the red night light option (but damn those light fittings are expensive).

 

[Nico]

Thanks ABfish

 

[Nico]

I found some traditional brass external navigation lights and bunker lights. I may give them a try.

 

[waterbound]

She's a beauty. I vote for practicality, then preference. For pure looks I like bronze against the woodwork.

 

[SeaStarDF50]

Our 1969 wooden DeFever also has both bronze and stainless interior hardware, along with solid brass. When replacing or adding something new, we've chosen bronze or solid brass when we can find it. We often find them in the salvage bin at a chandlery or house parts salvage supplier, and turn to house restoration products when needed. Sometimes, the specific piece you're wanting is only available on one type of metal. I'm a finicky historic preservationist on land, and maintain original materials and finishes on the boat whenever possible, but haven't been tempted to change out hardware specifically to match; there are always too many other things to do or enjoy on board!


In the US, some purveyors of new bronze and solid brass house hardware are: Kennedy Hardware, House of Antique Hardware, Chowns, and others, but you do have to read the fine print so you're not choosing brass-plated pot metal. Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Doggersbank]

I don’t see any problem with mixing interior hardware metals aesthetically. For example, chrome, nickel plated or stainless steel dome lights with say polished bronze cabinet hinges even aboard a classic trawler.

On deck, any hardware subject to chafe on our boat is 316L stainless steel welded to the mild steel.

 

[Juggerknot]

309L works just fine for this application

I cringe at stainless being welded to steel. I cannot imagine the welds having integrity. As far as a mix of stainless and bronze. The change could simply be that stainless is readily available and much cheaper than bronze. When repairing something, often times you go with what is available.

I desiring to join carbon and stainless, a 309L stick is fine and if your welding abilities permit, their will be good penetration, strength and no porosity.