Bilge pump float switch

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Doodie99

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2021
Messages
131
Vessel Name
Winters Obsession
Vessel Make
Mainship Mark 1
So I have a non functional float switch and I am looking for reliable float switch. Ever since they removed mercury it has become short life switches. Is there anything made to last years?
 
Frequency of switching has a lot to do with life expectancy. If your bilge pump cycles several times per hour or every time the bow rises and falls, it's going to be a wear item either in the switch or wire. For me, setting up and maintaining dry bilge compartments is the best solution. While I test my bilge pump switches every year by adding freshwater to the bilge, they otherwise sit motionless unless something unusual happens.

Ted
 
I rigged mine using relays and diodes. The float sw. does not operate the pump directly.

The float sw. triggers the relay which then connects the pump. The relay can handle much more current than typical float switches. THis way the float sw. is not burned.

The relay has a diode mounted in reverse polarity so the relay contacts see little or no voltage back flash. Done about 20 yrs ago and still works just fine. Yes, I test.

For a low level of water removal I do not depend upon the centrifugal pumps, rather a small diaphragm pump mounted above the bilge with a hose and small bronze strainer on the hose end that is dropped where the water collects. THis one I control manually. It is not intended to be an emergency pump.

I agree with O C Diver, control the water entering the bilge. Repack and adjust packing glands , repair deck leaks, repair hose leaks from other sources.
I do not try for a DRY bilge, just very little water in it.
 
I like the "water witch" switch. Had one that lasted many years in my Mainship.
 
Better yet the 109 by Groco.

NO wires anywhere near the bilge water.

Fully adjustable.

No electronics.
Not affected by soap, oil, or dog hair.

Works in fresh water.

I could go on.
PAR makes a similar switch.
 
Better yet the 109 by Groco.

NO wires anywhere near the bilge water.

Fully adjustable.

No electronics.
Not affected by soap, oil, or dog hair.

Works in fresh water.

I could go on.
PAR makes a similar switch.

I like the idea. Had thought about something similar using commercial HVAC pneumatic pressure switches. It would be pretty easy to change out the micro switch as they age.

Ted
 
Make sure your switch is built to handle your pump. Many bilge pump switches max out at 14 amps. If you use one of these with your 20 amp pump then your switch will be short lived.

I never use the low end Rule switches. I have had good luck with their super switch that is designed for the 20a pumps.
 
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I like the idea. Had thought about something similar using commercial HVAC pneumatic pressure switches. It would be pretty easy to change out the micro switch as they age.

Ted


It's the same switch that is used in millions of dishwashers and washing machines that you can buy for 1/3 but your insurance company may not like it if it doesn't say "bilge pump switch" on the box. One came with my '71 boat and one with my '62 boat and they are both still working. I wouldn't accept a truckload of free Rule switches. If you have a dog aboard, one strand of wet dog hair will keep an electronic switch on. Rainwater (distilled water) won't turn it on and oil makes them unreliable too.
 
If you have deep bilges a float down low with PVC tube pushing up to a float switch up high.
Switch never sees water, dog hair, oil, anything.
Our Rule is likely decades old, never an issue.
 
The Johnson pumps / switches look like a good alternative to Rule. Anyone have experience with the Johnson products?
 
So I have a non functional float switch and I am looking for reliable float switch. Ever since they removed mercury it has become short life switches. Is there anything made to last years?

Ultra Senior or Ultra Junior.

And their optional alarm will wake the dead.

-Chris
 
So I have a non functional float switch and I am looking for reliable float switch. Ever since they removed mercury it has become short life switches.

I have a non-working Rule switch in my fishing boat. Was just about to order a new one but I think I'll remove it and open it up to figure out why it went bad, am curious to know since it's been cycled very few times in its life.

I rigged mine using relays and diodes. The float sw. does not operate the pump directly. The float sw. triggers the relay which then connects the pump. The relay can handle much more current than typical float switches.
Very good idea. In the future as we start seeing people install 48VDC bilge pumps (on 48V banks) this will be even more important. The majority of switches are not rated to 48V, or someone might opt to install a high capacity/amperage pump.

... control the water entering the bilge. Repack and adjust packing glands , repair deck leaks, repair hose leaks from other sources. I do not try for a DRY bilge, just very little water in it.
Yes water should be controlled, but a bilge should always be dry. If you have 6" or even 4" under your packing gland then install a small sump or shower drain and pump any drippings overboard.
 
Very good idea. In the future as we start seeing people install 48VDC bilge pumps (on 48V banks) this will be even more important. The majority of switches are not rated to 48V, or someone might opt to install a high capacity/amperage pump.

The relay has a diode mounted in reverse polarity so the relay contacts see little or no voltage back flash.

Voltage back flash? Can you help me understand that problem? I have a 12 volt system.
 
It looks like we have some great ideas!
Some i have been considering and some are a new idea that makes sense.
I have not seen my boat in the water yet so I am not sure why the float is non functional. My boat has been on land for at least 18 years so i assume the float had some water infiltration.
I appreciate all the input... the depth of the bilge and access is not simple so i will try to setup something that is reliable and fairly easy to setup.
 
@Doodie, doesn’t hurt to conduct a float switch necroscopy. Boat forensics.

Turns out mine had a big crack in the float mechanism, plus years of disgusting bilge muck piled in there. IMG_1282.jpgIMG_1283.jpg
 
Voltage back flash? Can you help me understand that problem? I have a 12 volt system.


DC current in a motor, any winding or coil, produces magnetic energy which is how the motor/coil works. Actually all voltages/currents AC & DC produce a field around the wire in which they operate.

Especially in DC when the current in coil is stopped abruptly, switch, the magnetic energy field has to go somewhere. It produces a counter voltage which can do damage to switches, relays and other controlling devices. That counter voltage can be stronger than the initial supplying voltage by several times.
These voltage spikes are very fast.

These things must be built to withstand that backflash. The other option is to install another device, capacitor, to absorb that backflash and dissipate it over time as heat.
Or
use a diode which conducts only one way and allows that voltage to use the winding of the motor or coil to dissipate the energy as heat.


Infrequent use like your bilge pump gives some leeway for sizing but for frequent operation such as in a production plant it matters.

As a retired electrician I used to deal with this in my work.

In my case I did not expect frequent operation, hope not, but was just a matter of protection for the float sw., needed or not.

I hope my description makes some sense. It has now been a long time and I had to a bit of thinking.
 
If you have deep bilges a float down low with PVC tube pushing up to a float switch up high.
Switch never sees water, dog hair, oil, anything.
Our Rule is likely decades old, never an issue.

Someone posted a great picture of a set up like this. It used two PVC tubes, one larger diameter and one smaller. The smaller tube had a float attached and was free to slide up and down inside the larger tube. The float action moved whatever choice of float switch you attached to the top of the small diameter tube. The only thing remotely near water was the float and some PVC pipe. You could also control how far the float had to move to trigger the pump. Really slick and simple.
 
The Johnson pumps / switches look like a good alternative to Rule. Anyone have experience with the Johnson products?

Johnson makes incredible pumps. Big thumbs up from me. Bilge switches no clue- however I’d buy one based on their pumps. Also- have you considered an electronic switch? No moving parts. And, no. Mercury wasn’t the ‘good il’ days’.
 
Bilge Switch

I use Johnson Electronic Controls switch. No moving parts, small footprint, and pretty much foolproof. Also do not trigger for a fuel oil flood...only water.
 
Johnson Pumps

The Johnson pumps / switches look like a good alternative to Rule. Anyone have experience with the Johnson products?

I have had terrible experiences with Johnson pumps!!! They came on my new Seapiper 35, a high capacity bilge pump and a fresh water pump. With the fresh water pump I went through three of them in 6 months to finally get one to work. The pressure switches are poorly designed and are basically junk! With the bilge pump, within 6 months a 7.5A pump was blowing a 15A fuse. During that time I went through 3 of their bilge pump switches. Dealing with their support group is a nightmare! They are typically a bunch of mindless bureaucrats. With the fresh water pump, with no water available in the boat including toilet, I had to blast through the bureaucrats and get to an understanding person. Since I was somewhat up the east coast with difficult accessibility to communication and to receive things, he understood and did a yeoman's job helping me. However it took 2 new pumps to finally get one to work!! As far as the bilge pump is concerned, I just gave up with the bureaucratic dribble and threw it out and installed a Golden Rule.
 
Bilge pump switch

I have used Water Witch switches on two of my three bilge pumps on my 1979 Mainship trawler. They have both been flawless for over ten years. Other small de watering pump has been replaced three times. Just not enough room where this pump is to incorporate a Water Witch switch otherwise I would have done so.
 
I have both water witch and and ultra smart switch and both are very good and well worth the money. I replaced a basic smart switch with the water witch because the water coming back down out of the hose would bounce the ultra switch on and off….constantly. The water witch and the ultra smart keep the bilge pump on after it senses water to help pump out the residual and does the same when sensing water.
 
+++ ultra pump switches, installed them for 25 years they just don't quit
 
Johnson Products

I have used Water Witch switches on two of my three bilge pumps on my 1979 Mainship trawler. They have both been flawless for over ten years. Other small de watering pump has been replaced three times. Just not enough room where this pump is to incorporate a Water Witch switch otherwise I would have done so.

In the past I have had respect for Johnson products. But at this time I think they have a quality control problem, which they are ignoring. One pump and two water witches came to me DOA!!
 
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