Does there exist a bilge pump that will pump the bilge completely dry?
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mbevins
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That's ok, it was a long anyway
I saw that at the Newport Boat Show a few years ago and was intrigued. The demonstration in the booth was fairly impressive. Looked like a well-engineered system, but their marketing and that web site sucks.
Do you have it on your boat?
HopCar
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jleonard
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A diaphram style bilge pump will get everything except what is in the intake hose. Make that really short and you'll be very close to dry.
That said I get no salt water in my bilge unless I am cleaning the strainers. I have used dripless packing for many years. (Tides Marine lip seal type)
That said I get no salt water in my bilge unless I am cleaning the strainers. I have used dripless packing for many years. (Tides Marine lip seal type)
I love a dry bilge. Water is meant to be kept outside the hull, not in the bilge!
FF
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"I love a dry bilge. Water is meant to be kept outside the hull, not in the bilge!
Unless there is a use for water in the bilge.
On our boat we run the windlass Hyd lines thru the bilge water , about 2-3 inches , rather than add the complexity of a pump, heat exchanger etc.
Not for every boat bit KISS is our goal.
Unless there is a use for water in the bilge.
On our boat we run the windlass Hyd lines thru the bilge water , about 2-3 inches , rather than add the complexity of a pump, heat exchanger etc.
Not for every boat bit KISS is our goal.
FF
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"You do that for cooling purposes on the hydraulic fluid in the lines?"
Yes the boat came with engine driven pump to steer (the wheel is only a fancy wood item connected to a L/R valve.
Adding an auto pilot was done by using 2 12v Vickers valves , only 1/2A to operate , so the AP doesn't work very hard.
When it came time for an anchor capstan the Hyd system folks suggested this as the capstan is not a heavy run time item .
No problems , in 15 years , and I love to anchor out .
Yes the boat came with engine driven pump to steer (the wheel is only a fancy wood item connected to a L/R valve.
Adding an auto pilot was done by using 2 12v Vickers valves , only 1/2A to operate , so the AP doesn't work very hard.
When it came time for an anchor capstan the Hyd system folks suggested this as the capstan is not a heavy run time item .
No problems , in 15 years , and I love to anchor out .
I have just come from the Newport boat show and looked at the Arid system. Interesting but very complex for what it does. I'd almost prefer the Greybeard peristaltic pump, even if it has to be used manually, it does perform the same task for $70 that the Arid bilge system does automatically for some $800 (single hose) to almost $4000 (up to 8 hoses)!
My interest is more along the line of a vacuum system. Now, I simply use my $30 1.5 gallon Shop Vac and empty the thing as needed. It works just fine although it is a bit of a pain in the but to pull out, use, drain and then dry and put away.
The little pump Hopcar referenced would help with the draining part or I keep thinking that I need to design a smaller, simpler version of this...
Willy Vac® - by Wallace Marine Inc.
Not inexpensive but I'd bet that I could come up with a simpler, smaller version that would be better for my use.
I'm thinking about it...
Bruce
My interest is more along the line of a vacuum system. Now, I simply use my $30 1.5 gallon Shop Vac and empty the thing as needed. It works just fine although it is a bit of a pain in the but to pull out, use, drain and then dry and put away.
The little pump Hopcar referenced would help with the draining part or I keep thinking that I need to design a smaller, simpler version of this...
Willy Vac® - by Wallace Marine Inc.
Not inexpensive but I'd bet that I could come up with a simpler, smaller version that would be better for my use.
I'm thinking about it...
Bruce
ranger58sb
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CaptSteve53
Senior Member
Dave/Art,
Duramax have never replied to me after several email inquiries regarding their publicized use of GRAPHITE in the Packing material, as we all are aware Graphite (Carbon) use under water and especially with two dissimilar metals as the shaft (commonly 316 SS) and the cutlass/gland housing (normally Bronze) all combined with warm sea water and now Graphite we have a potential battery AND Galvanic Corrosion and is a definite NO NO!?
Graphite being the most NOBLE element in the Galvanic table(@+.02) with SS @ -0.1 and Bronze @ -0.3 would normally mean both the SS and the Bronze being less Noble will corrode in the presence of Graphite and sea water(the electrolyte)
The further apart the metals are in the Series, the greater the risk of corrosion. Graphite containing gaskets, packing and lubricants/grease have all been responsible for serious galvanic corrosion of copper alloys(Bronze) in sea water and should never be used in under sea water installations.
So this post reminded me of my earlier non-response to my query and have again emailed DURAMAX and will relay there response should they this time reply,
Cheers Steve
Good Luck!!
Propnut
Senior Member
The 1/4" discharge hose can be run to a shower sump or plumbed to go overboard. Timer on and off times are fully adjustable. Less than $50.00 for the system and it works great. I'll post a pic. when I get back to the boat.
Comodave
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I like the diaphragm pump and timer idea.
fryedaze
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I am a gambler. As long as they are cool and don't leak, I am in my happy place. Out of sure out of mind. The shafts aren't going to fall off the boat. I have never adjusted the packing after installation.
Ditto!
FF
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"The further apart the metals are in the Series, the greater the risk of corrosion. "Graphite containing gaskets, packing and lubricants/grease have all been responsible for serious galvanic corrosion of copper alloys(Bronze) in sea water and should never be used in under sea water installations."
If Duramax had a problem , I'm sure they would have noticed in the past few decades of installations.
If Duramax had a problem , I'm sure they would have noticed in the past few decades of installations.
They would stick down into the water flow and be an obstruction. Lower speed/higher fuel consumption.
My usual way of getting water in my bilge is from cleaning it. I have a dripless shaft seal and no shower or condensation directed to the bilge. I normally pump id as far as it will go with the bilge pumps and then finish with a manual pump.
After that, it's either sponge it out or leave the hatches open to let it air dry.
After that, it's either sponge it out or leave the hatches open to let it air dry.
HopCar
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Damn Parks! I sure hope that's a photo shop deal??? Sure looks like your superstructure and bridge.
HopCar
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Damn Parks! I sure hope that's a photo shop deal??? Sure looks like your superstructure and bridge.
That's the real deal. Photo was taken a week ago. Got a call from my Salvage guy, he floated her this morning. He said there were three peacock bass swimming in her bilge!
ranger58sb
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Sigh... but good to hear he's got her up now.
Perhaps the bass were what clogged the bilge pumps?
(Sorry, bad joke...)
-Chris
HopCar
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I'll start a thread about Possum and the hurricane and let you guys know what happens. A surveyor from the insurance company is supposed to look at her today.
There is a really nice looking Ellis 32 listed with the Ellis brokerage. Might be time to up grade.
There is a really nice looking Ellis 32 listed with the Ellis brokerage. Might be time to up grade.
sdowney717
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I use the GFO packing, must have been 10 years of use so far on the same packing, no leaking. Did adjust twice.
