Propane tank replacements

[wkearney99]

Our EB47 has a pair of 10# propane canisters.

WTF are these things made out of that they're so 'ffing expensive to replace? $200-300 for aluminum? I mean, I get economies of scale and B.O.A.T. pricing, but really?

I may have one with a leak. It doesn't leak when screwed closed, but may when it's partially opened while connected to the boat's setup. I catch a whiff of the additive when I have one tank connected, vs no smell with the other one. We don't use the propane regularly, and I don't leave any tanks 'open' to the system. I screw the tank closed after every use. The cabinet for the tanks is outside, in the cockpit and is vented. I'm guessing the leak is just at the shut-off valve of the questionable tank, and that it only leaks enough to smell during the opening/closing of the valve on it. The smell is only at the tank, not at any other point along where the hose runs up to the galley.

I don't have a close-up of the tank connecting setup. It's a 3' length of hose with a regulator and a gauge connected into what looks like a solenoid. The control for which is at the galley down below.

I'm expecting my plan to include replacing the hose/regulator setup that connects a tank to the solenoid. That doesn't appear to be made of anything unusual for portable propane setups.

Anyone done similar replacements and have suggestions?

 

[rsn48]

It's not what the 10 pounders have going for them, it's what they don't have going for them - volume. For every 10 pounders sold, probably 1000 + 20 pounders are sold. Its just a volume (economy of scale) and there are less sold.

 

[wkearney99]

It's not what the 10 pounders have going for them, it's what they don't have going for them - volume. For every 10 pounders sold, probably 1000 + 20 pounders are sold. Its just a volume (economy of scale) and there are less sold.

Sure, I get that (and mentioned as such). I just want to avoid buying one from typical marine suppliers if there's a less egregiously priced option that I've not yet found.

 

[Portage_Bay]

It's steel, not aluminum. But at $63 bucks you can replace them every 5 or so years and still come out ahead. I've gotten steel propane tanks to last more than 10 yrs by occasional pain with Rustoleum spray paint.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Worthin...xMT4on0HfiUYlXgEhA0aAlX9EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. 99. IF the tanks are NOT out of date (good for 10 years and stamped I think), a propane supply place should be able to replace the valve and hydrostatic test it for a LOT less than price of new.

 

[Shrew]

It's steel, not aluminum. But at $63 bucks you can replace them every 5 or so years and still come out ahead. I've gotten steel propane tanks to last more than 10 yrs by occasional pain with Rustoleum spray paint.

The ones in the picture of the original post are aluminum. Tanks come in both aluminum and steel. You can tell the difference because steel tanks are painted (which the ones in the OP's picture are not).

Steel tanks are significantly cheaper, however they are prone to rust and are heavier. Whether either of those factors are import to you is a personal decision.

https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=lpg-tanks&path=-1|2276204|2276252&id=2276262

 

[wkearney99]

IF the tanks are NOT out of date (good for 10 years and stamped I think), a propane supply place should be able to replace the valve and hydrostatic test it for a LOT less than price of new.

Excellent point. I'm guessing these are original to the 2005 production. I don't recall seeing any useful information on them, but I'll double-check.

The key would be finding someone local to do it. Must me someone near Annapolis that handles that sort of thing.

 

[wkearney99]

It's steel, not aluminum. But at $63 bucks you can replace them every 5 or so years and still come out ahead. I've gotten steel propane tanks to last more than 10 yrs by occasional paint with Rustoleum spray paint.

Ah, good find. Those are considerably less. The locker in question is covered, by a wood panel and then a Sunbrella cover over the countertop. But it is vented to the sea air. It wouldn't be getting moved around at all. I'd probably put something under it to avoid leaving a rust stain.

 

[av8r]

One of my horizontal aluminum tanks developed a leak at the valve. A replacement valve and recertification was not expensive but the valve was a special order because of the horizontal configuration.

 

[Rossland]

Don't buy new tanks, get yours rectified, perhaps with a new valve if the old one is leaking.
We had one of our aluminum tanks rectified with a new valve. Cost was about $30, plus the propane fill.

 

[dhays]

FWIW, I have a steel tank. When I replace it, I'll replace with fiberglass so I can easily see how much propane I have in the tank.

 

[Comodave]

In the photo it appears that your propane locker may not be to specs. The specs require a latching lid with a gasket. I don’t see the top in the photo so I don’t know if there is a gasket on it or not. It says the lid must latch tightly. Does yours have latches and a gasket? If it does, my bad but in the photo I don’t see them.

I don’t want to start a big deal over this but I did want you to be aware of the potential problem.



1.12 LOC4TION AND INSTALlATION CYLINDER AND CONNECTED DEVICES
LPG cylinders, cylinder valves, safety devices and regulating equipment shall be secured for sea conditions and readily accessible, and shall be located:
1.12.1 on the exterior of the boat where escaping gases will flow directly overboard, the cylinder valve, regulators, and safety devices shall be in a ventilated location protected from the weather and against mechanical damage, or
1.12.2 in a dedicated locker which shall be: 1.12.2.1 vapor tight to the hull interior, 1,12.22 located above the waterline,
1.12,2.3 constructed of or lined with corrosion resistant materials,
L12.2A
1 12.2.4.1 boat,
equipped with gasketed cover which:
opens directly to the atmosphere outside the
With the appliancc valvcs ofI~ open the cylinder supply valvc. Close the cylinder supply valve. Observe the prcssure gauge rcading. Thc prcssure indicatcd should remain constant for not less than three minutes If any leakage is indicated by a drop in pressure, check the cntire system with a leak detection fluid or detergent solution to locate the leak. Test solutions shall be non~ corrosive and non··toxic. Repairs shall be made beforc operating the system.
NOTES: 1. NEVER USE FLAME TO CllELl( FOR LEAKS!
2. NEVER USE SOLUTIONS CONTAINING AMMONIA. AMMONIA, W/IlCll IS PRESENT IN SOAPS AND DETERGENT ATTACKS BRASS FITl1NGS. UNDETECTABLE AT FIRST, IN A MATTER OF MONTIIS TllESE FITTINGS MAY DEJ7J:..LOP CRACKS AND LEAKS.
APPENDIX FOLLOWS
L12.2.4.2
1.12.2.4.3
opens only from the top,
latches tightly,
is capable of being quickly and conveniently
L12.2.4.4
opened without tools for operating the cylinder valves, testing the system for leakage and viewing the pressure gauge.
1.12.2.S vented at the bottom by a dedicated vent,
Ll2.2S 1 led outboard without pockets through the huH sides to a point lower than the locker bottom but above the waterline,
1.12.2.S.2 located at least two feet distant from any huH opening to the boat interior, and
L12.2.S.3 located at least two feet distant from an engine exhaust tenninus which is below the level of a vent outlet.
1.12.2S4 with a minimum diameter of any component in the vent system not less than 12.S 11l11l (1/2 inch) inside diameter.
1.123 When means of access to the locker or housing is open, the cylinder valves shall be capable of being conveniently and quickly operated and the system pressure gauge dials shall be fully visible.
1.12A Storage provisions for unCOlUlccted reserve cylinders, fiHed or empty, shall be the samc as for thc cylinder in use.
1.12.S Lockers shall not be uscd for storage of any other equipment.

 

[dhays]

The formatting got a bit messed up there Dave making interpreting it all but impossible.

 

[tiltrider1]

His tanks are exterior to the boat and vented to sea, the rest of the regulations do not apply to his situation.

I had a pair of steel tanks in a similar environment. The tanks dated out before they got rusty. I believe the replacement tanks cost me $19 and came with a level gauge that is amazingly accurate.

 

[wkearney99]

In the photo it appears that your propane locker may not be to specs. The specs require a latching lid with a gasket. I don’t see the top in the photo so I don’t know if there is a gasket on it or not. It says the lid must latch tightly. Does yours have latches and a gasket? If it does, my bad but in the photo I don’t see them.

I don’t want to start a big deal over this but I did want you to be aware of the potential problem.

No, it's good to know the regs. Mine are in a tub all their own, in a cabinet located on the aft cockpit. It's vented out the bottom to the open air. The lid doesn't latch, nor is there a gasket. It's just a teak board molded to the shape of the locker. Over which is a sunbrella cover, snug to the edges of the counter. The tanks are always kept closed unless in use. I believe it being outdoors and vented handles the situation, or at least did according to the factory's implementation at the time it was constructed.

I have wondered about adding some sort of hold-down hook for the tanks. Their tub is molded so that each one is held individually (in a number 8 shape). There's no chance of contact between the tanks, even under very sporty sea conditions (well, not unless we capsize, but then it'd be a rather secondary issue).

 

[FF]

If you plan to travel, switching to the 20# tank is a PIA , but the best deal.

In many places like the Bahamas tanks are collected , driven off in a truck, and returned the next day.

You may or may not get YOUR tank back.

In the US or Canada exchanging tanks at a 7-11 or gas station is far easier than taking a taxi to a shop to have have yours filled.

 

[Dwk]

Excellent point. I'm guessing these are original to the 2005 production. I don't recall seeing any useful information on them, but I'll double-check.

The key would be finding someone local to do it. Must me someone near Annapolis that handles that sort of thing.

Try Arundel Gas and Water in Edgewater Md . My experiences have always been positive worth a call.Water Company | Edgewater, MD - Arundel Gas & Water Conditioning

 

[wkearney99]

If you plan to travel, switching to the 20# tank is a PIA , but the best deal.

Tank specs: https://worthingtonindustries.com/g...212-cb5355b27676/Steel-Aluminum-Portables.pdf

#10 aluminum is 15.9H x 10.3D
#20 aluminum is 20.2H x 12.3D
#20 steel is 17.2H x 12.3D

The nearly 5" height increase would be a problem using aluminum. A 1.3" inch increase in height (for steel) might not be too much trouble. Though a 2" greater diameter might be too tight. It's snug in there now, I don't think there's that much wiggle room. And if not, that'd mean cutting out the entire tub for the tanks and having something new fabricated. We don't go through propane fast enough to make that necessary/worthwhile. I'm guessing I could spend a lot of money on individual refilling of our tanks before I'd approach the cost of replacing the tub.

Still, it'd be an interesting thing to measure 'just to be sure'.

 

[wkearney99]

Checked and there's definitely not enough room for the added dimensions of a steel 20#.

 

[Solly]

Maybe try and find out where it's leaking at ?? Glass of soapy water and a paint brush. Look for bubbles at any connections.
Any LPG or propane heating shop should be able to work on it. Not the roadside fill or swap places.

 

[KnotYet]

If you haven't checked the vent screw that is used for filling, give it a firm twist in.

 

[FoxtrotCharlie]

Greetings,
Mr. 99. IF the tanks are NOT out of date (good for 10 years and stamped I think), a propane supply place should be able to replace the valve and hydrostatic test it for a LOT less than price of new.

What Mr. RT said And even if they are over 10 yrs old, a propane shop can recertify them for 5 yr stretches.
Too bad, I just gave away two of these. Tired of trying to find places to fill them. Changed out to steel 20lb that can be exchanged anywhere. Good luck

 

[catalinajack]

Near Annapolis, try Arundel Gas and Water on Route 2 in Edgewater.

Excellent point. I'm guessing these are original to the 2005 production. I don't recall seeing any useful information on them, but I'll double-check.

The key would be finding someone local to do it. Must me someone near Annapolis that handles that sort of thing.

 

[grahamdouglass]

I second the suggestion to switch out to one 20# tank. In the long run it will save you lot of aggravation

 

[dotgone]

i have 2 horizontal aluminum tanks with a gas switch.
I think they are 2.5 punders.
I can send a pic if you like.
they probably need the 'new' valves.
but they do work.

 

[Capt Dan]

Is the enclosure original to the manufacturer of the boat, and was it legal then?
I ask that because it would only pass muster of some surveyors and or insurance companies now.
Lid must have vapor tight gasketed lid and be secured with a hand operable latch.

 

[Comodave]

Is the enclosure original to the manufacturer of the boat, and was it legal then?
I ask that because it would only pass muster of some surveyors and or insurance companies now.
Lid must have vapor tight gasketed lid and be secured with a hand operable latch.

I think that I said that a long time ago but nobody believes it...

 

[BruceK]

The plus of 2 10lb tanks instead of 1 20lb is you can remove and refill the empty one while the second one keeps your stove working. My IG had an OEM(I think) twin tank set up with a tank selector which made switch over simple. There were wooden fitted holders for the 2 tanks, retaining and servicing them as necessary made sense. Fortunately there was a specialist LPG company I could access.

 

[HiDHo]

I had both my 10 lb tanks recertifications and new over fill protection valves installed in 2016 by the local propane dealer. ( see the label ) I also reworked the propane supply OE setup. I ditched the transfer valve and dual hose setup and had a single pig tail made up with the new style tank valve hose connector. It still takes only a minute or two to switch tanks and I eliminated many leak sources on the old setup.

 

[SteveK]

Greetings,
Mr. 99. IF the tanks are NOT out of date (good for 10 years and stamped I think), a propane supply place should be able to replace the valve and hydrostatic test it for a LOT less than price of new.

Great if the price is right. I tried to get recertification and it was more then a new tank filled

If you haven't checked the vent screw that is used for filling, give it a firm twist in.

Good tip, yet here I have yet to see anyone use the vent screw

I second the suggestion to switch out to one 20# tank. In the long run it will save you lot of aggravation

How? a ten lb here is $10 to fill, a 20lb is $20

The plus of 2 10lb tanks instead of 1 20lb is you can remove and refill the empty one while the second one keeps your stove working. ..............

^^^ yeah that