Dripless shaft adjustments

[Capt. Rodbone]

Some of you so kindly give me your time and expertise and I post so frequently you probably feel like you’re on the loop with us!
Here’s my learning curve for today. Noticed yesterday that both shafts which are dripless no longer were. I find it interesting that both have been completely dry for about 1700 miles but started dripping the same day. This morning I read up on what I need to do and commenced to adjusting.

Port shaft seal adjustment went off without an issue. Loosened the outer tightened the inner then tightened the outer. I think that’s what I’m supposed to do and it worked.
Starboard engine a different situation. While attempting to loosen the outer I noticed that both it and what I will call a collar between there and the inner nut we’re all moving. I did manage to make it leak at about twice the pace it had been, which was a little less than a drip per second. I decided to get another tool and have my pipe wrench on the inner one and try to keep it secure while I attempted to loosen the outer with channel locks. As the pictures will show our slip a few times and begin the annoying process of rounding out those corners so I stopped. It wasn’t working anyway.

So now I’m thinking here’s my plan but I’m obviously looking for suggestions.
I have what I thought was an ample supply of various sized vice grips however I don’t have one quite large enough to go over that outer collar. I suspect a bike ride to the ace hardware will allow me to purchase a larger one. A secure grip on the outer while holding back on the inner hopefully will do it.

I also wonder if I should spray it with some penetrating oil or I think last resort tried to use a heat gun to loosen it some?

 

[lwarden]

Those look like traditional packing type shaft seals. Are you sure they are dripless?

 

[O C Diver]

Those aren’t traditionally dripless, but the packaging rope used in them may allow you to make them no drip. Having them drip isn't going to hurt you, but without knowing when they were last repacked, I would not tighten them up to much. A competent yard can repack them with the boat still in the water. Might be a good idea to have them repacked and watch how they adjust them.

Ted

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. l. I agree. Traditional style stuffing box with a water inlet hose. Mr. CR. Well, you're on the right track. Hold aftmost and unscrew foremost. Penetrant won't hurt, IMO.

As I understand it, that type of stuffing box is meant to drip for lubrication and cooling but you may have to add another layer of packing having run it dry for so long. Just a WAG.

 

[DavidM]

Have your yard repack both glands in the water (not a job for the faint of heart) with Gore GFO packing. Once they are bedded in, you should never have to touch them again and no drips.

David

 

[High Wire]

Typically on twin installations, one is left hand threaded and the other is right handed. Make sure you are going the right way.
On my friends boat the LH threads were on the starboard shaft.

 

[Comodave]

I would repack them with Duramax. You can adjust it so it doesn’t drip after the breakin period. Without knowing what packing you have in there now I wouldn’t adjust them to no drips. The packing may be the older type that needs drips to lubricate it.

Then I would buy wrenches that fit so that you will be able to service the log if need be. And don’t use channel locks on them, get either a combination wrench or a large adjustable wrench. They make special packing box wrenches.

 

[kchace]

Good advice above. If those are tight, you won’t be able to loosen with something like channellocks. You could use 2 pipe wrenches, but the correct wrenches would be best.

Ken

 

[C lectric]

Either Gore GFO or Duramax packing will be far better than what you likely have in there. Insist on one or the other and it can become nearly dripless with a few adjustments.

THe hose is to supply an internal cutless bearing with water. If no water that internal cutless will wear out in short order and likely damage the shaft. In some designs once the boat is moving no water will travel back up the shaft tube so the cutless dries out.

Your stuffing boxes are NOT dripless types. THey are the same as mine and require a packing renewed from time to time.

THe front octagon is the nut that holds packing. The back Octagon is the jam nut.

Personally, I use the GoreGFO and the last time I packed was about 10 years ago. When I begin to see some water I tweak the adjustment a small bit and the drips quit.

I also cover where the shaft exits the stuff box. ALL stuff boxes produce a fine spray. That spray can travel rusting and damaging parts nearby. It only takes an old, small fender cut so it can be LIGHTLY clamped to the stationary part of the box. Slit open on the bottom and the spray will accumulate inside and drop into the bilge rather than travel.

It is possible to change the packing in the water.

I suggest that you spray between the nuts so to help loosen the drip on the threaded spud. Also spray at the back base of the locknut and the threads.

I am going to post my tome to read It may help here but also for you to understand how to look after it in the future.
It is not hard.

I made wrenches for mine but a chain wrench may be a better bet , but I have not used for this, or pipe wrenches.
My made wrenches will not chew up the nuts, the pipe and chain wrenches likely will.

Or get a yard to look after it this time and ask to watch.

As for thread direction study the threads that are not covered by the jam nut at the back. They should tell you if the threading is reversed on one shaft. They may not be reverse threaded because as you are now finding out that jam nut holds pretty darn strongly if set properly.

 

[BruceK]

You can buy special wrenches, a very wide opening adjustable spanner, but the version with chain like a motor bike chain grips way better, I found them on ebay, you need 2.
Probably better to get it done by a shipwright or a mechanic, but treating it with penetrating spray first for the stubborn one is a good idea if going DIY.

 

[Bmarler]

Go here and get a set of wrenches: https://www.yorkdesignandfab.com/store/

 

[David Griffiths]

I suggest a penetrating oil, lots of different "brews available" on the thread.
Heat gun won't hurt as you're going to replace the packing anyway, don't make it "stupid hot" though.
Then; 2 hammers roughly equal weight and gently but with purpose, tap with both (of the hammers) on the stuck gland nut (on the flats), on opposite sides (of the nut) and at the SAME time.
Work your way around as much of the circumference of the nut as you can access with both hammers.
Try moving the gland nut. If not moving, put the tools down and gently start hammering again.
Shock the nut loose/break the corrosion?
Slight expansion of the nut?
Works for me. Be careful.

 

[jleonard]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Adjustable-Plumbers-Wrench-16PL0134/304217578

Buy 2 wrenches like this at Home Depot and they will work for the packing nuts.