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Old 06-27-2022, 01:39 PM   #1
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Diver said prop has pink hue

I had the boat cleaned recently by a diver at this new marina in New Orleans. He said everything looked fine except for my shaft zinc being pretty wasted, and he also said the prop has a bit of a pink hue.

Whatís the deal with the pink? Do I have some electrolysis going on?
How does one check for this and how soon does it need to be done? Iím back in Texas.

Also, do I keep using regular zincs in Lake Ponchatrain or do I need to switch to aluminum?
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Old 06-27-2022, 01:41 PM   #2
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If it's in a fresh water lake, definitely switch to aluminum. Zinc anodes generally don't work in fresh water unless you scrub the coating off them frequently (as in every few days).
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Old 06-27-2022, 01:52 PM   #3
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Diver said prop has pink hue

Itís not totally fresh, but brackish. Apparently itís 3.5 ppt vs the Gulf at around 20-30ppt.

My galvanic isolator ground fault light lit up when I plugged into this marina a few weeks ago, but donít know if thatís related. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-27-2022, 01:55 PM   #4
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Itís not totally fresh, but brackish. Apparently itís 3.5 ppt vs the Gulf at around 20-30ppt.
I'd definitely go aluminum in that case. Saves the risk of zinc anodes maybe not working, but the water isn't so pure that you might need magnesium (aluminum will definitely be active enough).
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Old 06-27-2022, 02:03 PM   #5
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Pink hue isn't a great thing but on a slow turning prop, I have seen them last a long time, as long as the problem gets resolved ASAP.

Not sure if stray current can do the same as galvanic.

If the prop hit with a hammer still has a good ring and isn't dull, a good but not perfect answer.

I also have seen prop nuts that didn't look too bad but they would crumble in your hands.

Probably best to haul and get it all check out as well as your zincs (preferred aluminum in your case)/bonding system.
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Old 06-27-2022, 04:55 PM   #6
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If the boats going to be there for awhile, I’d get a corrosion analysis done while you’re in the water. Changing the zincs doesn't fix the problem if there is one. Just saying.
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Old 06-27-2022, 04:58 PM   #7
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If the boats going to be there for awhile, Iíd get a corrosion analysis done while youíre in the water. Changing the zincs doesn't fix the problem if there is one. Just saying.

Yeah I need to find someone to do that. Who does that kind of thing?
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Old 06-27-2022, 05:54 PM   #8
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Try below or ask around. You’ll need someone though who has and knows how to use a silver/silver-chloride electrode to know how your grounds, neutrals and bonding systems are doing.

https://abycinc.org/mpage/findatech
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Old 06-27-2022, 06:02 PM   #9
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Yeah I need to find someone to do that. Who does that kind of thing?
When I was first getting started working for a marine electronics firm in NJ, some guy from NC called, his boat was at Jarrett Boat Works and had an issue that the yard completely screwed up and somehow was referred to me.

If someone though I was an expert that was worth calling over all the other possibilities between NC and NJ...man the industry must have been hurting back then.

My point is that a lot of people claim expertise, but as we all have seen only a handful can actually be trusted or worth what we pay them.

So be careful, from what I still read on the net, there are few that really are experts and I KNOW I am not one of them....but I can spot a BSer.

A lot of people on TF recommend all kinds of service people, from surveyors to mechanics, based on their experiences....but from reading their posts....I just can't accept they have enough experience to know who in the industry is really all that good or bad.

Bottom line.....good luck finding a great tech in this arena...you will need it.
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Old 06-27-2022, 06:43 PM   #10
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Yeah I generally hate hiring people to work on the boat. Iíve had so many bad experiences.

I do have a silver cell, but donít know how to use it. Maybe I can read up and figure it out.
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Old 06-27-2022, 06:56 PM   #11
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Yeah I generally hate hiring people to work on the boat. Iíve had so many bad experiences.

I do have a silver cell, but donít know how to use it. Maybe I can read up and figure it out.
It's not that bad...I used to do mine and somehow the word got out when a few people I helped thought it was a big deal.

I dad some independent instructions for using the cell....but I can't remember if they went with the boat when I sold it.
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Old 06-27-2022, 07:27 PM   #12
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I had that problem. They did Nondestructive testing.... they recommended, buy a new prop. Took it to the yard for a new prop, had them check and clean the bonding system, problem went away.
While you are out of the water, check the shaft zincs. Remove the shaft zincs, brighten the area on the shaft and the inside of the zincs then, reattach the zincs
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Old 06-27-2022, 08:08 PM   #13
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Decent article by Steve D on corrosion. He mentions dezincification which is what you're suffering from. You will want to check your shaft too.

https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/u...osion-mystery/

Good luck.

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Old 06-27-2022, 10:22 PM   #14
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Definitely check Steve Ds articles. You need a marine electrician that is ABYC certified in corrosion control, not an easy thing to find. I bought a silver half cell from Boatzincs.com. It came with pretty simple instructions. I would only use aluminum anodes wherever you boat, because they are good everywhere. That way there is no question if you have the proper anode, with aluminum you do have the proper anode wherever you boat. And aluminum anodes are better for the environment than zinc anodes.
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Old 06-27-2022, 10:26 PM   #15
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Hey Dude:

I'd be concerned about that ground fault light.

This article explains what a galvanic isolator does in very clear terms.

https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice...tors-explained

The article also notes that if your galvanic isolator is old, you need to have it tested:

"If your boat is plugged into a dock regularly, you need a galvanic isolator (or an isolation transformer). If you have an older boat with an isolator installed, you should have a marine electrician test it to ensure that it is functioning properly and that it meets current standards that apply.

Early isolators had inherent shortcomings that can make them unsafe. The problem is that you wonít have any idea whether it is functioning without testing the unit properly. If in doubt, get a qualified marine technician to test it or consider replacing with a new fail-safe unit."

Cheers,
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Old 06-27-2022, 10:30 PM   #16
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If your isolator is old, donít even bother testing it just put a new one on. The older ones have to have the wiring disconnected to test, real PITA. The newer ones that meet ABYC have to have an indicator to show that they are working or not.
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Old 06-27-2022, 10:52 PM   #17
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I had an alleged marine electrician come by and look at it briefly two weeks ago, but he said he was busy and would have to come back. Never heard back from him.

Think I could DIY this? Watched a video and didnít seem to hard to wire it up.

Is this a good replacement?

https://www.promariner.com/en/p/2207...solr-FAIL-SAFE
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Old 06-27-2022, 11:52 PM   #18
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That one will do 2 30 amp inlets. It is very simple to install. If access is good probably less than 20 minutes.
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:11 AM   #19
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Thanks. I have two 30 amp inlets. Will get it ordered.
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:14 AM   #20
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I had the pink prop too, not a good color for a Mans trawler

dezincification which is what you're suffering from.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mvweebles View Post
Decent article by Steve D on corrosion. He mentions dezincification which is what you're suffering from. You will want to check your shaft too.

https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/u...osion-mystery/

Good luck.

Peter
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