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Old 09-22-2019, 07:33 PM   #21
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I have heard some had some diffiuculty with removal bu I had no issue.
I think one key is to apply on a clean surface and to apply sparingly vs too heavy.
I use a swirl remover w/ a light cut pad for prep and that leaves a nice clean shine. The Polymer goes on easy and should be a thin coat that dries to a light haze that seemed to remove easy unless there were heavy streaks.
I have tried several polymers on boat, car & motorhome and like them all and don't see a significant difference between them.
Good luck - report back if,when you do any comparisons.
A very nice job & outcome no matter what you finish it off with.
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Old 09-23-2019, 04:03 AM   #22
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Bacchus,
To tell you the truth I never thought I would be able to get the hull to shine anywhere near the results I'm getting, so I haven't thought that far ahead . I sure do want it to last, so I'm willing to try it. I read a few reviews this morning saying they had trouble with it leaving a slight hazy finish, but I'm guessing you had no trouble with that?
My wife bought the meguiars yesterday because I told her I wanted a cleaner/wax just to make sure I got all of the 2000 residue off the hull. I may be able to see a very small difference in the shine after applying the meguiars, but it is probably just removing the last of the polish haze.
Charlie will be on the hard for quite awhile because as you can see in the pictures I need to change the rub rail and refinish all the teak. So I have plenty of time and will order some of the gelcoat labs sealant and let you know how it does. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate any and all ideas.
Good result CR, a rewarding feeling seeing that shine. I find cleaning the compound out of the wool pad helps a lot with hazing, every couple of hours give
the pad a good blasting with a high pressure washer or hose until you canít see
any residual compound left. Flick as much excess water out of the pad by hand, then fit it back onto the machine, standing upwind and holding as far away from yourself with pad horizontal, turn on the machine to max revs until no more spray, then keep polishing.
If you canít avoid hot sun, use an atomising water spray bottle to keep the cutting compound from drying out too quickly.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:12 AM   #23
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Southern boat,
I find I have to go thru the pad cleaning ritual about ever 15/20 min. I have completly destroyed 2 pads already. I'm working on the shady side of the boat but still I need to spray lots of water on the area being worked in the florida heat. Plus at the higher RPMs the water gets used up or flinged out pretty fast. I have set the small spray bottle aside and have gone to using a pump up landscaping sprayer instead.
Thanks
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Old 09-24-2019, 04:27 AM   #24
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Southern boat,
I find I have to go thru the pad cleaning ritual about ever 15/20 min. I have completly destroyed 2 pads already. I'm working on the shady side of the boat but still I need to spray lots of water on the area being worked in the florida heat. Plus at the higher RPMs the water gets used up or flinged out pretty fast. I have set the small spray bottle aside and have gone to using a pump up landscaping sprayer instead.
Thanks
It may depend on how you are getting the compound/polish onto the hull sides. Are putting the polish directly onto the wool pad or applying it to the boat with a round foam applicator pad?
I find putting a small amount onto the applicator pad, covering an area of approx 4ft x 2ft in small circular motions, then buffing from one edge to the other, like mowing the lawn. You miss nothing, itís nice and even with equal amount of polish to all areas, with minimum waste. If itís heavily oxidised, do the same area again until you are happy with the result.
Pour the liquid compound/polish from the bigger container into a small plastic sauce bottle for easy handling.
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Old 09-24-2019, 06:58 AM   #25
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The instructions for this compound wants it to be painted on surface to be buffed using a chip brush. This compound is a paste in a gallon bucket and is very firm, especially the 1000 grit. Then you are to mist the compound and the pad with water and to keep it moist during the polishing process using a high rpm. I think the pad getting clogged so quickly is due, at least in part to the extreme chalky state of the surface.
But I will try it your way and see if it helps, I'll try anything once.

Thanks
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:43 AM   #26
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Scott... Very nice work and impressive results.
Just curious whether you notice and difference between the 2000 and the Meguires cleaner wax?
My impression from reading about the Meguires cleaner wax is it's more of a cleaner/light polish than a durable surface protector.
I've had very good results w Gelcoat Labs polymer sealant and have tried it against the Meguires and feel it has much better durability.
Having done all that prep work You might consider adding a coat of a straight polymer sealant/protector to provide better durability. If not convinced it would be interesting to do some obvious areas as a true head to head comparison.
"I've had very good results w Gelcoat Labs polymer sealant and have tried it against the Meguires and feel it has much better durability."
Exactly our experience over many years as well.
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:53 PM   #27
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The instructions for this compound wants it to be painted on surface to be buffed using a chip brush. This compound is a paste in a gallon bucket and is very firm, especially the 1000 grit. Then you are to mist the compound and the pad with water and to keep it moist during the polishing process using a high rpm. I think the pad getting clogged so quickly is due, at least in part to the extreme chalky state of the surface.
But I will try it your way and see if it helps, I'll try anything once.

Thanks
Ah, I see, I was thinking a sloppy liquid compound, which I was referring to. You would want to get the mixtures just right to keep everything even, it may not suit an OCD operator like me
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:34 AM   #28
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I have ordered the sealant from gel coat labs and looking forward to seeing how it applies and holds up in the Florida sun
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Old 09-25-2019, 02:08 PM   #29
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Actually I use F 11. Can only get it online and itís a bit pricey but boy do I love it!
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Old 09-26-2019, 08:59 AM   #30
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Ah, I see, I was thinking a sloppy liquid compound, which I was referring to. You would want to get the mixtures just right to keep everything even, it may not suit an OCD operator like me
I have purchased a different brand of 100% wool buffing bonnets in a 5 inch size for working above the rub rail. This brand has a curved thin flexible hook and loop backing pad. I am not sure why, but this pad does not seem to be clogging up so far. And the curved outside edge works very well on the edges of the inset area.
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Old 09-27-2019, 12:54 PM   #31
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I’ve used the Aqua Buff on an old blue hulled Bayliner and it really brought the color back.
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Old 09-27-2019, 12:56 PM   #32
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Buffing Gelcoat

The results speak for themselves, looks really good and most likely a lot of work. I am doing the Gelcoat on my 55 Californian now and it is a massive undertaking.

Since I keep her near some pretty impressive multi million dollar yachts I have discovered what the pros are using for these $10 - $20 million dollar yachts. The product is SeaShield and is a 3 step process of Cut, Polish, and Wax. Here is the link.

https://sea-shield.com/
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Old 09-27-2019, 02:17 PM   #33
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You would be better off using a dedicated wax. Cleaner wax has grit in it, and the “2 in 1” waxes don’t last nearly as long as dedicated waxes. If you like Maguiar’s products, I suggest their Flagship Premium wax. If you aren’t picky about brands, Collinite 885 Fleetwax (comes in a tub) is the best that I know of and will last a year or more, about twice as long as a regular wax. You might get a couple months out of the cleaner wax.
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Old 09-27-2019, 04:28 PM   #34
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Iíve used the Aqua Buff on an old blue hulled Bayliner and it really brought the color back.
After I'm done with the NT I am going to try the same products on my 20' Bayliner Trophy. Its white and from the early 90s but not as chalky as the NT. And thankfully no where near as big.
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Old 09-27-2019, 04:33 PM   #35
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You would be better off using a dedicated wax. Cleaner wax has grit in it, and the ď2 in 1Ē waxes donít last nearly as long as dedicated waxes. If you like Maguiarís products, I suggest their Flagship Premium wax. If you arenít picky about brands, Collinite 885 Fleetwax (comes in a tub) is the best that I know of and will last a year or more, about twice as long as a regular wax. You might get a couple months out of the cleaner wax.
I plan on using a better wax and a sealer in a comparison when I get the whole hull buffed out.
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Old 09-28-2019, 07:20 PM   #36
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I blew out a shoulder too, same old story years of exercise and abuse. I was turned onto a book by a friend and the basic exercises really made a difference in my shoulder health! "The 7 minute shoulder solution"... cheap and may salvage what you've got left. Hull looks great btw.

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Thanks cig

I'm going to be real careful with the shoulders because I have already had my right rotator sewn back together and in a sling for 6 weeks. I can feel the left one is not holding on by much and will be next under the knife. Most of that damage was done in the many years of going to the gym 5 days a week.


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Old 09-28-2019, 08:23 PM   #37
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I will have to check that out,
Thanks
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Old 09-28-2019, 10:44 PM   #38
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You bet, certainly...
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Old 09-29-2019, 07:11 PM   #39
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Capitaine,
+1 for the Collinite Fleetwax (paste). It protects well and still beads up (water) at the one year mark. If applied properly (the easy way) it is easy to use (almost like liquid wax). Apply it (by hand) in small areas at a time after first using a spray bottle to wet (mist) the area. Allow it to dry to about 60-75% dry then remove the wax by hand with a microfibre cloth. DO NOT USE THE POWER BUFFER. Doing it by hand will leave a good level of protection.

See Rod Collins article on gelcoat care on his website: marinehowto.com.
It is a lot of work, so you will want the best protection possible so as to minimize "next time".
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Old 10-01-2019, 06:32 PM   #40
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It looks fantastic. I need to do this too and have taken onboard all the advice. I love this forum. I was wondering what type of sander is best. Iíd like a cordless one with a back up battery. Thanks. Sue
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